Forum Discussion
D_E_Bishop
Aug 06, 2018Explorer
Our first RV was a 1990 Bounder with a 1989 P30 engine. The engine started and ran very smooth at LOW speed, then it would stall. I was raised by a guy who as a teenager was fixing farm equipment, trucks and cars for a living, I learned a lot from him, including what a lack of fuel stall felt and sounded like..
When the Bounder started with this lack of fuel problem, being a little intimiddated by working on the engine and not having space at home or anywhere else, I took it th several, "RV mechanics" for repair. They all dianosed the problem as "electrical", I kept telling them it was a "fuel" problem. When four experienced and schooled RV mechanics failed to find an electrical problem, I turned to RV.NET and Youtube to find the problem. Those rv hacks were right, it was an electrical problem with the oil pressue/priming relay. So now I know not to argue with the experts, after all their training and experience, they couldn't figure out how to test for fuel pressure and flow under real life use.
It cost me about $75.00 in equipment to build a piece of test equipmennt that allowed me to drive around and watch the fuel pressure and find out when it drop off. I still have 35 feet of HP fuel hose and the pressure guage and quarter inch brass hose tee, so in emergency, I've got somme spare hose and a tee.
The point is, "RV MECHANICS" aren't any smarter or better informed that a lot of small shop guys and in many (most even) cases not as well informed and probably charge less to work on your chassis problems.
When the Bounder started with this lack of fuel problem, being a little intimiddated by working on the engine and not having space at home or anywhere else, I took it th several, "RV mechanics" for repair. They all dianosed the problem as "electrical", I kept telling them it was a "fuel" problem. When four experienced and schooled RV mechanics failed to find an electrical problem, I turned to RV.NET and Youtube to find the problem. Those rv hacks were right, it was an electrical problem with the oil pressue/priming relay. So now I know not to argue with the experts, after all their training and experience, they couldn't figure out how to test for fuel pressure and flow under real life use.
It cost me about $75.00 in equipment to build a piece of test equipmennt that allowed me to drive around and watch the fuel pressure and find out when it drop off. I still have 35 feet of HP fuel hose and the pressure guage and quarter inch brass hose tee, so in emergency, I've got somme spare hose and a tee.
The point is, "RV MECHANICS" aren't any smarter or better informed that a lot of small shop guys and in many (most even) cases not as well informed and probably charge less to work on your chassis problems.
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