Forum Discussion

Ivylog's avatar
Ivylog
Explorer III
Nov 25, 2018

I've changed my mind about solar..900W solar install.

Over the years I’ve chosen to buy diesel instead of solar as the payback was in decades, not years; BUT times change...cost of solar less than $1/Watt. We dry camp often during the summer and by going all LED (lights and TVs) with a residential refrigerator, I've gotten my generator run time down to 1.5 hours/day...$3 of diesel so cheaper than solar as we are only half timers.

We snowbird for 3-4 months in SE Fla each winter and I’ve signed up for FPL’s (Fla Plunder & Loot) time of use program. I’ll use the MH's batteries each morning when the price/KW goes up (batteries will be fully charged on the night time rate). Hopefully, during the day, the solar I'm installing will be enough to recharge the batteries from making breakfast and run our power usage. I can always turn the power back on to top them off, before the 6PM higher rate starts or if we need AC briefly in the afternoon:

My goal is to cut my $80/month electric in half, saving me $160/winter which will pay for enough diesel to go 400 miles or 100 hours of generator time when we boondock and have to run the AC.

Just trying to help out those that say solar is the only way to go as driving a Prius or saving $160/winter with solar is not much of a offset when you have a BIG energy hog MH.
  • Ivylog wrote:
    Over the years I’ve chosen to buy diesel instead of solar as the payback was in decades, not years; BUT times change.

    We snowbird for 3-4 months in SE Fla each winter and I’ve signed up for FPL’s (Fla Plunder & Loot) time of use program. I’ll use the MH's batteries each morning when the price/KW goes up (batteries will be fully charged on the night time rate). Hopefully, during the day, the solar I'm installing will be enough to recharge the batteries from making breakfast. I can always turn the power back on to top them off, before the 6PM higher rate starts or if we need AC briefly in the afternoon:

    My goal is to cut my $80/month electric in half, saving me $160/winter which will pay for enough diesel to go 400 miles or 100 hours of generator time when we boondock and have to run the AC.

    Just trying to help out those that say solar is the only way to go as driving a Prius or saving $160/winter with solar is not much of a offset when you have a BIG energy hog MH.


    Dick,
    Will be interesting to see how you do on the PayBack Calculations :)

    8 - 10 nights with A/C and the Generator and you lose the year - think the Prius is the better PayBack - :)

    But it's the thought that counts - Now if you could get the Prius as the Electric Generator for the Coach - That might just be a real Saver.

    Just messing with you, Hoping you had a great ThanksGiving and enjoy the Winter in Warm Sunny Florida.

    Set Up Looks/Sounds great!

    Bill
  • Ivylog's avatar
    Ivylog
    Explorer III
    There was some concern (not by me) that I needed to hold the 26 lb panels down when traveling. My roof is unusual with the raised side rails and the front and back caps are higher than the roof. I have added a 2"X 8" triangle in front of the first panel to keep air out although that far forward it's probably in a low pressure area...no lift and protected from the 70 mph winds.

    There is also a 1" opening at the top and bottom of the panels so doubt there is enough pressure under the panels to lift them up. I'll put some small pieces of paper under the bottom of the supports and if they do not blow out from under...no problem and no cord needed.

    I already knew the aerodynamic of a brick but here is a good wind tunnel test of a bus. Little or no wind at the roof on the front half of the bus. The turbulence at the back concerns me some although my roof is unusual with raised areas at the front and back so not sure if there will be any turbulence at the sunken roof level at the back.
    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_NPNiyR5cWo


    For those worried about the panels lifting up, I decided to run a cord from the 2x8 triangle to Eye bolts under the panels and a cord to the roof for every 2 panels to hold them down. Also added 2 more fixed panels for a total of 900W.



  • Ivylog's avatar
    Ivylog
    Explorer III
    I recently bought 10 102W First Solar series4 thin film panels ($550) but only have room for 7 along drivers side of my roof. They are 80V and 1.5A so I’m planning on a 60A Outback Flex Max mppt controller. Making my own tilting mounts fastened to the top of the raised rail on my 08 Navigator. Should have a little over $1000 when finished.

    At $1/Watt for the panels and controller I might have a 3 year payback as half timers and going to time of use power.

    I needed 2’ X 4’ size panels (100W) to fit along the drivers side of the MH. I realize these are not your normal mono cell panels, they are thin film. Here are the specks:
    First Solar series 4 thin film solar panels:
    NOMINAL VALUES FS-4110-3
    Nominal Power6
    (-0/+5W) PMPP (W).......... 110.0
    Voltage at PMAX VMPP (V).... 67.8
    Current at PMAX IMPP (A).... 1.62
    Open Circuit Voltage VOC (V) 86.4
    Short Circuit Current ISC (A)1.82
    Module Efficiency % ........16.7