Lazy Daze Class C

ron.dittmer wrote:
I NEVER email due to the flooding of spam.

Ron, way off topic but maybe of some help when buying/selling a used RV ... there is a way to make one's email what it used to be.

I usually read email on my laptop using Microsoft Outlook, which fetches any new emails through my account on my email provider's server each time I open Outlook. Doing this I can block spam two ways:

1. By choosing to block any particular sender, forever, with a tool right in Outlook.

2. By instead logging into my account at my email provider and using their tools to block forever any particular sender ... or I can also use my provider's tools to block an entire Internet domain forever.

I use method 2. most of the time so that spam never again appears on my provide's server and hence, in emails fetched from there by Outlook. Eventually over time I've blocked so many senders and spam domains that, now whenever I log on to Outlook I get only a clean assortment of emails from friends and businessis that I deal with.

It takes awhile to get everything blocked. As would be expected, the domain blocking tool available through my email provider's account is especially powerful.

I use email whenever available all the time and prefer it over all other electronic methods for personal and business (plus hardcopy backup) communications, but I did have to solve the spam problem. I learned "real typing" in high school and abhor using the little tiny screens, abbreviated word coding, and hunt-and-peck typing methods one must use on cell phones/smart pads/smart phones and hence use them only rarely when away from the latptop.

P.S. #1: I'm about to pull the trigger on a satellite tracking, rescue, and two-way texting device for use on RV trips in remote areas with no cellular access - so I guess I'll have to accept hunt-and-peck for emergency use - but of course hope I never have to. ;)

P.S. #2: We also have a home phone system with push button call blocking, so eventually over time we have nearly stopped all junk calls coming in on our home phone.

I always have something for sale on CL. I NEVER email due to the flooding of spam. I include ONLY my cell phone for text and talk only.

I keep my garage door closed. Every pick-up stays outside with rare exception.

DrewE wrote:

Farmboy666 wrote:

Almost everybody with a vehicle for sale covers the plate if they are smart. No plate doesn't necessarily mean not drivable, could mean not using it so why register and pay tax, insurance. Maybe that's why they are selling it.

Out of curiosity, why? What harm can befall from having the plate visible? People can look up who you are and probably what your mailing address is, but that's not secret information and they'll undoubtedly find that out anyhow if you sell it.

Most people don't cover up their license plates when they have their vehicles parked in e.g. Wal-Mart parking lots. Why cover it up or obscure it for Craig's List?

At any rate, I'm sure there are indeed many reputable people selling vehicles on CL with obscured or removed plates, but it's still a red flag to me as most everything I've seen that have clearly been a scam has had the plate obscured or removed from the pictures, and many or most that appear legitimate show a plate (though sometimes with the numbers blurred or blocked). I do try to verify that the plate is for the same state that the vehicle is supposed to be in, or at least something reasonably close.

One reason is you may not want somebody to know where you live or get your phone number. Lots of CL adds only give a CL email contact. I don't have a problem giving a phone number myself but if I sell something on CL I will meet somewhere like a parking lot. Lets say your selling your car, potential buyer comes to your house with no intention of buying but to see what you have in your garage worth stealing.

Farmboy666 wrote:

Almost everybody with a vehicle for sale covers the plate if they are smart. No plate doesn't necessarily mean not drivable, could mean not using it so why register and pay tax, insurance. Maybe that's why they are selling it.

Out of curiosity, why? What harm can befall from having the plate visible? People can look up who you are and probably what your mailing address is, but that's not secret information and they'll undoubtedly find that out anyhow if you sell it.

Most people don't cover up their license plates when they have their vehicles parked in e.g. Wal-Mart parking lots. Why cover it up or obscure it for Craig's List?

At any rate, I'm sure there are indeed many reputable people selling vehicles on CL with obscured or removed plates, but it's still a red flag to me as most everything I've seen that have clearly been a scam has had the plate obscured or removed from the pictures, and many or most that appear legitimate show a plate (though sometimes with the numbers blurred or blocked). I do try to verify that the plate is for the same state that the vehicle is supposed to be in, or at least something reasonably close.

Farmboy666 wrote:
Almost everybody with a vehicle for sale covers the plate if they are smart.

I remove the plate to display the vehicle like a dealer does. Removing the plate also displays bumper-fade (or lack of it) when applicable.

The license plate is one's most publicly displayed information. I can't worry about such things. I wouldn't get through life if worrying about that. If you look at my internet pictures of our motorhome, you will see our licence plates in a few of them. I never checked, but it is conceivable you might also get a glimpse of our house number, maybe even the street sign at the corner in a picture here or there. I could go nuts over such matters, so much that I would turn into an internet recluse, lurking only in the shadows instead of living life.

We had a friend in her latest years. She refused to tell us her age. She also never touched a computer. I said I could find out a lot about her in less than 15 minutes, including her age. She was shocked how much data about her was out there for the world to read. A similar outcome with my elderly uncle. That was some years ago when there was more free internet look-up tools. Those great tools I used then are now pay-for-use.

Perhaps the plate was transferred to a new mh.

Dusty

DrewE wrote:

Floridastorm wrote:

wolfe10 wrote:
It always raises a red flag when I see a vehicle for sale with NO LICENSE PLATE.

Be sure to confirm ownership before going further.

Yes. In Florida one must have a Title to show ownership. No title. No buy.

Meanwhile in Vermont (and at least some of the other New England states), they don't issue a title for a vehicle that is more than 16 years old.

I do agree though that showing no plate in a CL ad is a red flag. Often a little bit of googling will show the exact same vehicle supposedly for sale in several different cities in different corners of the country with identically worded ads. Other times it may not have a plate because it's not drivable without a lot of work (though usually that case is rather more obvious from the pictures and description).

Almost everybody with a vehicle for sale covers the plate if they are smart. No plate doesn't necessarily mean not drivable, could mean not using it so why register and pay tax, insurance. Maybe that's why they are selling it.

wolfe10 wrote:
It always raises a red flag when I see a vehicle for sale with NO LICENSE PLATE.

Be sure to confirm ownership before going further.

What does license plate have to do with ownership? I have 3 trucks with no plate. Not being registered t drive on the road has nothing to do with having a title.

fleetwoodjambo wrote:
Because it sold I can no longer see the add or what the price was, but if it was under 10K and all appliances worked and it started and drove, you cant expect a perfect deal. These are RV's and stuff is prone to go wrong, especially on used/older ones, but you have to know that going into it. Especially if they don't get used often, the previous owner may not know the water pump leaks, or certain lights in the coach don't work, but you take it out on the first trip and find this out. If you buy cheap you have to expect cheap and hope for the best, if you want recourse for issues that arise, pay more and fiance through dealer. I learned the hard way by buying private party as a mechanic likely wont catch everything, but could not afford new. I realized before buying that the older it is the more things will eventually need to be replaced no matter the make, but unfortunately you often only find out what needs fixing by using it. I would avoid low mileage older ones that rarely get used, not always the best deal.

I've often wondered what old or older means in the RV world. Especially motor homes and even more especially Class C's. Would it be the 1980's, 90's, or even the earlier 2000's? My State Farm Agent will finance a 2011 and newer for 120 months. Will finance a 2003 to 2010 for 48 months. Interest rate is 5 to 6% depending upon year. That kind of gives me a ballpark idea that anything older than a 2003 is problematic. Anything 2011 to new is much less problematic. Of course an older unit can always be pristine and a new unit can always be junk. Good Sam Extended Service Agreements are written for units that are no more than 12 years old which would be 2006.

Also, since leaking is I believe the most major concern with an RV. How in the world does a good mechanic go about checking the entire unit for leaks? I imagine it's a step by step process that takes quite a bit of time. What I would do, first thing, is to bring out a hose and run it over the unit for 20 minutes or so. Or is this a redundent measure?

Because it sold I can no longer see the add or what the price was, but if it was under 10K and all appliances worked and it started and drove, you cant expect a perfect deal. These are RV's and stuff is prone to go wrong, especially on used/older ones, but you have to know that going into it. Especially if they don't get used often, the previous owner may not know the water pump leaks, or certain lights in the coach don't work, but you take it out on the first trip and find this out. If you buy cheap you have to expect cheap and hope for the best, if you want recourse for issues that arise, pay more and fiance through dealer. I learned the hard way by buying private party as a mechanic likely wont catch everything, but could not afford new. I realized before buying that the older it is the more things will eventually need to be replaced no matter the make, but unfortunately you often only find out what needs fixing by using it. I would avoid low mileage older ones that rarely get used, not always the best deal.