LED Tail light upgrade

I agree that the flash rate may be different, but it will be adequate; an exact load match is not necessary. You just need enough load to prevent a "hyperflash" (BCM error) or "no flash" situation. In fact, every car model out there has a slightly different flash rate, so.... However, the solid state flasher is obviously a much better solution, as it would be unaffected by the number of LED and/or incandescent bulbs in the circuit and whether you are trailering or not.

BTW, LED bulbs have multiple LEDs oriented at various angles; combined with reflector housings, viewing angle is not typically an issue either.

If the resistors draw less current then the flash rate will be different. The speed of the lighting may be faster but in order to get brighter most LED's project a narrower beam so the visibility drops off faster as you move to the side. They do however last much longer and are much better at resisting vibration.

samven1 wrote:
If you get resistors you negate all the advantages of the LED bulbs. They still draw more current and the resistors can burn out just like the old bulbs.

A single resister for each side is STILL less current than the original incandescent bulbs. However, less current is only important while parked with the engine off. While driving, your vehicle is charging anyway. Therefore, the advantage of LEDs in running, brake, and turn signals is brightness, faster response, and long life...not necessarily less current.

The LED's take such a low current that they will light from just stray current on the ground. The original flasher works with a strip of heat sensitive wire that makes a connection when the flashers are off. When you hit the turn signals, current is applied to the flasher and the bulb lights but the wire gets hot and curls and the circuit is broken then it cools and makes a connection again and the bulb comes back on. Needless to say the flasher is tuned to blink at a rate that is set by the wattage of the bulb. The LED's dont draw the same current and you either have to install resistors that draw the additional current or get a solid state flasher that will work with any bulb. If you get resistors you negate all the advantages of the LED bulbs. They still draw more current and the resistors can burn out just like the old bulbs. If you get the solid state flasher the LED's draw lower current and if you ever hook up a trailer with lights they will adjust to the combination of LED's and standard taillights.

Built-In Resistor, maybe?

Yes there are flashers for led, I got mine on ebay $7.00

I read someplace that there is a SPECIAL flasher required for LED's. Maybe on one of the light sites, cant remember. Check recon lights they may have better info.

Bargman like this?
I installed those on our 2003 Escapade on Ford E450. I wanted something that used hard connections to the coach wiring, not plugs, adapters, etc. But I was disappointed that I had to marry the individual lights together before connecting to the coach wiring. In other words, I expected Bargman to have already connected the segments so I had only one Stop/Turn, one Running, One Backup, and One Ground per assembly.
Our lights flashed too fast too. I'd wanted to add clearance/turn signal lights to the sideview mirrors. Was planning to buy $40 LED "Lollipop" lights but I was afraid I'd still need resistors, so I got $10 incandescent ones and the flashing came out right.
But back to your situation. My best guess is that you could have mis-connected the segments of the new lights and created a short or ground path.
Or, does the chassis use the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to flash the signals? Just thinking if a computer module is involved, he situation could be a little more complicated.
But, then, it WORKS. If it works day and night, brake on or off, then maybe time to set curiosity aside.