Leveling
We just replaced our 5th wheel with a 29' B+. Most of the time we camp at State, County of National Parks which are often not level. My recent experience involved needing to raise the front and one si...
Forum Discussion
I made five 3-step wood leveling blocks (using 2X6 boards) and carry them along with three other 2X6 wood pieces. This allows me to do a worst case three-point leveling height adjustment of up to about 6 inches. I need five of the 3-step blocks for the worst case situation of raising all four rear duals and one front tire.
"How" to do a three-point leveling is a bit detailed to explain clearly. I've learned to do it by figuring out and estimating how much to raise the whole front or whole rear along with how much to raise the RV at the same time from side-to-side. For example if at the same time the rear of the RV should be raised and whole driver's side of the RV should be raised: I use four of the 3-step blocks to raise the rear, but also put a piece of 2x6 under the front edge of the two 3-step leveling blocks on the driver's side rear duals and one 2-6 under the front driver's side tire.
As I pull forward onto all the blocks, the rear of the RV raises and the left (driver's) side of the RV raises - all at the same time. I'm watching two leveling gages mounted 90 degrees to each other - one on the dash and one on the driver's side door - as I pull forward. It took awhile after I owned the RV to learn how to do this - but after eventually getting good at the estimating part I can now pull off a 3-point leveling pretty fast.
We have a small Class C so we wind up a lot in the older campgrounds designed and built years ago when tent camping out of cars was the most popular. Hence the RV usually gets parked in the "car spot", which is often very much off level. Where the tent is supposed to be is often the only level part of the campsite - which does us no good. I also have to do a lot of 3-point leveling when we're out boondocking.
"How" to do a three-point leveling is a bit detailed to explain clearly. I've learned to do it by figuring out and estimating how much to raise the whole front or whole rear along with how much to raise the RV at the same time from side-to-side. For example if at the same time the rear of the RV should be raised and whole driver's side of the RV should be raised: I use four of the 3-step blocks to raise the rear, but also put a piece of 2x6 under the front edge of the two 3-step leveling blocks on the driver's side rear duals and one 2-6 under the front driver's side tire.
As I pull forward onto all the blocks, the rear of the RV raises and the left (driver's) side of the RV raises - all at the same time. I'm watching two leveling gages mounted 90 degrees to each other - one on the dash and one on the driver's side door - as I pull forward. It took awhile after I owned the RV to learn how to do this - but after eventually getting good at the estimating part I can now pull off a 3-point leveling pretty fast.
We have a small Class C so we wind up a lot in the older campgrounds designed and built years ago when tent camping out of cars was the most popular. Hence the RV usually gets parked in the "car spot", which is often very much off level. Where the tent is supposed to be is often the only level part of the campsite - which does us no good. I also have to do a lot of 3-point leveling when we're out boondocking.
