I'd like to make contact with others who own one of the new (2004, 2005) Pace Arrows so we can share experiences, problems, good things, etc.

We are picking up our new 2004 Pace Arrow this week. We are upgrading from a 35 ft 5th wheel. I am happy, excited, nervous, thrilled, and scared at the same time. I hope we can quickly adjust to the different driving styles required with changing from a towable to a MH. Have you been happy with your Pace Arrow? Which model do you have?K in Texas

I have my 2004 Pace Arrow for 10 months, been across the USA once and put on over 8000 miles. Had some warranty work done, nothing big. Changed a few things inside and outside. Going to Classic Coach Works in Florida this spring to have the lighted mirrored ceiling package put on in the front living/kitchen area. Might have the ceiling fan put on in the bedroom.So far I am very happy with it. This is my 3rd Pace Arrow.email me if you want.

We took delivery of our Pace Arrow on New Year’s Eve, 2003. It’s the 36B floor plan, with cherry stained interior wood. We are very happy with it, and since I’m 6’8” tall, the 7’ ceilings are much appreciated!We’ve put nearly 9,000 miles on it, all here in the West. The powertrain has been solid and impressive. We recently learned that some of the Workhorse chassis built prior to sometime in the spring had been equipped with undersized shocks. Our local Workhorse service center confirmed that our coach had this problem and Workhorse authorized replacement of the front shocks. Have only driven it from the shop to the storage yard, so I don’t yet know how much they have improved the ride and handling.We’ve had some problems, but nothing really serious, although this could have been if I hadn’t noticed it while we were parked. The screws securing many of the storage compartment hinges had been over tightened causing the heads to break off. I noticed that one of the doors was mis-aligned, and when I opened it to see what was wrong, the hinge came completely off. Fortunately this happened when I was holding it and not on the highway at 60MPH.Other problems…Right from day one the automatic leveling system has lost stability, overnight at first, now right away because one of the jacks almost immediately lifts off the ground. It goes into the shop next week and I hope they can fix it this time. Has anyone else had problems with the leveling system? I recently met someone with a 2005 model; it has a different brand of leveling system, not PowerGear. Is this an indication that Fleetwood recognized a problem?When showering, lots of water flows from the backflow prevention valve on the shower faucet hose, regardless of where the shower head is positioned relative to the backflow prevention valve. The dealer has ordered a new hose and faucet, but I’m skeptical that will solve the problem. Anyone else had this problem?The button atop the kitchen faucet, that converts the flow from a stream to a spray, won’t lock in place. The faucet will spray as long as the button is depressed, but once released the flow returns to a stream. Our home faucet doesn’t work this way; once pressed, the button stays depressed and the flow continues as a stream. How does the faucet in your coach work? Will it lock into spray mode?Here’s a funny one that has been fixed. The compass would never read correctly. Turns out the sensor had been installed right next to several of the surround sound speakers, whose magnets were confusing the compass. Now that the sensor has been repositioned, the compass is working fine.

Hi Folks We have a 04 37C. We got it 8 months ago. Only minor problems so fa with 6000 miles. Bent tube for awning when it didnt retract in storm, leveling jacks had a hose leaking, refer blows out running down road and a couple of other things that warranty took care of. All & all we are happy with it. Eddie

Jim,While my Pace Arrow is a 2003, I think we do share some fixtures including faucets and the showerhead. I also started seeing more and more water from the showerhead backflow valve. At the same time, I began to think I wasn't getting the water pressure I had remembered –it wasn’t really bad – just off a bit. While checking the water pump connections I found a kinked line on the suction side of the pump where my dealer had installed a winterizing valve. I straightened that out and the problem was solved.I was going to tell you that my galley faucet did not lock into the spray mode, but then I realized I haven’t tried it since fixing the pressure issue. I tried it last night, and yes, it does lock into spray until I press the smooth part of the rubber switch that is about an inch down the handle from the spray switch. So you might want to look for a restriction in your water system. Good luck.Dave

looking for owners of 2004-2005 Pace Arrows

Paul_Turpin
Explorer
Sep 21, 2012
Has anyone replaced the RV frig with a home type frig?
Meme_Ray
Explorer
Aug 13, 2012
sawellman wrote:
Has anyone upgraded your air conditioners? Camping in the heat this weekend I am finding that mine dont really cool my RV that well and would like to upgrade.

I don't think upgrading your air-conditioners likely solve your problem. We had a similar problem in 2006 when temperatures were extremely high 100 to 115 on a trip to Memphis/St. Louis. We actually burned up our shore plug and had to replace it on that trip. Our unit is only 30amp so now in extreme heat when the air-conditioners run non-stop we only run one of the air conditioning units at a time and also run the fridge on gas instead of electric. We have thought about rewiring one of the air-conditioners to a separate circuit/plug so that we could plug it in by it self and thus use the 30amp and the 20amp plugs in most campground hook-up electric boxes. We looked into upgrading to 50amps but thought it wasn't worth all the effort.

Meme
Lobstah
Explorer
Aug 13, 2012
Never had an issue with ours, but we haven't been out in 100deg lately.
Maybe they need to be serviced?

Jim
sawellman
Explorer
Aug 13, 2012
Has anyone upgraded your air conditioners? Camping in the heat this weekend I am finding that mine dont really cool my RV that well and would like to upgrade.
rag-ftw
Explorer
Aug 09, 2012
Lobstah wrote:
Ready Brake here. Very little work required on the car, it's a steel cable that runs from a lever on their receiver, through the front of the car, around the engine compartment, through the firewall, and clamps to the brake pedal. As your MH slows down, the car pushes forward on the receiver, which in turn pulls the cable and the brake pedal. Very little to break, and very simple system.

Jim

Just completed a 5,000 mile trip from TX to AK with a Ready Brake system. It worked great! I did find that I had to allow a little more slack in the cable than the installation instructions indicate to allow for the frost heaves.

bob g
rag-ftw
Explorer
Aug 09, 2012
Lobstah wrote:
On a different note...
For the 3yrs we've owned our 36D, one of the things that has bugged me is the glass cabinet doors and the way they rattle when going down the road. No matter how tightly I pushed those silly rubber retaining strips into the slots, they still loosened up and the glass would rattler.
Finally had some time on the last trip to pull all the doors off, remove the strips, and apply a healthy bead of silicone caulk all the way around the glass. The trip home, over rough Mass highways and bridge joints was MUCH more quiet.
Easy project, huge payoff.

Jim

I took the glass out and replaced them with mirrors so the DW could use the cabinet for food storage. The mirrors were thicker than the glass and worked well with the retaining strips.
bob g
Meme_Ray
Explorer
Aug 06, 2012
Jim Bakker wrote:
Smoke from a nearby forest fire caused my CO sensor to go off last night.The alarm wouldn't stop sounding, and the crimp connections prevented easy disconnect, so I took the brute force approach—cutting the wires. That stopped the alarm, but it also disabled the propane alarm and the tank sensors. Does a CO sensor have to be wired into the circuit? Or did I blow a fuse? If so, where is the fuse located? All the coach fuses in the panel cabinet seem to be OK, and besides none of the labels seem to apply. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Sounds like a similar problem we had a few years ago and it took us quite a while to rectify the problem. The Smoke/CO alarm in our bedroom went off one night for no reason and pressing the reset did nothing. We ended up just yanking it off the ceiling in the middle of the night so that we wouldn't wake up the whole campground. We never did find the source of the malfunction but eventually found some writing on the smoke/CO alarm that indicated they actually have a life span and that ours should have been replaced a few years ago. I found an identical one on the internet by searching for the make and model number. There was one version that was hard wired and had a battery and one model with just a battery. Make sure that you get the right one because they look identical in the pictures. we need the one that was hardwired and had a battery. We had to spice the wires since we had ripped it off the ceiling but it worked great. I do think that there were some instructions about pressing a reset button or doing something else special during installation to get it installed properly. If this step wasn't followed the new unit beeped like the battery was bad. Seems to me the hard wired replacement unit was less that $35 that our local RV store wanted for the battery only unit. Good Luck.
Jim_Bakker
Explorer
Aug 05, 2012
Jim Bakker wrote:
I'll stop somewhere along the way tomorrow and buy fuses and a puller.
I decided to take care of this today. One of the fuses labeled LP Detector was burned out. Replaced it and all is well! Thanks for your help!
Jim_Bakker
Explorer
Aug 04, 2012
Jim@HiTek wrote:
another place to check would be inside that big box in or near the battery compartment.

Found two 3-amp fuses labeled LP detector in the Battery Control Center. Don't want to mess around in there without a fuse puller, but I'll stop somewhere along the way tomorrow and buy fuses and a puller.
Jim
Explorer
Aug 04, 2012
If you cut one wire at a time it's doubtful you blew a fuse. If you cut two wires in the same go, then you probably did.

Most house fuses are near the circuit breaker panel but since you've already checked there, another place to check would be inside that big box in or near the battery compartment.