looking for owners of 2004-2005 Pace Arrows

glewis wrote:
Took lightning hit thru plug in oxford,Ms week ago. Took out plug, coffee pot,back tv,microwave(still checking),poped fuse on fridge(Found and fixed)I now have no charging system for my batteries. Is my converter in the fuse panel under the sink? Is there a fuse somewhere I can check?Charging batteries with plugin charger for now. also my generator is still putting out voltage but not converting to 12 volts hope it is same fuse or problem. In Jackson, Ms. on a job right now. Thanks GREG Email hgcjlewis@gmail.com

GREG, If your converter is under the washer/dryer like mine and you have to replace it, let us know how you had to do it. I looked at my converter and was wondering how hard it would be to replace and if you had to remove the washer/dryer.
Good luck
Paul

Rich & Cheri' wrote:

glewis wrote:
Took lightning hit thru plug in oxford,Ms week ago. Took out plug, coffee pot,back tv,microwave(still checking),poped fuse on fridge(Found and fixed)I now have no charging system for my batteries. Is my converter in the fuse panel under the sink? Is there a fuse somewhere I can check?Charging batteries with plugin charger for now. also my generator is still putting out voltage but not converting to 12 volts hope it is same fuse or problem. In Jackson, Ms. on a job right now. Thanks GREG Email hgcjlewis@gmail.com

Converter is located under the washer/dryer. You can see it if you take out the grill at floor level unjder the hutch in galley area, (under fold-up table in center). The converter is very difficult to get to and probably requires removing washer/dryer and lifting w/d floor. Can also get to part of the converter by removing the propane detector, although this may be difficult. My detector was "cemented" in with foam insulation. I was checking my propane detector, not converter so I can't tell you any more.

I think the converter location varies, depending on the floor plan. On my 2004 36B it's below the cabinet under the vanity sink.

Rich & Cheri' wrote:

glewis wrote:
Took lightning hit thru plug in oxford,Ms week ago. Took out plug, coffee pot,back tv,microwave(still checking),poped fuse on fridge(Found and fixed)I now have no charging system for my batteries. Is my converter in the fuse panel under the sink? Is there a fuse somewhere I can check?Charging batteries with plugin charger for now. also my generator is still putting out voltage but not converting to 12 volts hope it is same fuse or problem. In Jackson, Ms. on a job right now. Thanks GREG Email hgcjlewis@gmail.com

Converter is located under the washer/dryer. You can see it if you take out the grill at floor level unjder the hutch in galley area, (under fold-up table in center). The converter is very difficult to get to and probably requires removing washer/dryer and lifting w/d floor. Can also get to part of the converter by removing the propane detector, although this may be difficult. My detector was "cemented" in with foam insulation. I was checking my propane detector, not converter so I can't tell you any more.

I think the converter location varies, depending on the floor plan. On my 2004 36B it's below the cabinet under the vanity sink.

glewis wrote:
Took lightning hit thru plug in oxford,Ms week ago. Took out plug, coffee pot,back tv,microwave(still checking),poped fuse on fridge(Found and fixed)I now have no charging system for my batteries. Is my converter in the fuse panel under the sink? Is there a fuse somewhere I can check?Charging batteries with plugin charger for now. also my generator is still putting out voltage but not converting to 12 volts hope it is same fuse or problem. In Jackson, Ms. on a job right now. Thanks GREG Email hgcjlewis@gmail.com

Converter is located under the washer/dryer. You can see it if you take out the grill at floor level unjder the hutch in galley area, (under fold-up table in center). The converter is very difficult to get to and probably requires removing washer/dryer and lifting w/d floor. Can also get to part of the converter by removing the propane detector, although this may be difficult. My detector was "cemented" in with foam insulation. I was checking my propane detector, not converter so I can't tell you any more.

While I was tinkering around my motor home, I notice that my awning support was full of water. The bottom supports of the side arm that attaches to the lower part of the RV is made in such a way that it holds water up against the side touching the gel coat finish.

My solution was to drill a 1/8” hole near the bottom of the support below the 2 holes that secure it to the wall. I was amazed as how much water came out when the drill went through the bracket. It has been over a week that I washed the RV and it still had water inside of the bracket. Everyone needs to check theirs after washing the unit or after a light rain.

Hi have any Pace Arrow owners had a problem with the living room slide break not holding the slide in while travelling. Mine can move out 2 inches during a 2 hour drive, never seems to go much further. Checked the break on the end of the motor and it is engaged but does not seem as tight as the break on the other slides.

2006 37C - based in Ireland

Took lightning hit thru plug in oxford,Ms week ago. Took out plug, coffee pot,back tv,microwave(still checking),poped fuse on fridge(Found and fixed)I now have no charging system for my batteries. Is my converter in the fuse panel under the sink? Is there a fuse somewhere I can check?Charging batteries with plugin charger for now. also my generator is still putting out voltage but not converting to 12 volts hope it is same fuse or problem. In Jackson, Ms. on a job right now. Thanks GREG Email hgcjlewis@gmail.com

Jim Bakker wrote:
Subject: hard ride....bad springs?

The quality of the ride in our 2004 Pace Arrow has been deteriorating recently. For awhile we thought it was just California roads, but I knew it was time to replace the shocks after 4 years and 50K miles. But unfortunately new shocks didn't help at all. Now the ride is unbearable! Drawers and doors that haven't come open since the Alaska Highway are coming open, significant squeaks are coming from the living area, one (maybe both) the corner braces of the shower enclosure has broken, etc. We knew something serious was wrong when our 110-pound Golden Retriever climbed on the dash to escape the noise and bumps!

I took it back to the shop that installed the shocks, complaining about their overly stiff ride. They say it's not the shocks, but the springs. They showed me that the chassis is resting on the "bump stops". I had a mechanic friend come to look at it today and he verified that diagnosis. We found another Workhorse-based motorhome in the storage yard; it was at least 2 inches off the "bump stops".

I got the coach weighed this afternoon. It's well under the published load limits.

Has anyone else found their coach sitting on the bump stops?

What an experience this has been! Here's what I've done and learned since my previous posting.

• I took the coach to my dealer service center to have the springs checked out. After consulting with Workhorse they advised that the springs were OK.
  
• They provided a Workhorse document that explained the suspension system. What Camping World called a "bump stop" is actually an active part of the suspension system, what Workhorse calls an "auxiliary
  elastomer spring". This document also stated that Workhorse installs custom tuned shock absorbers (Monroe prior to late 2004, Bilstein since then). These custom tuned shocks are available from Workhorse, but apparently not from the shock manufacturer.
  
• My new shocks were Bilsteins, purchased from Camping World. I do not believe these were the custom tuned shocks that Workhorse uses.
  
• Research I did on the internet convinced me that Bilsteins give a much harsher ride than Monroes. The Workhorse representative agreed and advised installing Monroes because of their more gentle ride, and because that's what I had for the first 50K miles.
  
• Camping World agreed to remove the Bilsteins, install whatever shocks I bought elsewhere, and refund the purchase and installation price of the Bilsteins. No hassle; I was impressed!
  
• I purchased a set of Workhorse's specially tuned Monroes and had Camping World put them on in place of the Bilsteins.
  
• Workhorse also recommended checking with Michelin to be sure the tires weren't over-inflated. They were, so I reduced the pressure to the Michelin recommendations.
  
  

My ride is much better, probably as good as when the original shocks were brand-new. Drawers and doors are no longer opening, and the dog hasn't tried to climb on the dash! Most of the noise coming from the living area was being caused by the oven coming loose. It very nearly came completely off it's mountings, but we noticed before that happened. It's secure now and much quieter, but the door seems to have loosened and I can't find any way to tighten it. I'll try shims to see if they will keep it from squeaking.

Mel Johansen wrote:
Retractable steps. Has anyone had a problem with the steps not going down when the screen door is opened? I went out last night in the dark to turn off some lights, stepped ouy and no stairs. I broke a toe as I fell all the way down. I was fortunate to have hold of the bar as I went down. The switch was off in order to keep the stairs in the down position. This is a dangerous situation.

Mel

A fellow member of our California Pacers club (an FMCA chapter of Pace Arrow owners) had a similar problem. She was quite badly injured and they took legal action against both Fleetwood and Kwikee. The matter was settled before going to trial, and the settlement agreement prevents them from discussing their situation. I've never fully understood what they thought caused the problem, but I think it might have been inadvertently changing the position of the step switch, thinking the porch light was being turned on/off. All of us in the club have now put a guard over the step switch to keep us from unknowingly changing it's position.

Finally got back to troubleshooting my electrical problem. Turned out to be a faulty GFI that would check good sometimes and and then lose about 10 volts on the output side occasionally. Thanks for input and ideas.