Mirror

I have my old one if you want it, it's yours you can experiment all you want....:B

To bad we are so far apart.

I looked at all the linked threads about the single-arm mirrors breaking. I remain convinced they can be repaired to full functionality by epoxying a threaded repair "bushing" inside the door-mounted piece and using a nut to tighten the arm, spring and retainer back into original position. Especially if I read the digital caliper in one of the pix as 0.67-inches, just over 5/8". If that approx 5/8" inside diameter is right, there's room for a 3/8" pipe nipple and that would offer plenty of strength to the repair.

I wonder if there's a longer version of Gotsmart's pickup-style mirrors.

Just be careful of the model year issue around 2002-2003 Fords as mentioned earlier. What Gotsmart has on his 2004 chassis might not match the OP's rig if the chassis under his "2003 coach" is actually a 2002 Ford chassis.

I have a set of these on my 2004 E450. I wish that would fully extend about 4 inches more than they do. The inside half of each mirror doesn't extend beyond the coach. Someone that runs a rental RV fleet told me than I am better off with the below mirror than with the single-arm mirrors because the dual-arm mirrors are built to last and the single-arm mirrors have a high frequency of repair and replacement.

Thanks for all the tips and directions! Now all it has to do is quit raining!

IAMICHABOD wrote:
great post by CloudDriver that shows how to do it

CD's "how to" posts are simply the BEST! Mine are more like a few cockeyed pix, a few awkward words, and the critical step missing.

OP will need this whether repairing or replacing. I can't picture doing the dismantling, disconnecting, drilling and epoxying it'd take to fix it the way I've imagined... with the damaged part still on the door. I was in our door doing something, forget just what, but it frustrated me to see that the third fastener is hidden behind the panel like Ford did. Doesn't matter to them - mirror no doubt went on first. Heck, they have some way to get the window mechanism installed with motor in place. To replace the motor, WE need holes for a small socket wrench. So Ford obligingly provides dimples to drill through. Why not, uh... Holes???

I think the connector is a MOLEX, and there's a tool to install/remove those terminals into/out of that plastic connector body.
Tool is terminal size dependent.

But for most of us, removing those terminals is pretty much a one-time, destructive operation. And if we bugger the plastic, they won't stay in place once re-installed.
So we cut and splice like CD did.

I hope somebody tries the fix I've dreamed up. It has the potential to make the mirror Better Than New because the assembly would be threaded steel instead of crimped pot metal. Might even be a way to make the tension adjustable...

It sounds like it broke like a lot of others have done,
If you decide to replace like I had to then this will help.

Here is a great post by CloudDriver that shows how to do it

Hi crasster, If it wasn't for the mirror adjustment wires it would have completely fallen off. I have duct tape holding it on right now.

Is it that it is not locking or just loose?

Thanks j-d. That sounds like a reasonable repair. I haven't had a chance to investigate. I've got a few weeks to repair or replace the mirror. Now that I'm home I have access to more than duct tape and bungee cord. I'll let you know how it works out.

Glad you made it! There are a few threads here about those Velvac mirrors. I felt badly that our entry level 2003 RV (on 200TWO chassis, thanks for that tip, Tom!) did not have those mirrors. We have the box truck/rental truck tripod mounts. They aren't power adjust, they aren't heated, but I've added lights and LARGE wide angle supplemental mirrors to them. We have a really great field of view and they don't break.
I think the problem is, Velvac uses pot metal for the pivot tube that lets the mirror fold. They press down on a spring and detent washer (that provides the stops when extended) then crimp the pot metal over that washer. The pot metal gets tired over time with use, folding, vibration... Then it loses its tightness on the washer and wobbles or won't stay extended. Then also, it may come totally un-crimped and the mirror arm drops.
I've thought up a fix but haven't had a mirror to try it on: Find a threaded tube (thinking of a pipe nipple or the threaded tubing that's used in light fixtures) and epoxy it into the original pivot tube. Or drill the tube out some to get the new piece to fit, but epoxy it to where enough thread sticks past the detent washer that you can use a nut to simulate the crimp. By that I mean both hold the mirror together again AND compress that spring so you have detent. Being tubular, the repair part lets you run the adusting/heating/lighting wires. Either saw the tube off for an OEM look, or leave it extended to ease future repairs. If there's no wiring, could use threaded rod instead of pipe or tubing.
As I said, never tried it. Just a picture in my mind.