Need to buy a NEW entry level RV - Any suggestions ?

Hi CodyClassB,

I personally feel that you would be better off buying a quality used unit for the same price of a new entry level unit. This assuming the quality used unit is in fine condition with a reasonably amount of miles and minimal wear and weathering.

This should be an interesting read for you. I put this together a number of years ago and repost it when it applies.

Ron Dittmer

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New or used, when shopping for any conventional class-C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. What construction methods are used to be most affordable, and what methods cost more but are built to hold up much better to the elements and the punishment of the road.

Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is.

When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with what I call "Eye Candy" and/or "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water penetration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets in, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Mold can also grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a Reliably Well Sealed motor home.

#1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.75 to 2 times the cost of Second Best)
NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are limited in size.

#2 SECOND BEST
Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus
I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA.
Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water. Here are the good things you want to look for.

a) Structural Seams Away From Corners
When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans, many thousands of times, representing a series of extended continuous earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lower stressed areas.

b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap
A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven. It is common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with most seam work.

There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. Born Free offers a seamless bucket design as seen in This Model. Winnebago's View Here is another fine example. Some manufactures as of late offer a partial bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. The Nexus Phantom applies a partial bucket concept. If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, that extra bed would be extremely important.

c) A Crowned Roof
Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons.

d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing
A single sheet of fiberglass that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down the wall a few inches. The fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected.

e) A 5 Sided Rear Wall Cap
This 5 sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress.

Potentially Troublesome Construction
Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner.

There are also rare exception like the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best

About The Chassis
The most popular is the Ford E-Series with the V10 engine. The Sprinter diesel is a popular alternative to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM chassis is not popular, but is a very good choice for the right application. Any of those three brands since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Sprinter is the least powered chassis. People who tow with a Sprinter, take it slower.

If considering a recent “small” class B+/C motor home, here is a comparison between the two main contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine.

Advantages Of The Sprinter With Diesel Engine
- Offers a 35% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically.
- More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room.
- Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride.
- A grander view out the windshield
- Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to.

Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine
- Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $13,000 MSRP cheaper
- The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque
- The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight.
- The E350 is able to tow a heavier load.
- The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability.
- In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel
- The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America
- The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping.
- This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions or you are dangerously low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues.

You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Via, View and View Profile. Others like Phoenix USA build their model 2350 and 2400 on both the Sprinter and Ford E350. They will even build it on the heaviest duty E450 upon request for a nominal fee. People who request an E450 for a small motor home, tow heavier things like for example, a multi-horse trailer. You can even special order a E350 & E450 4x4.

There is so much cool stuff offered in recent years, and even more anticipated with the upcoming Ford T-Series chassis. The general public hopes it will become available for the RV industry. It is kind-of like a Sprinter in size and fuel economy, but hopeful to be much more affordable and easier to get serviced.

The Chevy 3500/4500 Chassis
I do not understand why this chassis is not more popular. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches to store your rig, the Chevy adds an additional 6" to the front bumper compared to the Ford. I learned that researching rigs that could fit in my 25'-0" deep garage. By default, the Ford gave me 6" more to work with. If you examine my motor home in my garage HERE, you will see our Ford E350 is quite tight already. That could be some the reason why the Chevy offers a little more cab space.

Engine Power Ratings of Ford, Sprinter, & Chevy
Ford - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft
Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft
Chevy - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft

We bought new 2011 Chateau 31K...liked the floor plan (mid ship TV). Plenty of outside storage and all what we need(ed). We have driven to Yellowstone and Glacier National Park, towing a JEEP wrangler and never missed a beat. It serves our purpose to a TEE, like said before...it boils down to what you want and what comfort level you want. We have replaced the day/night window shades (as I think most have either replaced or restrung). With proper upkeep I believe any you decide on will serve you well.

CodyClassB wrote:
I understand that different people have different tastes . But in general, if you have 48K to 55K to buy a new RV (22-25 feet) . Which of the following would you choose ? and why ?

Thor Four Winds 22E
Freedom Elite 22E
Coachmen Freelander 21QB
Forest River Sunseeker 23U
Fleetwood JAMBOREE SEARCHER

My budget is 48K to 55K and the RV's length requirement is 22-25 feet . I found the model above on-line and at the local dealer. I am planning to move from my old B to a new C and I am looking for advice .

RVtrader's price range
RVtrader price range

thanks in advance.

although it says sunseeker the 23u is a thor product not sunseeker.



price a sunseeker at rvdirect. sunseekers are the best value for their price in c's. Notice i said for theprice.


i would buy a sunseeker 2300 from rvdirect.

Try to decide on a length and floor plan that you will want to have for some time and enjoy for the uses you will put it to. I recommend a 27 foot with a rear bedroom and RV Queen size bed,preferably with access on both sides. Shorter rigs have smaller cargo holds,tend to have clutter inside, and use of convertible sofas or dinettes or sleeping in the overhead which can be a pain with two people climbing over each other in the dark in the middle of the night, especially with any knee or foot problems. Most Class C's have same engine/drive train, same brands and models of appliances, generators and furnaces, etc. Differences are in sturdiness and quality of cabinets, roof materials, housebox framework, etc. A "Lazy Daze" will cost a lot more than a volume selling rig but will have better resale value. If you buy used, recommend a 3 year old rig with everything working properly. Tires become unsafe when they reach 5-6 years old by date code, appearance means little. If a used rig needs anything, get independant estimates from a trustworthy RV repair person before you buy and decide accordingly. Take your time an don't buy on impulse.

I looked at a freelander a couple of years back that had a huge basement compartment in the rear. if any of these listed have a rubber roof, I wouldn't buy them.
bumpy

We had a 21ft Freedom Elite 2010. The reason we sold it was that we wanted something slightly bigger and a different floor plan. In 3 years we put 17,000 miles on it.

It IS an entry level unit. The cabinets and interiors are not made of high quality materials. BUT the rig itself was solid and all of the appliances were good and worked well. It certainly has a ton of outside-accessible storage and sufficient inside storage.

Ours had an E350 engine. It always got us where we were going, but uphill was a slow process, especially on some of the Colorado mountain passes. We averaged about 8 mpg (but we both tend to have lead feet. YMMV)

Would I recommend this unit? Yes, as long as you understand that it is entry level. There's nothing wrong with it.

As far as new vs used goes, I like to buy new, even if I'm losing some money. I like the fact that no one else has slept in the bed or used the bathroom and I know how the engine has been cared for. But, to each their own.

Another brand to consider is the Nexus Phantom 24P & 25P. The 25P has a walk around queen bed. Stronger construction than aluminum, azdel and crowned fiberglass roof, front cap which reduces the venerable leak area, larger overcab area and will build it the way you want. Check out their website.

CodyClassB wrote:
I understand that different people have different tastes . But in general, if you have 48K to 55K to buy a new RV (22-25 feet) . Which of the following would you choose ? and why ?

Thor Four Winds 22E
Freedom Elite 22E
Coachmen Freelander 21QB
Forest River Sunseeker 23U
Fleetwood JAMBOREE SEARCHER

My budget is 48K to 55K and the RV's length requirement is 22-25 feet . I found the model above on-line and at the local dealer. I am planning to move from my old B to a new C and I am looking for advice .

RVtrader's price range
RVtrader price range

thanks in advance.

I appreciate the desire to buy new, we did and will again. Two comments for you:

Your list is missing two great brands with Winnebago and Jayco. I would broaden your search and add these two for sure. Each have offerings in the size your interested in.

Create a simple list of features and the relative importance to you so you can score them to compare, this really helps to reduce the emotional influence in your buying decision. You just might be surprised which unit scores the highest based on your prioritized needs.

We have a new 2014 Sunseeker 2300. We like it. It's entry level but well-equipped and decently built. It has good storage, an 80" queen bed (I recommend the upgraded Serta mattress), ducted air, fiberglass front cap, Azdel rather than wood inside the walls, very good insulation (we've already camped in cold temps and it's very good), fiberglass roof, tough vinyl floor, gas oven, two coach batteries, LED lights, Fantastic Fan, dash GPS/DVD/XM, and rearview monitor. Some of those are options that come with the basic convenience package which is on virtually all Sunseekers.

Downsides, mainly I would say a small bathroom and kitchen. Next is that like most entry level RV's, it could use better exterior hardware, especially caulking and sealing of same. No leaks for now, but I'm going to watch the roof seams like a hawk, plus caulk the exposed screws and horizontal seams or items against the body which can trap water. However, this is industry-wide (IN ENTRY LEVEL RVs), not unique to Forest River. Good owner preventative maintenance is very important on entry level RVs.

We bought the Chevy rather than Ford version. That gives more MPG and leg room, and lower price too, I think. Just over $50K plus tax. Get a price from RVDirect.com, then shop that price around at dealers. You will find one or more dealers who will beat that price.

If after the first campout you decide this is not for you, you will be out a lot less money with a used unit vs. a new one. That is one reason there are so many units out there 1 -3 years old with very low mileage. You may also be able to get 1 or 2 slides in a used unit. They really do help on the inside for space. I know some people are afraid of slides but problems are very rare.