Folks, I've read through the stickys, and several post before authoring this message. Please forgive me if I've missed portions of the RV.net forum protocol - I'll pick it up quickly.I've decided its time for a <=30' Class C for Wife, baby and me. We're looking at used models with a max price of $25k, preferably with bunk over cab. I'm extremely proficient mechanically, a strong handyman and technically savy, which is a good and a bad thing. It means that I am absolutely confident there are a million things that im unaware of, and thats why I'm reaching out for some assistance. My main goal is to establish a small group of knowledgeable members that I can bounce specific vehicles off of as I continue my search. I've been scouring craigslist ads up and down the east coast, though there doesnt seem to be a ton in my price range. Some examples:http://rochester.craigslist.org/rvs/4612473629.htmlhttp://washingtondc.craigslist.org/doc/rvs/4621224402.htmlWe live near Washington DC, so mid atlantic states are helpful in our search.I'd prefer to stick with a E350 chassis. I'd LOVE to find a 7.3l Powerstroke engine though im comfortable with the V10. We'd also prefer a decent towing capacity for a TT.Again, I've read the FAQs about what to look for, but any and all advice is appreciated - especially when I'll have to deal with winter weather conditions, etc.If its ok, I'll continue to post vehicles i find in this thread - I'd ask that you give some honest feedback to help us make this first purchase a happy one.Thanks!-Will

Will,You may want to consider Class A's as well. The Class A's provide more useable living area due to the layout of the floor space and incorporation of the driving (swivel) seats as part of the living room area.

Hi,Look for any water damage.Look harder for any water damage.Look ever harder for any water damage.If you see any. Walk away.

This kind of plea for general advice recurs about once per week on this forum.If you have all the expertise, tools,work space, help, and time to do serious maintenance and repair work you have many options. If you want to start motorhoming without much delay, I'd recommend a 5+ year old rig that literally needs nothing. Major stuff like roof AC, fridges, awning fabric and fresh water pumps can go ten years, maybe longer "depending". Get familiar with the basic floor plans available in various brands, they are governed by bumper to bumper length to some extent. Rear bedrooms with queen-sized beds are best for adults. Slide-outs are nice but can be a source of electro-mechanical problems. Some models have large rear storage space and come with spare wheels and tires, some don't. Good to have a spare even if you have road service. Tires become unsafe sitting parked in the driveway in 4-5 years. They need to be checked for age by date codes on the tires and replaced despite appearance and tread depth. Brake fluid should be flushed and replaced every 2 years to avoid brake fade on downgrades. Front flex lines on brakes should be replaced every 5+ years, they can rupture internally and cause sudden pulling when brakes are applied. Maintaining proper tire pressure is important for safety and ride comfort. Proper alignment with rig loaded is important for handlng. Money spent on suspension upgrades can improve handling to some extent. The engine cooling system needs including all belts, hoses, water pump, clutch fan and radiator need to be in good shape for mountain driving on hot days, etc. The converter/charger and house batteries last five or ten years "depending". Roof construction and condition are improtant.Hope this helps a little.Welcome to the forum.

pianotuna wrote:Hi,Look for any water damage.Look harder for any water damage.Look ever harder for any water damage.If you see any. Walk away.I would suggest changing the word "walk" to "run".bumpy

Bumpyroad wrote:pianotuna wrote:Hi,Look for any water damage.Look harder for any water damage.Look ever harder for any water damage.If you see any. Walk away.I would suggest changing the word "walk" to "run".bumpyDouble ditto. Also, be very cautious about Craigslist: there's a lot of scams going on there now.

New to RV'n, used class Cs, need some kind advice

Fastpaddler
Explorer
Sep 06, 2014
I examined a 2015 Winnebago Axis. 25 1/2 ft. Good family space. Somewhat cheaper fitments and interior. Only gripe: replacing truck battery would require removing front aircon compressor to get access to battery! Odd: well, yes!!

Otherwise, nice A class smaller unit.
AL
Bumpyroad
Explorer
Sep 05, 2014
bsinmich wrote:
You mentioned towing a TT with a MH. That would require a WD hitch and many MHs can't take a WD hitch because of how the hitch and frame are built.

I did a quick look and couldn't find the tT issue, but wouldn't this depend on the size/weight of the TT. when I bought mine, 3500 lbs. dry, they said I didn't need a WDH but got one anyway.
bumpy
bsinmich
Explorer
Sep 05, 2014
You mentioned towing a TT with a MH. That would require a WD hitch and many MHs can't take a WD hitch because of how the hitch and frame are built.
DaHose
Explorer
Sep 05, 2014
I speak from experience. Water damage is ALWAYS worse than you think. I also agree that at $25K you will have a VERY hard time finding a perfect RV. Since water damage is THE #1 killer of RV's, I recommend a pressurized leak test. Any leaks are not good, but roof leaks are critical to find and assess.

Jose
super_camper
Explorer
Sep 03, 2014
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Look for any water damage.
Look harder for any water damage.
Look ever harder for any water damage.

If you see any. Walk away.

I agree with the point about water damage and to be very cautious about it but I would not immediately run away from every unit that you notice some kind of water damage. At a $25K price point you are going to have to be realistic.

Water damage is the foremost killer of class c's but not all water damage spells disaster for the unit. My recommendation at this point is to educate yourself on the various class C construction techniques (see previous posts from Ron Dittmer) and where the vulnerabilities are.

The location of the water damage is important, as is the source (outside vs leaky pipe inside), the age of the damage is also important and whether any repair attempt was made.

I really think the most telling thing for a buyer is the way the overall MH was maintained, damage or not. I have personal experience here as I just sold my class C. It had some water damage below the back window and a bubble in the rear wall. The leak occurred suddenly in year 3 of ownership and I immediately removed and resealed the window only to find the spot grew. I then realized it was the back-up brake light (my mistake of course). I fixed the source and left the bubble as is for the next 5 years. I sold the MH and it was in perfect condition with the exception of this small damaged area. It was a great deal for the buyer!
DaCrema
Explorer
Sep 03, 2014
We live in the DC area. Several years ago we started kicking around the idea of buying a RV. We had been tent campers. My wife wanted a class B. I knew from my parents RVing and our camping preferences that I would have to do some explaining to get a class C.
I went to a few dealers near by to explain the differences between the C and B. This was good for both of us as there are some very good reasons in favor of the B. Once I knew we wanted a "C" (your are already there), I went to local shops, and talked to friends that owned RVs. I strongly suggest going to the Hershey show. I learned a lot there. We often camp in places where we need to bring water so CCC was important to us. I worked in a place with no windows all my life so I wanted at least some nice windows for when we were locked in on a rainy day. We had been camping in a backpacking tent packed into a 99 Toyota Van so we were not to worried about size or floor plan. Anything was going to be an improvement. That said we had to have enough room for us, our grown daughter who often visits, and our two dogs whose presence was increasingly more important to the new empty nesters.

I wound up with a used Lazy Daze. I flew to Southern CA and drove home with it. It was a great trip. If you buy something that far away get it inspected.
evanvalk
Explorer
Sep 02, 2014
A little Tip Will, 6, 8, 10 Years ago you buy Say a class C for 70,000.00 Then the big economic slump, Manufactures still have to build Motors Homes and make money, But not much Money available , That Same Motor Home based on Looks goes for about 55,000,00 to 60,000,00, (From a relative who works for a major Manufacture) Newer comes with about 20 to 25 Grand less quality built in but unseen, Everything in it is cheaper, So buy older if you can find what you like, Ed.
DaveInIowa
Explorer
Sep 01, 2014
I see several posts are suggesting you look outside your area. I sadly concur.
Nice used Class Cs are a hard find. I looked for THREE years in central Iowa before finding a decent Class C to buy. (I was in the 6-8k price range)
Actually, it found me. I posted a 'Looking For' craigslist ad in the for sale campers section. I find it logical as some may look there to see what the compition has for sale. Expect your posts to be flagged and removed. I did this over a course of a week and then stopped. Three weeks later a guy responded (he saved my information). He was in the process of moving and had no intention of selling it until the following spring. He told me the sheer amount of information in my ad as to what I desired motivated him to call me. I was very specific. Don't just put "Looking for Class C". Be specific. I realize many of the things I asked for are academic but it mattered. (Proper spelling helps too!) I specified my price range also. I had the cash funds and was ready to buy. We exchanged emails via craigslist, then he sent pics, then I asked for address; it was in a bedroom community. Found it on google earth, nice neighborhood. DID not take the cash with me for first visit!!! OPSEC here folks.
Long story short; I bought a 94 Tioga Arrow 32 footer E350 93k miles for 7 grand, it booked out at $8300.00. 2000.00 in tires, massive tune up with a new EMC and I have a fantastic rig. And She found me!
First long trip was to Table Rock Lake last month and she rode/drove like a dream.
EMD360
Explorer
Aug 27, 2014
One great place to research RV's in general is PPL in Texas. All types are posted and they have a sold list that shows the Texas market value for various models and year of manufacture. I like that they have both the photos and the floorplans for each model. Good way to learn about layouts etc.
We have a 2003 22' 350 V10 that we love. Bought from craigslist in 2009 and paid about the price you are looking at. Has everything and in a small footprint. If you want to tow you might look for a 24' model with a 450 chassis though. The 350 is more limited in carrying and towing capacity. Apparently the gas mileage is about the same, even with a larger rig.
Also check out of town craigslists in places like Florida where older folks sell their RV's. You can usually fly there very cheaply and pick up and drive home. You can get the rig inspected before you go. It doesn't make sense to buy locally if rigs are available and for sale more reasonably where there is a larger market.
PghBob
Explorer
Aug 27, 2014
Mornin". If new to RVing, I would suggest that you go to the RV show in Hershey in Mid-September, self-proclaimed largest show in the country (1200 RVs on display last I checked). It's only a couple hours away from DC. I understand that you are looking for used units, but you can get a greater appreciation for floor plans, options, build quality (especially roof construction), and importantly the Occupant and Cargo Carrying Capacity (OCCC)of the various units. Also, there are various seminars on topics you might find beneficial. We went several times before we bought our Class C and obviously found the show helpful in our buying decision or I wouldn't recommend it to you. Best wishes for success. Bob