Forum Discussion

Angelgabriel7's avatar
Aug 09, 2020

Newbie with old leaks. Please help....

Hi, just recently purchased a Class C 2011 Itasca Impulse Silver 31CP with under 32,000 miles for 37,000 which seemed like a great deal, until we got it home and started to notice what were obvious signs of water leaks that are making me sick wondering how I didn’t notice them before handing over the cash. It was a private purchase and having a 2 yo ramming around after driving for 10 hours didn’t help but non the less the red flags were there and I should have seen the issues. So now that it’s my problem to deal with I’m seeking the advice of experienced RV owners and hoping to get insight into how similar problems were solved.

There are 3 main leaks from what I can tell and 2 minor leaks. All 5 are the result of poor maintenance and all 5 have been stopped and the RV is parked until I can figure out what damages need to be repaired and what can just be sealed off and monitored.

Major leak 1. Fiberglass over cabin bunk
The silicon sealant (311 sealant) appears to be in good condition still but where the silicone ends there is about a 6” exposed seem that appears to have only a polyurethane sealant caulk used under where the 1 piece fiberglass cap slips over the fiberglass roof just before the edge. It looks like this was intentional to let water drain off the roof but that sealant failed and water was getting in and leaking through the vinyl padded ceiling. The water stain on the ceiling is about a 2 sqft area. The wood at the roof and cap seam is soft and clearly rotted. And the fiberglass roof has about a 2 sqft area of delamination. I put loctite 100% silicone over the seam as a quick leak stop, I’ve since read this was a mistake because silicone is not a good sealant but the previous owner had silicone there and I was afraid nothing else would stick. I have been running a dehumidifier in the RV for a week hoping it will help dry out the roof, but I probably will have to open the seam again and use a hairdryer from the top or put a dehumidifier wrapped in plastic over the opening. Ideas for possibly fixing this are maybe a 2 part flexible resin and hardener. Or cut out the delaminated fiberglass, resin / epoxy the rotted wood then reglass. The water damaged vinyl padding (wet area is dried out looking compared to the non effect areas) probably can’t be fixed and replacing doesn’t seem easy since it is tucked into the side walls at the roof seam.

Leak 2. Crack in the vent from over tightening the screws.
This leak has likely been there a long time. Similar damage as the 1st leak but there doesn’t seem to be much if any delimitation. I have since filled the entire vent area and crack with the self leveling 311 silicone sealant similar to what Winnebago used, all existing surfaces were cleaned with mineral spirits prior to sealing)

Leak 3. Clogged refrigerator drain.
I noticed there was a soft spot in front of the fridge and a small amount of water damage to the molding. There was also about 4” of water in a plastic exterior storage bin just below the fridge area. This bin is almost completely sealed except where it ties in to the sidewall. I cleared the clogged drain and I assume the water was leaking in from behind the fridge and down the sidewalk. There is no obvious delimitation but when I stuck my head in I could see some luan rot and space between the luan and fiberglass, not much but this is probably how the water was getting in. I am hoping an flexible resin will work once the area is fully dried out.

Leaks 4 and 5. The rear corners
The caulk in the space between the back of the RV and the structural seam where the 311 sealant stopped and just regular polyurethane sealant was used was cracked and no longer sealed fully. There is some minor softness and delimitation under the roof. About a 6” area. I have since resealed this area and there is no obvious sign of a leak inside the RV and no signs of wall delimitation.

Any thoughts, concerns, experiences, recommendations or references for skilled professionals in the Philadelphia or surrounding area that might be able to help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Photos

https://www.flickr.com/video_download.gne?id=50207092612





  • You mentioned delamination on the roof... I don't believe Winnebago bonds the fiberglass to the wood underneath. It floats to allow for expansion/contraction, but if you let air get underneath it, you'll lose it. That's why it's critical to keep the seams sealed including along the drip rail.
  • Hi,

    On a previous RV I solved corner leaks by injecting Great Stuff foam. Do it from inside the RV. Drill a hole just big enough for the tube to fit. USE LOTS!

    If you have to trim the foam on the outside of the RV, cover it with Eterna Bond. When you trim the foam it becomes open cell--that is why it needs to be covered.

    Go in peace and leak no more.
  • If you visit a dealer/repair place as suggested by Bill, be ready for some expensive options.
  • If you can find a dealer that can do a professional leak test ( $100.00 ) then the test will show you exactly the number of leaks and how severe. Good Luck
  • Try this for pictures...

    http://photoposting.is-great.net/?i=3