Norcold code L1. OP how to fix

Welcome, a new member that can use the search box... may be a first.:B
Is the red light lit on the little black box outside? What year unit? On older units when the red light is on you will get nothing on the display as the black box cuts all of the power to the control board.
Leave the power on and the stronger the better.
Sounds like the failure prone black box band aide got wet... doubt it will reset. I'd bypass the large wire going into it to where the large wire out of it connects to the control board. Do this ONLY if there is no ammonia smell or yellow powder around the boiler/flue in the back.

tinkerer wrote:

mpierce wrote:
Use a strong magnet. I have learned that if I am getting the rv washed, shut off the fridge, and stuff something in the outside door. Water gets in there, and can trip it. I have had it happen twice after washing. I now stuff a towel in there, and also ask the washer to NOT spray high pressure right on the vents. No problem since.

So correct,this happened to us and the magnet worked to reset it and haven't had a problem since. Another friend of mine had the same problem and I coached him over the phone and he got his reset. The magnet seemed to work just left of the little red light. But I was told before you reset it to look for any yellow residue a sign that you have a leak which caused the overheating. Mine was just from a power washer.:)

I know this question is a couple of years old but our fridge started showing that error code after we were in a nasty, blowing storm up on the Oregon coast. I just have a couple of questions. 1. Should the refrigerator be unplugged from power when you reset the switch and 2. How strong of a magnet? Thanks!

mpierce wrote:
Use a strong magnet. I have learned that if I am getting the rv washed, shut off the fridge, and stuff something in the outside door. Water gets in there, and can trip it. I have had it happen twice after washing. I now stuff a towel in there, and also ask the washer to NOT spray high pressure right on the vents. No problem since.

So correct,this happened to us and the magnet worked to reset it and haven't had a problem since. Another friend of mine had the same problem and I coached him over the phone and he got his reset. The magnet seemed to work just left of the little red light. But I was told before you reset it to look for any yellow residue a sign that you have a leak which caused the overheating. Mine was just from a power washer.:)

Use a strong magnet. I have learned that if I am getting the rv washed, shut off the fridge, and stuff something in the outside door. Water gets in there, and can trip it. I have had it happen twice after washing. I now stuff a towel in there, and also ask the washer to NOT spray high pressure right on the vents. No problem since.

dougrainer wrote:
Not all recall boxes will respond to the magnet. MY point is, the box tripped for a reason. Resetting is risky without knowing why it tripped. Doug

Well, when your refer has worked flawlessly for five years and then the first trip out after the recall this problem occurs, the reason is probably a faulty reacall "fix". That's fairly obvious. If I had not gotten the recall done, I would not be sitting in my coach on a Sunday evening, having just gotten back from a weekend away, with a warm refer filled with spoiled food.

botts12 wrote:
Go to the back of the fridge. Open the panel and you will see a red light on a black box. Place a magnet under the red light and it will go off and the fridge will come back on. This is what the mechanic did to ours. There is a problem with the recall box. We did this and never had another problem in a year.

Not all recall boxes will respond to the magnet. MY point is, the box tripped for a reason. Resetting is risky without knowing why it tripped. Doug

Go to the back of the fridge. Open the panel and you will see a red light on a black box. Place a magnet under the red light and it will go off and the fridge will come back on. This is what the mechanic did to ours. There is a problem with the recall box. We did this and never had another problem in a year.

Chunk it to the curb or replace it with a new coil that may or may not last. We went thru this and finally just got rid of the NOCOLD and went all electric. Most of our trouble was with the dealer doing it wrong. Loose fitting coil and no cooling. Had enough of that!!! I believe that a lot of recalls had to do with the incorrect install jmop Larry

The procedure is this.
1. Take it to a Norcold auth service center.
2. They will check for leaking ammonia and if NO obvious leaks will bypass the Recall control for 24 hours and check performance of the refer.
3. IF the refer performs to spec, Norcold will replace the recall box AND the tech is supposed to replace the Thermosensor also and Norcold will pay the labor to replace the kit and pay for the kit
4. The customer is out the .5 to 1.0 hour check out fee to verify the condition of the refer. We charge .5 hour check out fee.
5. IF the refer does NOT perform to spec on the initial check out, then WE charge another .5 to go into more detail and find out what the problem is. IF the problem turns out to be a Defective Cooling unit, we stop and advise the customer. NEW Cooling units from Norcold come with the recall kit.
6. If it is NOT a cooling unit problem but something else, the customer can then opt to pay and have us fix the operational problem.
7. Norcold will NOT under any circumstance allow a customer to replace the recall box or advise to bypass a tripped box. Doug

Yeah I googled it also,not good, thanks for the reply.