There is a small orifice either in the water line at the solenoid valve or inside the solenoid valve itself that meters water to the ice maker. Review the service bulletin I've linked to below.
DH just replaced the water regulator on ours. It would overfill the ice cube tray and we would get a solid block of ice in the basin. He tried everything he could think of. . . making the cubes smaller, etc. Finally he researched and found the water regulator could be the problem. Ordered one on line and put it in. It has worked ever since. This is the second ice maker in our fridge. The first quit working and he ordered another on line and installed it.
Several suspects in order of where on the line they are
First: the Shut-off valve and optional inline filter (Closed/Clogged) Now the switch on the U-matic *1 The solenoid The line from the solenoid to the icemaker Iced up
1: Hook a 120 volt test light to the solenoid leads (you can pull 'em off while unplugged and hook 'em to a test light) have someone force cycle the ice maker by turning the big gear wheel in the direction of the arrow.. if the light comes on and goes off the ice maker itself is good.
Next hook it back up and again cycle it.. If water water everywhere but not a drop of ice.. Tub is broke.
A flat metal piece (Key. knife) that magnets stick to held near the solenoid (like 1/4 inch away) while the ice maker cycles should be attracted to the coil at some point, make sure it's flat to the coil or you should hear the "CLICK" as the valve opens.
NOTE: Solenoid valves vary in cost. from under 10 bucks to over 50, and nearly all of them are interchangable.
Ice makes initiate their harvest cycle when the mold cools to about 15 degrees. After that every is "timed". A timer motor turns the wiper to push out the formed ice cube. It runs till it stalls against the cube in the mold and hangs there until the mold heater warms up and the ice is released from mold. It pushes out the ice cubes and opens the water feed solenoid for a few seconds to allow fresh water into the mold and then the timer motor reaches the end of it's rotation, it stops and waits for the mold to cool down again so another harvest cycle can begin. The mold heater is controlled by the timer motor and a high temperature limit snap disk. That's pretty much to whole story on ice makers. If you understand how they work, troubleshooting them is a lot easier.
If your mold isn't filling with water, the feed line is either plugged up or the solenoid isn't opening to allow water through it. Stay focused on that until you find the problem.
I'd download the service manual for your fridge. My Norcold 4 door has both icemaker and indoor water. My ice maker quit and i found the replacement at Lowes. MUCH CHEAPER that ordering from Norcold. Service manual is also very informative.
If you open the outside access panel to the reefer, you should be able to see the water line going to a valve and then going to a solenoid and then from the solenoid to the reefer. These solenoids frequently fail and are inexpensive and easy to replace. First thing would be to see if there is any water going to the solenoid - that would eliminate filter and other supply problems.