Norcold N611 five flashes

bgosden wrote:
I did wonder if the two were related, but what led me to believe they were not is that the fridge would still fault code even if we had the RV hooked up to our house power. Would this still lead to an indication that it is linked to the battery bank issues? Perhaps I can grab a few pictures of the battery bank as well. We hooked them up exactly as they were when we bought it, but there could be something incorrect there.

To dougrainer- It is not off level, currently just parked in the flat driveway. For voltage, we did check the plug and it tested fine. Filled the LP tank, but not sure how we would test pressure? Gas stove and furnace function fine on LP. Fridge is not in a slide out. I believe ours does not have a cooling fan from the documentation I have on it, but I can check it again. For thermistor, do you just mean disconnect entirely and see if we still get the fault code as we have been seeing?

Documentation from Norcold does not always indicate a rear cooling fan on 2 door refers. Now, The CORRECT way and ONLY way to determine the condition of the Cooling unit is to wire the 120 volt heating element direct to 120 volts for 24 hours. This bypasses all controls. You install a small glass of water in the lower section and get the temp of the water after that 24 hours. Have you pulled the roof top vent cover(4 screws) and verified that there is no obstruction stopping the hot air from flowing out the roof vent? Last, A very common way dishonest RV sellers get away with selling a RV with a defective refer cooling unit, is to show the freezer is COLD and the potential buyer assumes it is operating correctly. a BAD cooling unit will get the freezer COLD, just not down to 0 to 10 degrees. Now, if the 120 hot wire test does NOT get the water below 36 degrees, then the cooling unit is BAD and will have to be replaced. Doug