Norcold N621 fridge has no 12V power to board or panel

you do have a good charged 12v battery in there?

2000 model year....good chance fridge has 'Recall Box'

Black control box with LED located on backside of fridge via access/vent cover

IF LED is RED......box has tripped shutting down ALL DC to fridge

If 'Revision D' it needs to be replaced with newest revision ('E') and have fridge cooling unit checked out (trips de to overheating/700*F or faulty recall box but which one???0

Some Rev 'D' box can be reset using a strong magnet across face of recall box.....but not always


No Recall Box...
Then check in your DC Dist Panel where coach FUSES are.
Fridge DC is fed from one of those DC fuses.
Feeder fuse check good....
Then you have to remove control board (outside compartment) and check the 3A DC fuse on board (Auto type fuse)
To remove cover you have to unplug AC power cord, DC leads, Ignitor sensing wire, gas valve leads...then remove 3 screws

Believe my box was built before the recall. Checked the recall site this morning. Did not see a red LED light - will look again.

Checked DC panel fuses, as well as the 3 amp fuse in control box - all good. Was able to pull the cover without disconnecting wires

One thing I checked was the 12V leads going to the box - nothing on my meter. Did have AC power to the outlet on generator power.

Checked both batteries - full charge.

Got to have 12V DC going TO the fridge or NOTHING works...

Either DC feeder fuse is bad, fuse socket/contacts not making contact, wire(s) broken etc.
'

Did you TEST fuses of 'look' at them??

Thanks for the reply, Old-Bisquit.

I understand I have to have 12V going to it - that's why I tested the wiring going to the board. I removed every fuse I had on the rig and tested continuity with a meter. My panel is not labelled clearly, so I don't know what wires go where. Oddly I have two lights that have no power either, so I suspect a bad connection, but don't know where to look. At least in my house I can trace circuits from the breaker box - frustrating!

Considering getting a new board.

dmjenks52 wrote:
Thanks for the reply, Old-Bisquit.

I understand I have to have 12V going to it - that's why I tested the wiring going to the board. I removed every fuse I had on the rig and tested continuity with a meter. My panel is not labelled clearly, so I don't know what wires go where. Oddly I have two lights that have no power either, so I suspect a bad connection, but don't know where to look. At least in my house I can trace circuits from the breaker box - frustrating!

Considering getting a new board.

A new board :H


No dc to fridge a new board is NOT going to cure that.

DO you have the Norcold 'Recall Box'?
IS it tripped?

Find/fix/REDO DC power to fridge BEFORE throwing any parts at it !!

Did you check the battery dis-connect switch. this must be switched on in order to get 12 volt anywhere in the unit. Switch may be inside the door on the wall or check your manual for location.

From what I have researched, my box was made before the recall period.

I have NO LED's lit anywhere, so my answer would have to be "no"

tobydad wrote:
Did you check the battery dis-connect switch. this must be switched on in order to get 12 volt anywhere in the unit. Switch may be inside the door on the wall or check your manual for location.

Have no manual, and I am not aware of a disconnect switch. Will look into this further - thanks!