So I purchased an '08 Winnebago class c a few months ago. The door entry door handle was a trimark and the tumbler was worn to the point that the keys would only occasionally work. OK, it's an eight year old unit, I expect it to be worn. So I do the research to determine what model door lock I need (Model 30-900, same as 17220-07) and order one from pacific rv parts (06/03/16), about $145. Expensive for a cheap door handle but if I get another 8 years I will be happy. Well, its been 3 whole months now and this handle failed. The paddle will swing out but nothing happens, the door wont open. I have to use the cab doors and go in and open the entry door from the inside. Again, not impressed. This was an $88k unit when new and they put these cheap junk failure prone door handles on them. Ridiculous that they can't make something that lasts more than three months. I will take it apart when I get the time and see if it's fixable, otherwise I'm not sure what my options are. Spend another $145 for another one and hope it lasts longer than this one did? I did search of this issue and saw that I am not alone, many other rv owners have had problems with other model trimark handles as well. What a pain for something that should be well figured out and dependable by this time.

TriMark has a very troublesome latch model but the model number you posted doesn't jump to my mind as being it. I'd say: Hold on a day or so to give some of the OP's, particularly the techs who generously share their talents, to weigh in. There might be another make/model of latch that's less troublesome.And, call TriMark. They might just furnish a replacement.

j-d wrote:And, call TriMark. They might just furnish a replacement.Do this. Their website claims they have a one year warranty on their products. (Somewhat unusually, it's specifically stated as one year from when whomever buys it from TriMark gets it, which may mean you'd have to involve the store you got it from in the process. Regardless, there's nothing to be lost by calling and enquiring.)

I do not know what brand door latch came on our Jayco, but it failed in the same manner that your Trimark did. The latch would swing out, but the door would not open. I was fortunate that I found this little splined rod, 3/4" long, maybe 1/4" in diamater right next to the steps of the motorhome. I figured it had to belong. I found where it went, replaced it and the latch worked for another week or two.I called the dealer and they sent me a new latch. After the 2nd or 3rd use, the new latch failed exactly the same way - the little splined rod fell out again. I ended up putting some adhesive on the rod and then putting it back where in. Haven't had a problem since then. It's been about 6.5 years since that fix and we live in the motorhome 4 months of the year in the summer. The door gets plenty of use and still going strong.-Michael

Thank you for all the replies and suggestions. I will take it apart this weekend and see if I can find anything broken or fixable. If not I will contact trimark as suggested and see what they will or wont do. I was venting a little in my original post (lol) I've cooled down some now, I just couldn't believe it only lasted 3 months. It made our camping trip last weekend a bit of a hassle, having to climb in through the cab every time you wanted to go back in, or leave the entry door cracked open, making the poor a/c work even harder in the 90* weather.

If it, broke and jammed, you may not be able to R@R it without considerable work. I really beat my door up doing it. sense then, there have been a number of posts on how to do it without damaging the door. May want to do a forum search. Good luck with it

Not impressed with Trimark products | Good Sam Community

14 Replies

rbreak
Explorer
Sep 26, 2016
Just a quick follow up, I finally had a chance to take apart the door handle this weekend. There is a lever attached to the paddle handle inside the door that swings back and forth when you pull on the paddle handle. It is at the bottom of the handle. That lever is supposed to push on another lever attached to the inside plate, that will activate the latch mechanism and release the door. The paddle handle lever had somehow gotten below the lever it was supposed to be pushing against, so the paddle handle was doing nothing when I pulled on it. I had to bend the lever up just slightly with some vise grips. I put it back together, and so far anyway, it is working. I do not think it's a great design, so I do not have a lot of confidence that it is a permanent fix, but at least if it happens again I know what I have to do.
Harvey51
Explorer
Sep 25, 2016
Congratulations! Was there a clip or something to allow the cylindrical plug containing the keyhole and pin tumblers to be pulled out? I could see the back end of one of my locks and didn't see any clip to remove. It looked like it wasn't designed to be rekeyed. Maybe I just couldn't see it well enough without drilling the rivets.
ron_dittmer
Explorer III
Sep 21, 2016
Harvey51 wrote:
Thanks, Ron. I just took the lock front and back off the door and lubricated the sliding parts and lever turning points. It made quite a difference in the ease of opening the door handle and the deadbolt slides better. I disabled the other lock a while back after it repeatedly locked itself.

Did you actually rekey one of the locks? I didn't see a way to get at the pins.
Yes I removed one tumbler and took it to our local locksmith who re-key'd it to the key from the other tumbler so that they now use a common key. The only way I knew how to remove the tumbler was to first remove the plate on the back side by drilling away the 4 rivet-looking hold-downs, to access the back side of the lock which worked with that portion of the project. But later, the bigger challenge was tapping four threaded holes to use screws to remount the back plate, since the rivets were now gone, leaving only solid metal to drill/tap into. That operation did go smoothly as I have a drill press and tapping tools & selection of screws at home. I would not try it without a drill press. I used Locktight on the 4 screws to assure they won't come loose.

I do wonder if a locksmith has a special means to remove the tumblers from the face without even removing the lock from the door. Of coarse I thought of that possibility after I was completely done with the project.....sheesh!
Harvey51
Explorer
Sep 21, 2016
Thanks, Ron. I just took the lock front and back off the door and lubricated the sliding parts and lever turning points. It made quite a difference in the ease of opening the door handle and the deadbolt slides better. I disabled the other lock a while back after it repeatedly locked itself.

Did you actually rekey one of the locks? I didn't see a way to get at the pins.
ron_dittmer
Explorer III
Sep 14, 2016
One thing certain about the Trimark entry door latch/lock system, it needs regular lubrication if your rig is out in the elements all the time.

If not working properly, I advise to remove the lock assembly and generously spray all sides of it with silicone spray, WD-40, or similar, then drip dry on paper towels for an hour, wipe it down and reinstall it.
Bordercollie
Explorer
Sep 14, 2016
I had problems with our Trimark lock assembly. Contacted Trimark and tech e-mailed me instructions on how to adjust the mechanism. It required a 7/16 deep socket to loosen a lock nut through a hole in the edge of the door. After a number of tries I got it adjusted and it has worked properly for years. Lubrication may be needed. Call Trimark and describe the problem clearly, maybe you'll be able to adjust it if not mechanism is not broken.
ron_dittmer
Explorer III
Sep 13, 2016
Just two weeks ago I removed my twin-key Trimark entry door (latch with dead bolt) assembly to re-key one of the two locks to match the other for the convenience of using a common key. I selected which lock to reuse based on the spare keys available. I liked the square handle key to easily identify it uniquely from the round shaped key used for all the storage compartments. So in the end I have the van key, the square main entry door key and a round third key for everything else.

The backing plate on the backside of the Trimark lock assembly was held in-place with what looked like four rivets, but was actually hammered alloy from the main cast alloy piece. I had to drill off the four heads to remove the plate to gain access to the tumblers. After re-keying was complete, I drilled a deep hole at each of the four points, then tapped threads for screws hold the plate back on. Two of the four holes needed to be drilled through to the side that shows so the threads could be cut properly. The holes that show through are trivial to me. One is hidden by the handle. The other is in view. I was going to put a dab of black paint on the hole but can't find the motivation yet to pull out the black paint. It's a small silver dot that I can hardly notice.
j-d
Explorer II
Sep 13, 2016
That's right, Drew! We have a residential deadbolt in addition to our RV latch, and we lock the deadbolt when we leave the coach, never the RV latch. Even then, the deadbolt has locked us out. I used to carry just a deadbolt key around the campground for when we go to the beach etc. NOW I carry a Ford key on that little ring. Three chances to get back in instead of only one.

We also turn the campground water off. Came back from the beach once to water pouring out of the coach. Bathtub filled the gray tank then overflowed. Faucets were OFF. Never figured out what caused it, so now we turn the water off at the source.

And... speaking of all this, don't leave the campground without retracting the Awning. We've secured several for other campers when a squall went through.
DrewE
Explorer II
Sep 13, 2016
rbreak wrote:
Thank you for all the replies and suggestions. I will take it apart this weekend and see if I can find anything broken or fixable. If not I will contact trimark as suggested and see what they will or wont do. I was venting a little in my original post (lol) I've cooled down some now, I just couldn't believe it only lasted 3 months. It made our camping trip last weekend a bit of a hassle, having to climb in through the cab every time you wanted to go back in, or leave the entry door cracked open, making the poor a/c work even harder in the 90* weather.

Be thankful you didn't happen to have a trailer or class A with only one door! (Not all trailers and class A's have only one door, of course, but quite a few do.)
winnietrey
Explorer
Sep 13, 2016
If it, broke and jammed, you may not be able to R@R it without considerable work. I really beat my door up doing it. sense then, there have been a number of posts on how to do it without damaging the door. May want to do a forum search. Good luck with it