our fridge is colder on propane than AC Why?

pianotuna wrote:
Hi Doug,

Can that "sleeve" also apply the 12 volt section on a 3 way fridge? Mine worked fine initially on 12 volt--but now hardly cools at all. How does one check this out?

dougrainer wrote:
It is also possible the sleeve that the 120 element slides into has slightly separated from the burner flue tube which will cause a loss of cooling on 120. Doug

Yes, but a 12 volt heat element is NOT designed for cooling DOWN a refer, only for maintaining the existing temp while in transit. Doug

Hi Doug,

Can that "sleeve" also apply the 12 volt section on a 3 way fridge? Mine worked fine initially on 12 volt--but now hardly cools at all. How does one check this out?

dougrainer wrote:
It is also possible the sleeve that the 120 element slides into has slightly separated from the burner flue tube which will cause a loss of cooling on 120. Doug

Why don't poeople just answer the origonal poster and quit bickering and insulting eachother?

pianotuna wrote:
Hi doug,

Then how do you account for the multiple reports of faster and better cooling using propane?

they dont.My 1200 LPG/120V fridge cools as good on 120V as LPG.I beleive LPG will cool it down faster but once its cooled off one heat source is as good as the other

Hi doug,

Then how do you account for the multiple reports of faster and better cooling using propane?

dougrainer is right on the money. The heating element must be going bad.

dougrainer wrote:
The RV refers will operate the SAME on LP or 120. The BTU's supplied by both LP and 120 are almost identical in cooling capacity.
IF you have a refer that is operating better on LP than 120, you need to verify that the 120 element is indeed pulling the required amperage. What Brand and model do you have? Has anyone changed the 120 element since it was new(they may have installed a lower wattage unit than is required). What is the line voltage? LOW AC voltage will cause lower heat from the heat element. It is also possible the sleeve that the 120 element slides into has slightly separated from the burner flue tube which will cause a loss of cooling on 120. I see you have a Newmar Ventana. IF Newmar installed a Norcold 4 door or a Dometic side by side refer, one of the 2 heating elements may be bad. Doug

If Doug billed (and got paid) for all his excellent advice here he could retire again! He must love the job :B

The RV refers will operate the SAME on LP or 120. The BTU's supplied by both LP and 120 are almost identical in cooling capacity.
IF you have a refer that is operating better on LP than 120, you need to verify that the 120 element is indeed pulling the required amperage. What Brand and model do you have? Has anyone changed the 120 element since it was new(they may have installed a lower wattage unit than is required). What is the line voltage? LOW AC voltage will cause lower heat from the heat element. It is also possible the sleeve that the 120 element slides into has slightly separated from the burner flue tube which will cause a loss of cooling on 120. I see you have a Newmar Ventana. IF Newmar installed a Norcold 4 door or a Dometic side by side refer, one of the 2 heating elements may be bad. Doug

I'm not sure if these previous threads are exactly on point, but worth a look.

gas or electric 1

gas or electric 2

gas or electric 3

Hi,

Statement removed because it may be in error. The rest is still valid so I'm leaving it in place.

You could add some fans to help with cooling the outside part of the fridge sucking more air up the "chimney". When I did this my initial cool down to first cycle on 120 volts dropped from 12 hours to 6 hours.

You could also add a fan internally inside the actual fridge compartment.