PLug into 220 v outlet?

An RV 50 amp outlet is wired exactly the same as a house 220v 50 amp outlet.

Agree with all of the above with the caution of one. Surprising, that not all "licensed electricians" understand RV30A IS NOT 220v. Getting most of your electronic replaced may be at their expense to replace but it is you that will be out the use of your RV until EVERYTHING that is damaged or destroyed is replaced.

margappy wrote:
HI again, Can the MH be plugged into a 220 outlet? (Rather than 50 amp 110V) Thank you.
2003 Newmar Scottsdale 35'

A 50amp RV outlet is 240vac and pretty standard for ranges in homes. The 120vac is what's actually used inside most RV's and is derived from one of the hot legs and the common neutral, which is split accordingly in the RV's circuit breaker box.
Where the problem comes in is with a 30amp service that is strictly 120vac and people who plug them in to a 240vac wired outlet that was done by mistake. A lot of residential electricians will just assume it's like an old clothes dryer and wire the outlet in this manner.

vermilye wrote:
First, the standard 50 amp RV outlet is a 120/240V 4 wire receptacle, not a 120v receptacle. It is the exact same one that is used for the range in a modern home (a NEMA Configuration 14-50R). It has both a ground and a neutral along with two hots.

Older ranges were typically wired with 3 wire connectors, (a NEMA Configuration 10--50R) - 2 hots & a combined ground/neutral. No adapter can make this a safe connector for a RV.

What he said.
I don't know why so many people can't understand that a 50 amp RV connection is 240/120v. As you as you mention 240v and an RV you get dire warning when in fact a proper 50A is just that, 240v.
OP, if the connection is a 50A 4 wire like used for a range plug right in. If it is anything other than that don't. A knowledgeable electrician can make an adapter to properly power an RV from just about any outlet you may encounter. The problem is there are lots of rather ignorant licensed electricians out there. I hear stories all the time of RV owners hiring an electrician to install a 30A RV outlet and he hooks it up to 240v. (Which is not correct, 30A RV connections are 120v only.

I'm not picking on electricians. I've got a master's license in two states.

It could end badly if you do

I can be done, but ONLY on the FOURTH OF JULY! ....:B:B...Dennis

Seriously, no...if you're electrically challenged, hire a professional. Too many bad things can happen....D

Thanks Dutch! And, others for their sage advice.

Larry

Dutch_12078 wrote:

lfeather wrote:
I'm not much of an electrical guy so be nice please. I understand the green wire is connected to earth, but I've never understood where the neutral wire (white in the diagram) is connected to. I haven't looked behind an electrical breaker panel lately, so is there a ground terminal or something back there to connect it to? Thanks in advance.

Larry

The neutral wire passes back to the main supply panel, and from there it's connected to the center tap of the service drop transformer that's connected to the high voltage supply lines from the power source, mounted either on a pole or in a locked cabinet when underground primary service is used. The neutral is typically bonded to an earth ground only at the main supply panel.

First, the standard 50 amp RV outlet is a 120/240V 4 wire receptacle, not a 120v receptacle. It is the exact same one that is used for the range in a modern home (a NEMA Configuration 14-50R). It has both a ground and a neutral along with two hots.

Older ranges were typically wired with 3 wire connectors, (a NEMA Configuration 10--50R) - 2 hots & a combined ground/neutral. No adapter can make this a safe connector for a RV.

I agree with @wny_pat that if you aren't much of an electrical guy, you should stay the heck out of the box.

That 'lectricity stuff can kill you. And other people.

@pat, that rev wired box is some scary stuff, there. I didn't know that the three light job couldn't detect it, so thank you for the heads up on that. I would have detected it with a volt meter, however, because I always check all three (four) pins against all the others. So, again, thank you for THAT.

Larry,
Seeing that in your own words, your "not much of an electrical guy" - you don't belong "behind an electrical breaker panel":E! Just my concerned opinion! Best left to those who know what is behind it and how to properly deal with it. If you get it wrong, it can kill you or burn down your house, and even take your family with it!!!

And here, is the perfect example of why you do not belong behind there. Three outlets that appear to be perfectly wired when using a 3-light tester, but one of the outlets isn't, and could hurt someone or burn down your house. That 3 light electrical tester is something we all probably have in out tool boxes, and have used to test circuits. If you check out the above link, you'll find out that it doesn't help us find some improperly wired outlets.