Propane furnace blows out

Removed electrode and gas valve, cleaned electrode and checked air gap at 1/8". checked and cleaned orifice, checked gas pressure, reassembled and no change. Installed new dinosaur fan 50 board and furnace took off as it should. Bad board.
Fan sail switch was a bit sticky at first but it cleaned up after a few cycles on and off. Road test to follow to see if it stays lit.
thanks for the help all!

Sorry about the confusion. The last time we used the furnace was last summer and it seemed to work ok. Now it is cold and the situation has changed. Tomorrow I am going to pull out the electrode.

Got to agree w/ cranky air pressures on different parts of a TT,MH, or 5ers
for that matter can be incredible.

Update 2: Point taken re throwing parts ! It appears that the igniter board is functioning correctly as it fires the burner but then does not see flame. I also noticed a tiny spark at the point were the electrode passes through the housing into the flame chamber when it was attempting to relite. Once the weather warms up an bit(-19 today) I will remove the valve/electrode assembly to check the condition of the porcelin and the electrode and the wiring at the electrode.

Hogrider1 wrote:
Update: Today (in minus 8 C weather)I tried to fire the furnace and after many tries it lit and ran. It kept showing 3 flashes (ignitor lockout)on each unsuccessful atempt. Since the furnace seemed to work in warmer weather I used my heat gun to warm the board and it now will not even try to lite. The blower cycles, the gas valve opens but it will not lite. After 3 attempts it shuts down and the LED flashes 3 times. So my suspicion is now a bad ignitor board. I am looking at purchasing a Dinosaur Fan50 plus pins board as a replacement.Any thoughts?

Yes, throwing parts is not a good idea until you have checked for a dirty burner. IF the Spark Electrode is cracked or defective and/or the spark wire is defective, you have spent money on a expensive board and no fix. You should hear the spark clicking, but you need to remove the spark plug wire from the board and verify the Piezo is indeed bad. IF the gas valve opens and the Piezo does not spark with the wire removed at the Piezo, then get a new board. Doug

Could be a bad igniter, or could just be a mud dubber nest on the igniter.

Update: Today (in minus 8 C weather)I tried to fire the furnace and after many tries it lit and ran. It kept showing 3 flashes (ignitor lockout)on each unsuccessful atempt. Since the furnace seemed to work in warmer weather I used my heat gun to warm the board and it now will not even try to lite. The blower cycles, the gas valve opens but it will not lite. After 3 attempts it shuts down and the LED flashes 3 times. So my suspicion is now a bad ignitor board. I am looking at purchasing a Dinosaur Fan50 plus pins board as a replacement.Any thoughts?

Thanks for the feedback. Yes the furnace runs fine when parked, never had an issue with it shutting down. As far as I can see up the exhaust tube there are no nests and I have a screen over the tube.The furnace is located a little further than half way down the passenger side and it has always failed to run while on the road. It is only an issue for a day or so when we run down from Canada in the winter.
I am not sure what the propane pressure is and will have to arrange to have it checked if this persists.

Has it always done this?

Have you made any changes or let it sit up a long time?

Check for a critter or insect nest in the intake / exhaust?

Could it be overheating and shutting down?

Best,
- bob

Typically this is a problem with truck campers due to the strange aerodynamics/shape of campers.
Usually NOT a problem with MHs.....smooth sides etc.

The furnace runs good when parked?? No problems lighting off/staying lite/blowing hot air??

Where on MH is furnace located outside?

One thing to check is that furnace is getting the right amount of propane.
Check that propane pressure at furnace is 11" WC with at least 50% of propane devices in service.
Other devices may work with lower propane pressure but the furnace is a hog and needs good/high pressure to sustain flame especially if air flow is disrupted.

Until you know that furnace propane pressure is correct......any other 'fixes' would be just chasing your own tail