Pulling a "Toad" on a Trailer?

I've got the all terrain towbar on the MH. Weight remains on the MH and easy to connect with no ball coupler alignment and no hassle disconnect. Invsibrake is 100% automatic, no switches, wires or air hose.

You might find a trailer light enough to work, especially if you go with one that is open in the middle, something like THIS Carry-on model.

Biggest problem you're going to have with using a trailer is not so much the total weight of the trailer and vehicle exceeding your hitch's 5000 lb limit, but with the tongue weight. Your hitch receiver is most likely limited to 5000 lbs total weight, and 500 lbs tongue weight. Frequently by the time you load a 4000 lb car on a flatbed trailer, the tongue weight it will place on the MH hitch receiver is going to be significantly more than 500 lbs. If you get much over that, its not just a matter of beefing up the hitch receiver to one that can handle more tongue weight. You have to also worry about the strengh of any frame extensions the manufacturer may have added to the back of MH chassis, load/weight shift on the MH tires and axles, etc.

This is the main reason that every time I get tempted to go the trailer route instead of 4 down towing, I quickly scrap the idea. Only way I'd seriously consider trailer towing, would be if I had a MH that came with a 10k hitch receiver from the factory, so I know it was designed to handle the heavier tongue weight.

Anyway, for these reasons, I definitely agree with advice already mentioned, that you need to hit the weigh scales before buying anything. Sure would hate for you to find out after you're stuck with the trailer, that it won't really work, either.

CA Traveler wrote:
Backing up a trailer vs flat tow is a very minor advantage for us. I've disconnected the toad 1 time in 10 years for that reason.

I once had to unhook in a firm's parking lot when I took a wrong route. yes it happens, no not often enough to prevent me from towing the easiest way possible, 4 down.
bumpy

Backing up a trailer vs flat tow is a very minor advantage for us. I've disconnected the toad 1 time in 10 years for that reason.

While a toad works best for us there are advantages and disadvantages to every setup. Dolly or trailer storage, parking and setup would be an disadvantage for us as we tend to have short stays over longer periods of time. Trailer maintenance is likely less but tires and brakes do need maintenance.

Tow bars and brakes are expensive. The tow bar can be used on the next vehicle, the base plate probably not. Originally we had a box brake because it was part of a tow package and could be used on another car. Still towing the same CRV after 10 years and now have a Invsibrake. Moving or setup on a second vehicle of a toad brake varies depending upon the type of brake, etc.

Probably not much resale value on towbars and brakes vs dolly or trailer. For me parking a trailer at a CG would be a PITA. Remove the car, drive to storage and then drive to the site. Parking in the site with the trailer restricts where in the site and implies longer site and hookups. A Dolly would be easier to store.

Some choose the lube pump or drive shaft disconnect option.

It sounds like a trailer is the best option for the OP at this point. Learn and determine any future changes.

et2 wrote:
As mentioned you need to know all your other MH's weights and where you stand. Including the GCWR & GAWR ... more weight in the rear hitch could put you over. " EVEN " if it's within the towable amount for the hitch.

correct. in general, the maximum amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following:

* the GCWR (gross combination weight rating) of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded for travel (includes fuel, fresh water, food, clothing, people, pets, supplies, etc.)

* the weight rating of your tow bar

* the weight rating of your hitch

If the PT is automatic it will require a trans. pump or dolly to tow it.

lordnorth wrote:
Has anyone tried pulling their "Toad" vehicle on a trailer? I'm talking about a Class A Gasser with the Triton V-10...

The reason that I ask is that I have a Subaru Outback.. All Wheel Drive means that I can't tow either 2 down or 4 down. I don't really want to go and purchase a dedicated Toad, but would like to have a transportation option.

Looking at potentially buying a 1000lb trailer (weight, not capacity), and loading my 3,386lb (Curb Weight) Outback on it. Total weight: 4386 -- which won't put me over GCWR for the Class A.

Do I need electric brakes? Surge brakes?

Thoughts?

Thanks!

Yes, you will need brakes!

I purchased a 17.5' Featherlite aluminum trailer last fall for just that purpose. Your trailer weight is off, though; the aluminum trailer is about 1,400 lbs and is a few hundred pounds lighter than a steel trailer. Pulling it with a 31' V10 gasser for about 2,500 miles from FL to Tx, Ar and TN, my mileage dropped from 8.0 mpg to 7.5 mpg, but I also had the gen running full time. The vehicle on the trailer was a 2010 Tacoma double cab long bed. No problems at all. You will feel it on large hills, of course, but nothing I didn't anticipate. The brakes are a must. Some states, like GA, will lay in wait to stop folks for no brakes. Not all states require them by law but if you're driving through..... Electric brakes are best, not surge. Taking it for the same trip again next month! The aluminum trailer costs more but is well worth the difference.

I always prefera trailer, actually aluminum with electric brakes and Michelin tires. Can't tell it's behind you.Most CGs have storage for trailers.