Questions on new purchase

From Bordercollie: "...requirements for having written proof of all manufacturer recommended inspections and services for all appliances, etc." That's where they really have you - who is going to do all the "recommended" stuff when it's not needed, only recommended. If you have a problem, even when the problem isn't related to some service not done, they can and often do (as frequently mentioned in MH magazines) reject the claim. So, unless you're buying a potential problem unit, and why would anyone do that, just do as so many have suggested, don't buy the extra cost warranty. JMHO.

We bought the warranty after the dealer's "closer" dropped the price from $4000 to $1700, never made a claim. The dealer did not provide a copy of the warranty policy or contract at the time of sale, had to ask for copy, read the fine print full of exclusions and requirements for having written proof of all manufacturer recommended inspections and services for all appliances, etc.
Your individual appliance, devices and housebox, etc warranties are good for three years and your cutaway van/chassis is usually warranted for 6 years or 60K miles whichever comes first before your extended warranty kicks in.

I don't know how many salesmen have told me "It has a 10 year roof warranty". Read the fine print.

As they say, "The devil is in the details". It's all in the fine print in the agreement. Ask to get a copy of the warranty papers, take them home and read them carefully, away from the dealer's shop. Do not rely on what the salesperson says, it must be in print. It seems that the problems for coverage comes up when the company tells you that: 1.) that particular item isn't covered. 2.) you didn't get the "right" prior approval for the repair. 3.) the repair facility you used wasn't on their approved list. It's always "Buyer Beware".

Sometimes peace of mind is worth it. If the warranty is actually any good.

I take the opposite approach. I don't buy any of them for anything. By pocketing the money, I'm sure I'm ahead even if a big ticket item fails. Although, when a car transmission cost us almost $3k, I wished I had bought the warranty. I was probably still ahead of the game, but it is painful at the moment.

Thanks for all your responses. I will try to make a good decision when I pick up the MH.

I have never bought an extended warranty in my life.

Either it works out of the box, or it doesn't. Extended warrantees were invented for the sole purpose of generating another income source for the dealers.

One big exception that comes to my mind is tablet computers and cell phones. Especially if a child is using them.

I went in to trade in our dropped ipad with a cracked screen for $50 (they just give you a brand new one, up to twice), and while I was there another guy was out $350 for his phone that he had somehow gotten wet.

And we certainly have no problem paying the fee for the Good Sam Roadside Assistance, especially with our 24-year-old RV it has been a life saver for us.

If I was spending $50K on an RV an extra $1000 for an extended warranty might be worth while. I'd have to look at the details.

I guess we are in the minority on this discussion. We have purchased an extended warranty on every car, RV we have purchased. And we have used those warranties on every vehicle. Example, in route to Maine a few years a go, towing a Airstream with our Suburban, the "burbs" a/c went our less than 500 mi out of the state. Found a Chevy dealer, they replaced the a/c, and in a few hours we were back on the road with $50 deductible. That policy more than paid for itself with one problem!
We have used ext. warranties on our Airstream, Forest River Lexington and our new Winnebago is still under warranty, but somewhere down the line, I know we will more than likely use it too. We have always negotiated with the dealer on our warranties and wanted to know in advance what the coverage is, etc. Yes the dealer makes money on them, they are negotiable, we always start by saying we want to check around for the best warranty. I can understand why many people don't believe in them, but in our experience, just a problem (or two) can pay for the warranty. We haven't had a problem finding someone to accept the warranties we've had….but do your homework.
Safe travels.
Andi

DaHose wrote:
Put $1800 aside for non-manufacturer warranty items and pocket the money if you don't need any extended warranty item repair at the end of 2 years. e

my point is that 1) most people don't pay cash for their toys.
2) the majority of the purchase is financed.
3) the amount of a warranty will increase the payment is miniscule, per month.
4) they don't have that $1,800 dollars or whatever cash on hand to put away.
5) if they put that $10 a month into a savings plan at the end of 2 years when all of the mfrs. warranties are expired, they will have amassed a grand total of $250 to cover a $1,200 refer, etc.
6) I agree if they can easily come up with the cost to repair a refer, diesel engine, multi $$$$ electronics, etc. then perhaps they don't need/want a warranty.
7) if a sudden $2,000 bill would cause you to have to park and not use your RV for 6 mos 1 year, etc. then perhaps a warranty would be indicated.


bumpy

No, not the payment cost Bumpy. The total amortized cost. The monthly payment increase across the life of the loan (let's say you decided on a 15 year loan for an $85K RV) is what you calculate.

So if you can really get a 2 year policy for $10 a month, that is $1800 over the life of the loan. Put $1800 aside for non-manufacturer warranty items and pocket the money if you don't need any extended warranty item repair at the end of 2 years. I am fortunate that I can repair an awful lot of stuff, but extended warranties are packaged and sold with full knowledge of the engineered obsolescence of the product being covered. The extended warranties are designed to take your money and expire just before the product breaks.

I do hear what you are saying, oldtrojan66. I work in IT and have a background in electronics repair. It is MADDENING how sensitive modern controller boards are to dirty power and it is even MORE maddening that you can't repair at a component level. Everything nowadays is designed to fail just out of warranty and it is always a complete board you have to buy. BLAH!!!!

Jose