Re- attach Ladder to MH

I may be wrong but I wouldn't leave any bolts loose. Maybe it's my RV but there is a lot of vibration as I drive down the road and a loose ladder would wear holes through the Filon panels of my RV.

Being somone too heavey.. I removed the Ladder and replaced it with a pair of custom made "J" hooks (Made from bumper diamond plate metal) these are lag boltd on with heavy bolts into studs and either of them holds my 300+ nicely.

Page 2:

I hung a convertable (Step/Extension) ladder on them,, Put a shower grab bar (Bath isl at home Depot) where the ladder can hit it instead of the motor home... And Strap it to the shower bar.

Works great.

sailor_lou wrote:
The most secure way is to spread the load from the back (inside the rear cap) using an aluminum plate or even fender washers. On my rig I have access up to the back of the cap from the bottom, above the battery area. If this is not possible, can you cut an opening in the back of a closet or cabinet? Good luck.

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy

I agree completely. If you can get some aluminum plate up there it would be a proper fix.

What about using some of those drywall toggle bolts that insert through a small hole and have metal wings that expand behind the panel?

pop-sicle, I think I like your idea. Most of the force on the ladder is downward, (200lbs) with some force outward.
I have been using a product named amazing goop, which looks like super sticky silicone, and has super holding power. Adding some plate aluminum under the stand offs will spread the load and solve the problem (I hope)
Thanks to all who responded.
James

Your own idea of aluminum plate is exactly what I would do.

I also worked in the marine industry for a while 25 years ago and when we attached an engine to the transom of the boat we would put silicon around the bolts if we ever had to take the engine back off you could lift the boat off the trailer before the silicone would let go.

Most people aren't aware of the holding ability of silicone and its merit as a glue.

So as said I would use a four by four piece of aluminum drill holes for ladder then counter sink them from rear use machine bolt from back with a nut on ladder side, cover back side of plate with silicone use a #10 screw in each corner when the silicone set's there will be no coming off....

I just came from Home Depot (Because that's all we have in town)where I was looking over their (quite extensive) collection of blind hole fasteners. There is something out there I suspect; at all of the various hardware stores. The trick with a ladder is to get good backup so the weight of a person does not cause the fasteners to pull out or crack the adjoining fiberglass. And of course on those holes where you can access from the inside by all means use as big and as much backup as you can. In some cases you may have to form a backup from hardwood. Oak works good for that.

The very top of the latter should be tighten down. The brackets coming down the latter just hold the latter in place. They shouldn't be a little loose because your end fiberglass cap will not hold any weight. If they are too tight it will crack your end cap.

Jacks,

Before the depression I did a lot of boat work and one of my favorite tricks and it works for most materials, but is best on fiberglass and wood is to get some thin epoxy (not JB weld) and disposable ear plugs (new). Use gloves and soak the plugs in epoxy and then squeeze then just enough to get them into the holes. Leave some protruding that you can trim off to have a flat surface. Screws will often go in without a pilot hole, but if you have trouble, drill one.

I actually like Lou's idea best, but that may be really difficult to do.

Matt

The most secure way is to spread the load from the back (inside the rear cap) using an aluminum plate or even fender washers. On my rig I have access up to the back of the cap from the bottom, above the battery area. If this is not possible, can you cut an opening in the back of a closet or cabinet? Good luck.

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy