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Garand1's avatar
Garand1
Explorer
May 28, 2013

Rear lighting ground(s)????

Hi everyone, We took our first somewhat long(300miles) trip this past weekend from home to a state park in Alex Bay Ny., and found I have a couple of issues. First of all, My generator is not picking up fuel from the tank, not sure if there is a leak in the steel and rubber tubes from the tank to the fuel pump or if the issue is inside the tank. The fuel pump seems to be working. That one shouldn't be that bad to figure out. If its an issue inside the tank or on top of the tank, I think I'll just hook it to an auxiliary tank in one of the base compartments. Though the 2nd issue I had is the one I'm asking you guys for the help with. I lost all exterior lighting to the rear of the MH, lost tail lights, lost signal, & flashers, lost rear and side markers, lost reverse lights, everything. I drove all the way home that way. I was thinking as I was driving.......I bet its a ground(s), more than likely a single ground takes care of the whole rear lighting system. So, when I got home I removed one tail light lens and jumpered from the bulb ground to frame ground and.......there was light!!!!!, everything worked, until I removed the jumper/test lead. So.......which brings me to my question to you guys. Do any of you know where the ground for the rear is? Does it come from up front? Or, is there a wire that goes from the lighting system to the frame. It would be really easy to just make a ground to the frame, but, I want to know where its supposed to be and make sure there is no other wires that may be damaged in the same wire bundle. Any help, knowledge, or wiring diagrams would be most helpful PS-1996 Bounder model M32h I believe. Ford F53 with a 460.
Class A
  • Jagtech's avatar
    Jagtech
    Explorer
    May 28, 2013
    As for the generator fuel issue, it may be a deteriorated rubber line at the tank, allowing the pump to suck air. Not uncommon on these rigs.
    As for the light problems, it certainly sounds like you're on the right track, but its going to take some searching to find that bad ground. Just try to follow the rear harness along and look for ground wires exiting from it. Good Luck!
  • PastorCharlie's avatar
    PastorCharlie
    Explorer
    May 28, 2013
    Turn on all lights...If you can access all the wires as they travel to the rear use a test light that clamps on the frame and use a stick pin to pierce each wire one at a time....the one that is not hot is the ground.
  • FIRE_UP's avatar
    FIRE_UP
    Explorer
    May 28, 2013
    Garand1,
    May I ask, how much fuel did you have in your tank at the time you tried to use the Gen? I'm sure you know this but, about 99.9% of the generators out there will quit when the fuel tank reaches around 25% or, 1/4 full. That is so they don't run you out of fuel when you're dry camping. Just thought I'd throw that at ya. But, as other posters have commented, you might have a cracked fuel line some place, and it's sucking air. If you do a small test, and take the fuel line off and route it to a separate stand alone fuel can and your gen runs fine, and, you've got a full tank of fuel too, then sounds definitely like a fuel line problem from the gen to the main tank.

    Now, as far as your lights are concerned, this may sound like the "easy" way out or, Rube Goldberg or, MacGyver or, whatever you want to call it but, making a new ground would by far, not only do th trick for you but, would not take very long either. I mean, who cars where a ground comes from? As long as it works, you're really not altering anything, just supplying a new, different ground, no big deal. But, if you're the industrious type, and would like to "dig around" and find that bad ground, then jump in there and have a good time. I've done it both ways on previous issues of mine.

    Good luck.
    Scott
  • Jagtech's avatar
    Jagtech
    Explorer
    May 28, 2013
    Just looked at my Mitchell's for that 1996 wiring diagram - the ground wire (black) is left front of engine compartment, top of radiator support, is supposedly rear L&R park/turn/stop lamps, as well as license lights.
  • Garand1's avatar
    Garand1
    Explorer
    May 29, 2013
    Hey Guys, thanks for your answers. I will probably not get the chance to work on it until this weekend. Knowing the ground is bad to the rear is the easy part......what I'm dreding is dealing with the gen set fuel issue. There is no way I'm going to mess with dropping the tank. There will be an alternate solution to dropping the fuel tank.
  • JimM68's avatar
    JimM68
    Explorer
    May 29, 2013
    it's fairly common for the rubber hose between the genny and the motorhome's fuel system to pinhole. Not enough to leak fuel, just to suck enough air to keep the genny from running.

    I would also mcgyver the ground. pick it up in the harness near the chassis stubs, splice in a new wire, and ground it to the frame.

    I would not go poking holes in the wire insulation, that is just asking for corrosion and future problems.
  • Doug_and_Cassi_'s avatar
    Doug_and_Cassi_
    Explorer
    May 29, 2013
    I'd set the fuel can outside the compartment. A leak in there could be nasty, especially with the compartment lights plus the fumes might get into the cabin.
  • Jagtech's avatar
    Jagtech
    Explorer
    May 30, 2013
    I was able to cut a removable hatch directly above the fuel pump, which allows easy access to remove the pump or lines. I can have that pump out and back in in about 30 minutes now, anywhere, anytime. The hatch is under the rear bed.
  • donhoward49's avatar
    donhoward49
    Explorer
    May 30, 2013
    On your Gen fuel line. mine would rot, right where it connects to the filter/fuel pump of the generator. I cut two inches off the first time and got by another year. Then replaced about half of the line this year. I did a splice up by the frame. So far I have not dropped the gas tank.
  • Garand1's avatar
    Garand1
    Explorer
    May 31, 2013
    Jagtech wrote:
    I was able to cut a removable hatch directly above the fuel pump, which allows easy access to remove the pump or lines. I can have that pump out and back in in about 30 minutes now, anywhere, anytime. The hatch is under the rear bed.


    My Bounder has basement compartments......where the tank is down center there is only about 10 or 12 inches deep and I couldn't squeeze in there......would be an awesome solution if I could.

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