Refrigeraor stopped working with 110 V AC

Many thanks! I'll look at it this weekend...we had 110 degrees of hot whether this past weekend and if you don't get out there to work on it early in the morning you'll roast in the unit in no time. They get hot like an oven in Arizona.
Marc

Had a similar problem with my old 1993 Norcold fridge, turns out one of the AC female wire terminals, positive feed cracked resulting in a poor contact. Once replaced, has worked like new ever since.

Easy check, plug the frig into an extension cord, that comes from a different source than the RV, this eliminates any problem with the RV.

Great advice guys thanks! Would the inside light still work if the internal fuse is out? Mine does. Is that particular fuse I need to locate inside the circuit for the element only?
Thanks Marc

It could be a blown fuse, or tripped GFI in the bathroom or another GFI location. Check the plug in the refrigerator outdoor compartment, plug in something like a light or radio. If it does not work, look for a tripped circuit breaker or GFI. If it works, there might be a bad fuse on the refrigerator circuit board, or a bad heating element.

It could also be a bad heating element. While they are easy to remove before they go bad, sometimes the 'go bad' process increases their diameter, and removing them can crack the tubing, and basically destroy the $1000+ refrigerator. So if the heating element does not 'slip' out with less than about 20 pounds of force, I would stop running it on electric, and run it only on propane.

Besides it works better on propane than electric. Electric is only about 275 watts, or around 900 Btu's. The gas burner is 2,200 Btu's or about twice the heat input to the boiler, separating more ammonia mixture per hour, and cooling it better.

Running on gas is not all that expensive. 95,000 Btu's of propane means about 45 hours run time per gallon of propane. This will be between 3 and 8 days run time per gallon, depending on the outside air temp.


Fred.

Check outlet fridge plugs into for 120V AC power

If outlet has power....

Check fuse on control module (under cover on circuit board) typically 5A glass fuse. That is fuse for electric heat element.
If blown...replace fuse and element
If fuse is OK.....replace element

The above are generic solutions.