Removal of graphics

cgmartine wrote:
Ok. Further on my decal quest. Tried it again today, Monday. I placed the heat gun (hair drier) closer to the fiberglass, about 3 inches away, but moved it continually. I think the hair drier is probably best than an industrial type heat gun, which might produce too much heat. The first time I tried it last week, I was afraid to get it any closer than 5 to 6 inches. This time I tried it in combination with the putty knife, but it is hard, and extremely slow. I then tried the hair drier, followed immediately by the eraser wheel, and made faster progress because the decal was soft and pliable. The wheel did not need as much pressure and it was faster going. I was able to do about a six square inch area in about 20 minutes. This method is easier. As far as doing the edges, it can be done, but no heat should be applied, and if done with the eraser wheel, very little pressure should be applied, otherwise, it will lift up pieces of decal. One edge of the eraser wheel should be on top of the decal, and the other edge of the wheel over the edge of the decal, following the outline of the decal. If the entire surface of the eraser wheel comes into contact with the edge of the decal, it will begin to lift it up. Pheew.....I was a novice yesterday, and today, I am an expert!

I suggested earlier to use the hair drier...but also have it in the sun. I did this, and my decals came off rather easily.

Ok. Further on my decal quest. Tried it again today, Monday. I placed the heat gun (hair drier) closer to the fiberglass, about 3 inches away, but moved it continually. I think the hair drier is probably best than an industrial type heat gun, which might produce too much heat. The first time I tried it last week, I was afraid to get it any closer than 5 to 6 inches. This time I tried it in combination with the putty knife, but it is hard, and extremely slow. I then tried the hair drier, followed immediately by the eraser wheel, and made faster progress because the decal was soft and pliable. The wheel did not need as much pressure and it was faster going. I was able to do about a six square inch area in about 20 minutes. This method is easier. As far as doing the edges, it can be done, but no heat should be applied, and if done with the eraser wheel, very little pressure should be applied, otherwise, it will lift up pieces of decal. One edge of the eraser wheel should be on top of the decal, and the other edge of the wheel over the edge of the decal, following the outline of the decal. If the entire surface of the eraser wheel comes into contact with the edge of the decal, it will begin to lift it up. Pheew.....I was a novice yesterday, and today, I am an expert!

I have been very interested in this topic as I have some decals that are not faded but do show some wear just on the edges of them on the drivers side of my RV. I was wondering if anyone has just sanded the decal edges to smooth and then applied new decals over the old ones?

I had to buy the eraser wheel on EBay. I used it today, and although it works better than simply using a putty knife, it is still slow going. My decal is straight, about six feet long, and goes from about 7 inches on one end, to about 1 inch on the end other. At the rate I am going, it will probably take six months to take it all off, even if I work at it daily. I only used the eraser wheel about 20 minutes and it already showed signs of wear. I am probably going to need two more eraser wheels. It's like using a giant round eraser. Tomorrow I will try a combination of heat gun, putty knife and eraser wheel. It is best to use a battery powered, variable speed drill with a reverse in order to get at the edges of the decal from different angles, otherwise you have to turn the drill to different hand positions. This will be the last decal I ever remove in my life. From now on, I will mount new stickers over the old stickers.

I used the heat from the sun and a blow dryer...and lots of patience.

I'm off to Home Depot to buy an 8 in. eraser wheel. I'm only doing one decal, so that should be sufficient. The next decal I get, I'm placing it right over the old one. Mine are in relatively good shape, but faded a little, and since they are so thin, on on top of another should be hardly noticed. I should have done the same with the first one.

How does that 3M wheel wear? Is one enough for the whole RV?

I had the same problem with decals on my daughters truck.

I tried everything and I mean everything, that has been posted here and got the same results as you, just flakes and pieces.

I know that it has been said before here but the only success that I had was with the 3M Decal Remover Wheel

It is pricy but I didn't want to spend the next year doing this :B

Ok. I see that 3M does make a General Purpose Adhesive Remover, but that product appears to be for removing the gummy residue left behind. In my case, the small area I have been able to free the decal from, is extremely clean and free from any residue, so I need a product that I can use to aid in the actual removal of the decal. Thx.

I started the removal process of one of my motorhome's decals, and applied the heat gun with moderate heat and at a safe distance, but the decal is extremely thin hard to remove and will only come off in tiny pieces. I tried using a credit card to pry underneath, but it is extremely slow going. At this rate, it will take me a year to remove a single decal. It will not come off in a single piece. I doubt a nail polish remover will work. Does 3M make a product that is safe on fiberglass?