removing bolt with impact wrench

Executive wrote:

msmith1199 wrote:

Executive wrote:
Make sure they're not LEFT hand threads!

Scott's "trick" has been used for years and works better than anything else. At the very least, get a can of penetrating oil, I like PB Blaster, (Home Depot/Lowes/Napa). Shoot if well and let it sit overnight. Put the correct size socket on it, rap it a couple times with a mallet and then try getting it off. An impact wrench should be a LAST resort!

Just out of curiousity, when was the last time you checked this fluid reservoir? It shouldn't be that tight in only a years time right..:W....Dennis

Why would there be left hand threads on something like this? Made in England?

Who knows? My pop-up had left hand threads on ONE wheel only. The other was right handed. Drove me nuts until I figured it out..:S..Dennis

The only time I've ever seen left handed threads is on something that spins (like a wheel on a pop-up) where the spin may otherwise unwind the bolt. However I don't know why they would put that on a pop-up unless there was only one big lug nut holding on the wheel, versus five lugs?

msmith1199 wrote:

Executive wrote:
Make sure they're not LEFT hand threads!

Scott's "trick" has been used for years and works better than anything else. At the very least, get a can of penetrating oil, I like PB Blaster, (Home Depot/Lowes/Napa). Shoot if well and let it sit overnight. Put the correct size socket on it, rap it a couple times with a mallet and then try getting it off. An impact wrench should be a LAST resort!

Just out of curiousity, when was the last time you checked this fluid reservoir? It shouldn't be that tight in only a years time right..:W....Dennis

Why would there be left hand threads on something like this? Made in England?

Who knows? My pop-up had left hand threads on ONE wheel only. The other was right handed. Drove me nuts until I figured it out..:S..Dennis

Executive wrote:
Make sure they're not LEFT hand threads!

Scott's "trick" has been used for years and works better than anything else. At the very least, get a can of penetrating oil, I like PB Blaster, (Home Depot/Lowes/Napa). Shoot if well and let it sit overnight. Put the correct size socket on it, rap it a couple times with a mallet and then try getting it off. An impact wrench should be a LAST resort!

Just out of curiousity, when was the last time you checked this fluid reservoir? It shouldn't be that tight in only a years time right..:W....Dennis

Why would there be left hand threads on something like this? Made in England?

One more vote for PC Blaster and at least overnight soaking.
Common error is that amateurs take soft fitting for the size of the hex on it.
Even the hex can be good size, the fitting can't take too much torque. Good idea is to find breaking torque for the fitting and not to exceed 80% on tries.
This way $20 job will not turn into $500 one.

Thanks to all for the input, I will try the PB Blaster (I have that) over a couple of days (I have time) and a cheater bar first, then The freezing heating thing. The warning off of using the impact was what I was looking for. I just bought the rv, a 2000 model with only 15,000 miles on it, great condition, most of the proper maintenance was done, but not this. Making sure everything is take care of before my first trip.

PB Blaster is good, but Kroil is even better if you can spray it a few times a day for a couple of days. Good luck.

Make sure they're not LEFT hand threads!

Scott's "trick" has been used for years and works better than anything else. At the very least, get a can of penetrating oil, I like PB Blaster, (Home Depot/Lowes/Napa). Shoot if well and let it sit overnight. Put the correct size socket on it, rap it a couple times with a mallet and then try getting it off. An impact wrench should be a LAST resort!

Just out of curiousity, when was the last time you checked this fluid reservoir? It shouldn't be that tight in only a years time right..:W....Dennis

jluke wrote:
I just tried to check the fluid level in the parking brake assembly on my 2000 F53 frame Holiday Rambler and could not break the bolt loose with my sockets. It is either frozen on there or I have become too old and feeble (my wife's explanation). Can I try my electric impact wrench on this or do I run the risk of shearing off the bolt head? Seems like such a samll thing to ask on here, but having suffered the consequences of my actions over the years, thought it prudent.

I'm assuming you're speaking of the oil fill/check plug in the parking brake assembly behind the transmission, correct? If so, I can't imagine that plug being that tight. But, if you say it is, well, then it must be.

I have one suggestion for you. If it's that tight, here's a procedure that's worked more than once for me but, it involves some tactics and, a bit of money.

I have a can of "Freeze" hanging around for various reasons. And, I have my handy propane torch for various plumbing needs. What I've done in the past with stubborn bolts, sensors and more is,

1. Heat the area immediately around the problem plug with your propane torch. No need to be there for hours, just a couple of minutes will do the trick. Then, immediately put down the torch, and pickup your can of Freeze and spray the bolt head for about 3-4 seconds. What that does is shrink the bolt threads while they've been expanded on the parent side by the heat.

The bolt/plug should pop loose without too much issue.
Scott

I would start by using some penetrating lube on it. Let it set for at least an hour and try again. The next step would be to use some heat on the nut. Hitting it with an impact if it's seized is an invitation to shearing it off and causing more problems. I would only use this as a last resort.

First thing is to have the correct sized six point socket.
Then a light hit with impact, or you could try tightening slightly then loosen with breaker bar and cheater.