Replacing shower sky light... How?

I think you're supposed to put the tape down first (or on the edge of the skylight and then the sealant on top of that. At least that's how the service manager at the shop told me how to do it. I'm in the process of replacing most of the plastic parts on my roof now.

For sealant removed get this: Oscillating Tool

The oscillating took takes the old sealant right off. Just make sure to hold it level so it doesn't dig into the fiberglass.

Here's what I used to seal the sky light:



GE Silicone II.

Even though I have a roll of Eternabond on hand, I think I'm going to leave it as is so I can periodically inspect the seal.

MustangGT wrote:
I wonder which option, the self-leveling caulk or the tape has the best durability? the factory used the caulk on my roof stuff.

I used them all . . .

After removing the old skylight & caulk, I applied butyl rubber caulk (Surebond SB-140) in a continuous bead under the skylight. This is what Newmar recommended.

Then after screwing down the skylight, I put Dicor over each screw. When that cured in a day, I put Eternabond along all the edges of the skylight.

Eternabond is supposed to be good but the Dicor on my skylight has lasted through almost ten years of mostly western sun and is still in great shape

I wonder which option, the self-leveling caulk or the tape has the best durability? the factory used the caulk on my roof stuff.

Winnebago uses Dicor self leveling sealant on the skylight.

My new sky light finally arrived. Fortunately, it is the right one, it matches up perfectly with the old one. I'll be installing it as soon as there comes a day with zero percent chance of rain.

The price of the sky light was pretty reasonable, about $130; roughly the same as generic sky lights available on-line.

But a tiny piece of spring steel that serves as a screen door catch was $7.50!! Oh well, at least it was available and the correct part. :-)

To remove the old sealant use a heat gun to soften it and a plastic scraper to get it up. Use heat sparingly so you don't damage the fiberglass. Once softened it comes up pretty easy. With the top cover out clean the old butyl sealant. Replace all the old steel hardware with stainless the same size or one size larger in diameter. If you have to drill new holes in the cover go slightly larger than the screw size so you don't crack the cover. When you screw down the cover pre-coat the threads with a bit of caulk. Once all the hardware is in place cover with EternaBond tape. I used 2" EternaBond roof seal around the top edge and EternaBond double stick micro sealant putty tape around the base. No liquid sealants necessary when using tape.

First make sure that what you get is what you need to fit the hole. Un screw the many screws from the top. You should have 6/8 screws inside to hold the inside cover. Mark it for a corner with tape. Remove the sealant from the outside, lift out unit. Clean all remaining sealant off. Temp fit and align up in hole. My screws did not line up so had to drill all new. Start in a corner and drill one, check alignment and then the next corner. Check Alignment and one more hole with screw. If everything is good drill the rest. I replaced all mine screws with new. Mark two spots with marker or tape. Remove and lay down beads of sealant. I went to Lowes and they have roll sealant. Start installing the screws and do not tighten down, just snug all the way around, Take two or three time around and just a 1/4 turn to you get even flow on the sealant flowing out.