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DavidHarvey22's avatar
May 17, 2013

Roadtrek water pump

We just bought a 1997 Roadtrek 210 Popular. I've been getting systems running. The previous owner didn't use it much for camping, so though it had been previously winterized, I had to replace the shut off valve to the potable water tank and a vacuum breaker at the outside shower faucet. No leaks w/home pressure. On the tank, the Flowjet pump runs continuously with minimal pressure. All lines were turned on to eliminate air, but the pump just runs. It looks relatively straight forward to replace the pump except that the hard-to-reach back water connection looks to be threaded on to the tee that goes up and down. The near connection to the pump is threaded with a compression connection to the water supply. How can I remove the rear pump connection? It's tight between the wall and water heater below the galley shelf.
Thanks for any help.

8 Replies

  • Hey DavidHarvy22

    My pump has been burping occasionally, and I was hoping it may just be a speck of dirt that may work thru but after your problem with the back fitting I thought I had better have a plan, just in case. My RT is a 99 -190 Versatile and the water heater is on the other side of the van but I still have the same type of connection right tight to the wall under the stove. After a lot of crawling around under the van with a flashlight I finally found that the tubing runs on the outside of the frame but is covered by a black fiber panel which appears to be removable by removing the LR wheel thus allowing access to that fitting. If that doesn't work I guess i can always use your plan "B".
    Bob
  • Hey, this is davidharvey my question was how to remove the back connection of the water pump. My plan B was to remove the motor from the pump which should allow the pump to rotate in order to remove the threaded coupling to the water distribution tee. It worked fine, but who designed these sytstems? By removing accessible water fittings and mechanical connection to the bulkhead, I removed the screws holding the pump to the motor. Two were relatively easy and the third was done with mirrors, flashlight, a stubby phillips, a pair of pliers and lots of creative discription. The motor was removed, the pump was unscrewed and now i will replace it with modifications to make it servicable in the future. I found gasket debris in the pump.
    Does anyone else fix their campers? Seems like this kind of question must be asked once in a while. Where's the love?
  • A third for checking to see if the tank fill valve is closed. A small non visible leak will cause the pump to cycle but not run continuously. I was going crazy with the pump running a second every minute with everything off. Finally found that the tank fill valve was just a shy short of off, a 1/16 move solved the problem.

    Bob
  • BillJ999 wrote:
    Before changing the pump, make sure that the city water connection valve is in the proper position. If not, the pump will run all the time and you'll have little or no pressure at the faucets.

    Bill


    I totally agree with Bill. Any open valve/facet will cause exactly the issue you're having!
  • Before changing the pump, make sure that the city water connection valve is in the proper position. If not, the pump will run all the time and you'll have little or no pressure at the faucets.

    Bill
  • Can't hurt to replace with a variable speed Shurflo water pump, which helps on noise.
  • don,t you just love the designers of these rigs? bet they never once had to pull the pump. ok, if at all possible cut a nice neat hole in the wall to excess pump, after the repair make a frame with nice oak or walnut ,put the cut out piece in the frame.it,ll look like it was always there.