Forum Discussion
DrewE
Jul 23, 2018Explorer II
Backup camera wires could be run externally, if that's more convenient, but it would not be a terrible idea to provide some protection from the elements (split loom tubing, for instance) and especially avoid junctions/splices in the external length if possible. All Electronics is one place that has pretty good prices on split loom tubing in bulk, though if that's the only thing you get the shipping and handling may be too much.
If your compartment clips are like mine, little spring-loaded hinged claw things, then they are simply attached with a couple of screws under the hinged clip part. Replacement is just removing those screws, cleaning the outside surface of the RV up, and screwing in a new one with appropriate sealant applied. I've used plumber's putty for this (and other similar sorts of externally mounted little doo-dads) and it's worked just fine so far, though that's not the most common or traditional sealant.
Most solar installs are done without a backing plate as such; the roof structure provides plenty of support strength in itself in general. If you locate the roof rafters/trusses, you can attach the mounting brackets directly into them through the skin and base for extra strength.
For a bike rack, I've only used a hitch-mounted rack (one listed for RV applications).
More generally, you'd have to either take the interior wall apart or go through the whole wall structure to get a backing plate in from the inside. Typical wall construction would be a sheet of luan on the inside (with vinyl or whatever interior finish), maybe an inch of rigid foam insulation, a sheet of luan on the outside, and the filon outer skin, all glued together. There are studs and other framing interspersed through the foam part, made of either wood or metal. It's not really designed to be disassembled and put back together again.
If your compartment clips are like mine, little spring-loaded hinged claw things, then they are simply attached with a couple of screws under the hinged clip part. Replacement is just removing those screws, cleaning the outside surface of the RV up, and screwing in a new one with appropriate sealant applied. I've used plumber's putty for this (and other similar sorts of externally mounted little doo-dads) and it's worked just fine so far, though that's not the most common or traditional sealant.
Most solar installs are done without a backing plate as such; the roof structure provides plenty of support strength in itself in general. If you locate the roof rafters/trusses, you can attach the mounting brackets directly into them through the skin and base for extra strength.
For a bike rack, I've only used a hitch-mounted rack (one listed for RV applications).
More generally, you'd have to either take the interior wall apart or go through the whole wall structure to get a backing plate in from the inside. Typical wall construction would be a sheet of luan on the inside (with vinyl or whatever interior finish), maybe an inch of rigid foam insulation, a sheet of luan on the outside, and the filon outer skin, all glued together. There are studs and other framing interspersed through the foam part, made of either wood or metal. It's not really designed to be disassembled and put back together again.
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