RV Selection & Electrical Question

Wow, this is a lot of good perspectives! To be honest, I do not mind running a separate cable for each setup, but I am concerned about the management of each of the CG's with regards to their acceptance of the presence of a second cable. Should the second cable be inadvertently unplugged, it is not a big issue, but I would be worried about them not allowing me to plug it back in, and being forced to utilize the available circuit in the MH. Because of this, I think a 50 amp rig would be better (even if the amperage is not needed, it will provide piece of mind that I will not need to have an awkward encounter with the management).

My final question is this: As I look, there is a fairly big array of units available. So, I was wondering your opinions on these options:

1) Private Seller vs Dealer (with a private mechanic inspection for either)

2) It appears that I can get a unit that is newer with a good bit of miles or an older one with lower miles. Do you have a preference which you prefer? In other words, is it better to have a newer unit that has moved more or an older unit that has been more stationary? I know that maintenance is a primary concern, but lets assume that both are equally maintained.

3) Is there anything else you think I should know when starting to look at rigs?

Thanks again to everyone!

Mich F wrote:
I believe toedtoes has the simplest/cheapest solution. Actually it doesn't have to be that complicated. You should be able to just plug in an extension cord into a campground pedestal and just plug your oxygen concentrator into the extension cord. Most motor homes are going to have at least one place where an extension cord could be snaked into the body of the unit. Most pedestals will have 30A service and 1 or 2 15 or 20A outlets.

I almost had suggested to just run an extension cord from the device to the pedestal, but I thought since the RV would be moved every 1 to 1-1/2 months for 3 years (about 24 to 36 moves), the OP might not want to have to deal with threading the cord through a compartment with every move.

A full-time device with that much draw is not going to do well in a RV with 30 amp electrical system, if you intend to run air conditioning. Loads are going to be unpredictable with out a load manager (which rarely includes convenience outlets). The circuits you might choose to use may or may not have 6-10 amps available depending what else is running. You could probably make it work if you understood the 120V power distribution of each RV you considered buying, but information with that detail is seldom unavailable.

In a 50 amp rig, you will still have issues with which branch circuits you can safely use, which might be susceptible to other loads. At least you should not have to worry about the main. Many 50 amp RV rigs have one A/C and all the convenience outlet and "hard wired" circuits on one leg of the dual 50 amp, and the second (and third, fourth) air conditioners on the other. They also often have power management systems for running on a single leg. You will not see this kind of electrical sophistication in Class C RVs, more often it is a feature of larger Class A motorhomes, those large enough to need at least two conditioners for comfort.

Since it is a medical device... verify with management that two cords is OK.
A few say no and getting unplugged could be inconvenient.

I believe toedtoes has the simplest/cheapest solution. Actually it doesn't have to be that complicated. You should be able to just plug in an extension cord into a campground pedestal and just plug your oxygen concentrator into the extension cord. Most motor homes are going to have at least one place where an extension cord could be snaked into the body of the unit. Most pedestals will have 30A service and 1 or 2 15 or 20A outlets.

I am an electrician and a heating guy.
First check that the heating system in what ever RV you pick, will keep you warm in the winter. Most RV's will not in the Northern States.
And you will quite likely will have to refill your LP tank every few days.
If you use electric heat, it may not keep your water pipes from freezing.

Most cords that plug into the power posts, terminate in the electrical boot right below the breaker panel inside the coach. I would think the biggest problem changing to a 50 amp panel would making it fit. I'm assuming that a 50 amp panel is physically bigger.

Good Luck,
Dusty

I don't think you will have any issues that can't be managed on 30 amps.
Worst case any decent RV shop can upgrade you to 50a supply.

I don't do a lot of hookup RVing (I do dry camping), but the pedestals I've seen mostly have one of each (15amp, 30amp, and 50amp). I believe I saw one with 2-15amp, 1-30amp, and 1-50amp.

I am not an electrician, nor do I have a lot of experience with RV electrical systems, so I will let others provide technical knowledge. I'm just looking at this from a "practical" and "as little expense required" to get what you need. Re-wiring for 50 amp could be a LOT of work as you'd have to upgrade all the wiring inside the RV (meaning you'd have to get into the walls). Adding a 30amp secondary would work, but you'd end up having to use an adapter to plug it into the 50amp or 15amp plug (since the 30amp would be used by your main power supply and you're likely only going to have one 30amp outlet).

swwyld12 wrote:
with a standard 50 or 30 amp hookup, are there normally traditional power outlets available?

yes

I am very interested in the idea of adding a 15 amp outlet to be used in conjunction with the 30 or 50 amp hookup for the unit. My only question there is this: are these types of hookups normally available? That is, with a standard 50 or 30 amp hookup, are there normally traditional power outlets available?

Financially, I do not plan to finance (cash) as I think its better for negotiating a better price.