RV to power home temp

I have an old 4500 watt generator and I put in a 6 circuit manual transfer switch. Furnace and smoke detectors are on one, microwave two, fridge three, garage four, part of master bedroom five, bathroom lights and fans and alarm system six.

pianotuna wrote:
wa8yxm,

The link gives an "access denied" error.

Fixed it. Don't know why it was wrong since I used copy and paste commands but I fixed it.

wa8yxm wrote:

turbojimmy wrote:
This is the one I got. It was easy to install (if you're comfortable messing around with your breakers).

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-10-Circuit-30-Amp-Manual-Transfer-Switch-Kit-310CRK/205793178

THough not the EXACT one I used (Different arrangement of switches)

Close enough (Same concept) This is the type I recommend. Let me see if I can find the exact one I used..

Link to Lowes


This one is as close as I can get (the meters at the bottom were different else it's the same box) this is a 30 amp box Mine may have been heavier but frankly 30 amp was the size of the breaker I fed it with 30 amps at 120 volts times two legs that is. only used about half that to keep needed systems in house live. No washer or Dryer or central A/C but all lights save the indicator in the hall TV Kitchen computers and communications and Furnace. that's the biggie. If I have to live with fans to keep cool OK but if the pipes freeze MAJOR ISSUE

Fixed the link. You can replace the circuit breakers in the one Home Depot sells, too. I moved a couple of them around.

30 amps is plenty for me since I have NG and propane fuel. The only thing I can't do is the central air. I had to prioritize circuits so I don't have washer, dryer, dishwasher or microwave (I can run an extension cord to it if necessary). What I do have is most lights in the house, fridge, both furnaces, water heater and most electronics (cable modem, router, switches, TVs, etc.). I also have the kitchen outlets powered up so I have to be careful no one tries to make waffles and coffee at the same time :)

A couple of cautions:
- Your GFCI-protected breakers will no longer be ground-fault protected - protection should be at the outlets. Ditto for AFCI breakers.
- Multi-wire branch circuits (MWB) need to wired to the opposing legs of the switch. I had a few and it was quite the brain teaser to get them wired up properly. BOTH branches of a MWBC need to run through the switch.
- The switch comes with enough cable to wire up your breakers if you place the box next to your main panel. In my case this was nowhere near where my generator was. I had to run about 75-feet of heavy gauge cable to get to the twist-lock connector by my garage.

It was a bit of work but SO worth it in the long run. I can plug in any power source on the side of the house and safely switch on the backup power to 1 or all of the 10 backed-up circuits.

wa8yxm,

The link gives an "access denied" error.

turbojimmy wrote:
This is the one I got. It was easy to install (if you're comfortable messing around with your breakers).

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-10-Circuit-30-Amp-Manual-Transfer-Switch-Kit-310CRK/205793178

THough not the EXACT one I used (Different arrangement of switches)

Close enough (Same concept) This is the type I recommend. Let me see if I can find the exact one I used..

Link to Lowes


This one is as close as I can get (the meters at the bottom were different else it's the same box) this is a 30 amp box Mine may have been heavier but frankly 30 amp was the size of the breaker I fed it with 30 amps at 120 volts times two legs that is. only used about half that to keep needed systems in house live. No washer or Dryer or central A/C but all lights save the indicator in the hall TV Kitchen computers and communications and Furnace. that's the biggie. If I have to live with fans to keep cool OK but if the pipes freeze MAJOR ISSUE

This is the one I got. It was easy to install (if you're comfortable messing around with your breakers).

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Reliance-Controls-10-Circuit-30-Amp-Manual-Transfer-Switch-Kit-310CRK/205793178

AllegroD wrote:
There are proper and legal interlock devices to prevent backfeeding to the commercial pole. It requires some research in your municipality to ensure you comply with law. Here is an option. Interlockit

BTW. The reason I went with the through the wall setup was because of how RV gens are setup.

THat kit is good and meets code in most places far as my limited knowledge knows. but I look at it and imagine someone figuring how to pry it up so as to override it and leave both breakers on.

The switch panel I used. NO such option. Home Depot/Lowes/et-al carry the panels.

There are proper and legal interlock devices to prevent backfeeding to the commercial pole. It requires some research in your municipality to ensure you comply with law. Here is an option. Interlockit

BTW. The reason I went with the through the wall setup was because of how RV gens are setup.

camperdave wrote:
I run an extension cord from the RV to the house, under the door, and plug in the refrigerator. Easy cheap and safe.

A good properly sized door closes very tight and can cut the cord either fully or partially leaving exposed (And thus dangerous) wires.

Which is why I strongly suggest a proper inlet/transfer

Also most extension cords of the type you used are light weight OK for a Fridge. USELESS for the furnace. It was.. as I recall.. new years or NY-eve when I came home from Church and found Frosty the Air-Blown inflatable snowman sleeping on the job (lost power) so I needed the hard wired furnace. not just the fridge and freezer.. The 40 amp rated cord and 30 amp connectors and circuits in the RV delivered around 1700 watts to the house (per the watt meters built in to the panel)

Click and I had lights in the basement.
Click I had FURNACE
Click I had Fridge or freezer
Click the other one
Click and the kitchen counter was live (Microwave)
Click and more lights (upstairs save for the hall)
Click and computers and internet stuff
Click and Televisions and radios

The hall light was then turned on and when it finally lit (It was NOT on the transfer panel) we clicked back and shut off the generator. Left the cord hooked up for next failure.

Even without the RV you can plug in a 3500 watt Portable and ... the house only needed half that. (I would still suggest at least 3500 watt)

We have a gen-tran-panel, and a cord the link the motorhome to the house.

but we normally just move into the M/H.