Something drawing on my battery

I decided to go with the battery disconnect. I purchased a good quality one for each vehicle. I don't use them on a regular basis but one vehicle has to be stored because we only have one parking spot. I will use the disconnect on the vehicle that will be stored for a few months.

I intend to look at the isolator. It is quite likely that is the problem.

Thanks everyone for your input. I now have a temporary solution to the problem at a very reasonable price and can now look for other solutions as we get time and opportunity to do so.

The isolator is not part of the factory chassis (vehicle). Its an add on by the RV maker. They're also use in marine applications. etc.

Wiki and Gooogle are your friends

senf wrote:
nbking - I expect you have a faulty separator/isolator. I had similar symptoms and went through all the diagnostic motions. Finally came to the separator - replaced it and and have had not trouble since. At the same time I had a manually operated emergency start system installed using the coach batteries ( just like I had on our 96 Dodge RT).

Is this part of the vehicle or part of the motor home?

Could be a faulty isolator or maybe the battery was defective and ready for replacement. Regardless, i have used a small solar panel plugged into my 12v accessory socket and have never had a starting problem and battery is now over 6 years old with no problem after load testing. I have used knife switches in my previous 2 rvs and never a problem with electronics and ECU relearns quickly re txn shift pattern. Weak batteries dont hold charges for long so maybe the new battery did the trick.

AL

nbking - I expect you have a faulty separator/isolator. I had similar symptoms and went through all the diagnostic motions. Finally came to the separator - replaced it and and have had not trouble since. At the same time I had a manually operated emergency start system installed using the coach batteries ( just like I had on our 96 Dodge RT).

I have a Priority Start on my 04 Roadtrek. Keep in mind the Priority Start will continue to draw battery power after disconnecting the chassis power from the battery. After a few days of this draw, the battery will be dead. Manufacture recommends you start the vehicle every 60 to 90 days. My RT will draw a battery down in about a week (seems to be a common problem on this model). My solution is the Priority Start on the positive terminal for times something may be left one and a disconnect on the negative terminal for longer storage times.

If your house/coach battery is hooked up to the alternator to charge while driving, the isolator (hopefully there is one) between the two could be malfunctioning, therefore not isolating any drain coming from the house battery. Batteries will try to equalize. I doubt your house/coach battery disconnect seperates this connection.

I wouldn't want to use a battery disconnect swich on the engine battery. Aside from losing radio presets/disabling remote unlock/etc, the car's computer (ECU) has to relearn your driving habits, etc every time you reconnect which in turn will give you poor performance/mpg/etc for a bit.

Simplified guide for tracking down parasitic drain.

Anyway, with a new battery you may find your issue resolved.

nbking wrote:
My vehicle is a Roadtrek motor home not a trailer. The house battery is controlled by a shut off switch and that is not a problem.

The problem is the van starting battery. However, the same principle may apply and I will look for a battery shut off switch for the van battery.

Thanks.

Two things you can do:
a) install a knif e switch that easily disconnect battery cable from battery so no drain
b) I keep a small solar panel plugged into my 12v accessory plug on the dash. It keep engine battery trickle charged and I have had no problems at all leaving my PW in the RV yard all winter although I do try to start and run the rv once a month in winter. Those small solar panels are cheap and work great.

AL

nbking wrote:
The priority start system is interesting. Never heard of it. Could you give me some information about it especially where we could get one and whether it is self install or dealer install. Thanks.

I either got mine on Amazon, or, on eBay and I got two, one for my Miata which has these lights with a switch easily turned on by random knee and one for my van which has the parasitic draining. HERE is link to amazon, I compared the priority to "battery protector" and I would pay the extra for the automatic reconnection vs opening the hood or trunk to push a button for the cheapest one. I did have mine installed by my garage. NOTE: these appear to be used? I also found them cheaper on eBay right now.

It is easy to add a battery cut off switch to the engine battery. Any auto supply store has them. It is just a switch put on the battery terminal that you then connect the wire back to. Get a good one. This will shut off your engine battery completely from the electrical system for the van. Just don't forget that it is there and off or you will be thinking that your battery is dead when the engine won't start. Of course, when you do this you lose any radio pre-sets, etc.. This will eliminate drain. Your engine battery should certainly last a month without driving but it is always a good idea to go out and start the engine once a week if the van is sitting. Let it idle for a few minutes or sit for awhile charging.