spark plug change 99 v10

you can get 3/8 drive foot lbs torque wrench that will go low enough.do not use antiseize as it will burn and make changing harder next time ,just lube threads

X2 on the inch pound torque wrench being what you need.
Mine is a 2000 GBM on a 1999 F53 chassis with V10.
I used 160 in/lbs.
Here was the write up I did: Dreaded F53 Plug Change

Here is something I learned 35 years ago working as a mechanic. I ALWAYS install spark plugs using a soft pliable length of hose that will fit over the tip of the spark plug firmly and is about 10" long. There use to be some green hose used on the smog systems 35 years ago that is perfect the job and still works today.

By using the hose, you can get into tight places and the flexibility of the hose allows for starting the spark plug at the correct angle. If it starts to cross thread, the hose will spin on the plug before any damage is done.

Hi,

A foot pound torque wrench seems like it will not dial down to the 10 foot pound range, but will work great if you needed to torqe a bolt to say 50 foot pounds or more. So use a foot pound torque wrench while tighten the lug nuts or other larger bolts, not the spark plugs.

For the spark plugs, get a inch pound torque wrench. And if you do foul up, you can buy a insert then install a larger diameter plug in that position. The fix is fairly easy.

Fred.

Get magnetic sparkplug socket attached to an 8-10" extension. They can be had at advance auto and such for $12. There is a universal between the socket and extension. Makes getting by the fuel rails easy. A real time saver in removing and replacing with not having to worry about dropping the plug of losing the socket down the hole.

JKaz

I have its little brother 5.4. I read all I could about it. Not that big of deal AFTER (that is) after you're done.

When I bought the plugs I also got a chuck of rubber hose that fits onto the top metal thing top of plug, at home I put a bolt through the rubber hose(making rubber stiff) so I could put plug back in nice and straight and turn by hand (not wrench) to make sure I wasn't cross threading. I read pluses and minus of anti-seize. Read some debate on both sides. Both convincing, came to conclusion that anti-seize would only assist in working plug looser and make it easier for them to blow plugs out. But that is me. You might not like that idea, do what you think is best. Also found (if wrench room is tight) that the rubber thing on the inside of the spark plug wrench didn't help. I used a magnate grip thing to lift plugs out of holes, worked fine for me. I also used a q-tip to put dielectric grease on inside of cop boot. Not a lot but inside well coated. Vaseline also worked for me on the little rubber donuts on fuel injector ports. I also wanted to know what the torque was as I removed plugs. Old style dial type torque wrenches allows you to see that, newer clickable ones don't.

After 9,000 miles since changing plugs (or 3 oil changes) I re-torqued just to make sure and all were fine.

There is a lot of info about them. But in your reading make sure your reading article with the model and plug and head you have. Read several articles that author was jumping up and down about something and didn't find out till end of article that he was working on different model. I think it is a good idea sticking with OEM Ford plugs. I have no idea why, but many people changing plugs or problems using non OEM plugs. I had to remove some wires and rubber tubes, I took pic's so to prevent any hassle when putting back together.
Some M/H's should only be towed from one end or other. Every time I turn a wrench on mine I back in so in case of big mess up and RV needs to be towed it is pointing the right way for tow truck, just in case. Hasn't happen yet, but just in case I'm ready, instead of damaging springs or suspension because of towing the wrong way. And watch those screws on cop's. One fell down in the valley and I couldn't fish it out. Had to make separate trip to junk yard or buy entire new cop.

After finishing pat yourself on back (twice)for saving about $400.00 at least in my case by doing it yourself.

You won't need it but I was going to do the "time-cert" thing if something went wrong.

Can't think of anything else....Good Luck..

Once you get the spark plugs out, examine them closely for any signs of aluminum that remains in the threads. If there is any, it means that part of the thread was removed with the plug and the hole should have a heli-coil installed before you install a new plug.

John Wayne wrote:
Plug Torque 160-168 in.lbs =13.3-14 ft.lbs I also put a little anti-sieze on mine.

X2 I have change twice so far this way.

Plug Torque 160-168 in.lbs =13.3-14 ft.lbs I also put a little anti-sieze on mine.

The only issue with your year V-10 is when installing them and tightening them. if you tighten them too much you run the risk of stripping the 3 threads that are in the cylinder head!

They are easy, just take your time!