Splicing air lines.

I don't think it is legal to splice an airline. Yes there are t's but the DOT can be nuts about some things.

Moisheh

Laws may of changed this day and age! I'm a retired trucker (retired 2010) when, I was driving it was against the law to splice air lines. And that was a Federal DOT law.

FIRE UP wrote:
Well Gang,
Yep, I have to agree with the "Push on" type. The Freightliner chassis under my coach is loaded with them. Now, I will admit that about 99.9% of them are at solenoids or mounted fittings of some sort but, non used for "Splicing". But, if I had to do what the OP had to do, I'd use the push on/in type all day long. In fact, I plan on adding a short line to the shrader valve on the bottom of my coach and run it to just inside a nearby compartment.

My coach looses about 10 lbs. of air a day, while parked in it's home, next to our home. Every once in a while, I have to crawl under it and feed it some air, to bring it back up to normal height. So, I'm planning on using those push-in/on types when I construct this little addition.
Scott

A better question is why do you lose 10 lbs of pressure a day? Mine rig often sits for 3 weeks at a time and I have no noticeable ride height change and very little (if any) pressure loss on the gauges. Rather than adding a fill connection, I would look for a leak with soapy water and fix that. Good luck.

Oh yea, I agree with the others that there is nothing wrong with a high quality push on connector.

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy

FIRE UP wrote:
Well Gang,
Yep, I have to agree with the "Push on" type. The Freightliner chassis under my coach is loaded with them. Now, I will admit that about 99.9% of them are at solenoids or mounted fittings of some sort but, non used for "Splicing". But, if I had to do what the OP had to do, I'd use the push on/in type all day long. In fact, I plan on adding a short line to the shrader valve on the bottom of my coach and run it to just inside a nearby compartment.

My coach looses about 10 lbs. of air a day, while parked in it's home, next to our home. Every once in a while, I have to crawl under it and feed it some air, to bring it back up to normal height. So, I'm planning on using those push-in/on types when I construct this little addition.
Scott

Why do you feel you have to add air? Just dump the air and leave it it will set on the stops till you start it and get ready for the road. Why do you crawl under to add air? there should be a air chuck in the front above the generator that the wrecker hooks into your airline to release the parking brake so it can be towed.
Bill

It has been a while since I worked on air lines (Air bags on a tow vehicle) but as I recall, they were push on.. I kind of wondered about that too.

Well Gang,
Yep, I have to agree with the "Push on" type. The Freightliner chassis under my coach is loaded with them. Now, I will admit that about 99.9% of them are at solenoids or mounted fittings of some sort but, non used for "Splicing". But, if I had to do what the OP had to do, I'd use the push on/in type all day long. In fact, I plan on adding a short line to the shrader valve on the bottom of my coach and run it to just inside a nearby compartment.

My coach looses about 10 lbs. of air a day, while parked in it's home, next to our home. Every once in a while, I have to crawl under it and feed it some air, to bring it back up to normal height. So, I'm planning on using those push-in/on types when I construct this little addition.
Scott

I have the push type on a lot of the air solenoids on my coach. None leak. Even my water line for the icemaker is a push on type. Like Scott says though, make sure they're not the cheap Chinese ones. If changing them to the screw on type for peace of mind is important to you, they're easy enough to change out and not really too expensive.....Dennis

No, those push connectors are the best as long as they are DOT certified - they are used by the factory. There are lots of cheapo versions of this splice though. I would talk to the person who spliced it or just replace them with the same part from a TOR truck supply house.
The key to making them work right is a very sharp, straight cut (fresh razor blade works good).

Run a new line. You have to have splices in some place but just another place for a possible leak. All splices are not created equal. I think it is a judgement call. There are some very good brass splices out there and again some very cheap one out there also. I keep several on hand in case I need one on a trip.