Suburban electric water heater not heating

YES this is a safety issue!!!!!


You state lower of two high temp so at least you understand that you have 2 different temps of t-stats


Left set of t-stats is for the electric heat element.......it is a 120V AC set with normal temp t-stat and a high temp t-stat.
Normal t-stat is what does ALL the heating control. OPENS when water temp reaches 130*F then when water temp drops below 115*F it CLOSES and allows heating to occur with electric element.

The High temp t-stat is there to shut down heating if normal t-stat FAILS. It is a 'safety' backup measure. It OPENS at 170*F and TRIPS so that no more heating can occur until owner intercedes.

BUY a new 120V AC t-stat set. $25


FYI the other set on right has nothing to do with electric heat function.
It is a 12V DC set for control of propane function. Same set up, same temp set points....Just 12V DC & for propane.


IF either of the High Temp t-stats should FAIL to OPEN (after normal has failed) then the only thing left is the T&P Relief Valve which OPENS (and BLOWS Steam/HOT-HOT water out side of Water Heater OPENS at 210*F/150 PSI

REPLACE THAT 120V AC Set and be safe...water heater although small is a BOILER capable of severe injuries and damage.


On Edit:
Eagles Pride RV is in Titusville
Order it via Internet
Replace it!

Use PROPANE until you replace the electric element set of t-stats

We are camping in Michigan at the moment.
I'm temporarily just running the electric heater long enough to get water hot while we are still connected to shore power. I'm saving my propane that way, and (hopefully) not letting things get too hot.
Then I shut the heater off and the hot water lasts quite a while.
The coach will be out of service all of September while it is being repainted. In the meantime, I'll order the replacement parts.
Thanks for the advice!
Bob

bmwbob wrote:
We are camping in Michigan at the moment.
I'm temporarily just running the electric heater long enough to get water hot while we are still connected to shore power. I'm saving my propane that way, and (hopefully) not letting things get too hot.
Then I shut the heater off and the hot water lasts quite a while.
The coach will be out of service all of September while it is being repainted. In the meantime, I'll order the replacement parts.
Thanks for the advice!
Bob

Check for a local RV Parts.......120V AC set of t-stats for Suburban WH is common item.

Remove cover, disconnect the 2 black wires, undo nut in center of bracket and remove BAD set . Install new set, tighten nut, install 2 black wires, put cover on....DONE and back to normal. SIMPLE

A Lot simpler than remembering to turn off.........forget an hopefully High Temp works. Then you have to go reset High Temp t-stat/reset On/Off Switch before can heat water again

OR forget High temp Fails and T&P BLOWS steam/scaling water on somebody that is by outside compartment.

Just saying.......so easy to fix!

I'll see if there is a Camping World or other RV parts place nearby Monday.
Bob

Amazon is where I bought my last set of limit switches, with Amazon Prime had them in a couple of days.

I just ordered the part on Amazon.
It will be here Tuesday.
The only additional complication I have is that the quick disconnect contact on the input side of the switch apparently was loose, and a high resistance connection.
So, it got hot and fried the miniature right angle female connector.
NO place I've been to has these connectors, so as a work around, I bought the standard 1/4" wide male and female self-insulating connectors and soldered a piece of #12 stranded wire to the male tab on the switch, and installed the 1/4" connectors on the wires.
If I can't find the 3/16" (approx.) wide connectors for 10-12 gauge wire, I'll have to solder to the new switch when it comes.
Hopefully the heat of doing that won't damage the new switch.
Bob

14 ga. wire is what is used to 120V AC t-stats

A flag wire disconnect 0.030 X 0.187" for terminal (Morris Products)(not easy to find),,,,,,,electronic/electrical NOT automotive


OK if you are good with soldering.

Soldering is no problem.
Before I retired, I used to go through High Reliabilty Soldering certification every other year at KSC.
Bob

if you forget
your going to get scalded by that 170* water
Not a good thing
one phone call or interruption is all it takes
then you hit the shower or do the dishes and get burned