tire pressure on motor home

I noticed Great Alaskan Holidays does that and followed suit on our first Class C. Wheels were a mess and we painted them all white. I liked the look but it was a pain everytime the lugs had to come off. On the current C, wheels don't look right to me without the simulators. But you're right, checking air was miserable. The Borg valves solved that.

I rented a C in Alaska a few years ago and noticed that they had removed the wheel covers. I got the idea that it would make checking tires easier and, guess what, it does. So I removed them and never put them back on. Checking pressure is simple with a truck style gauge. The white painted wheels look fine to me. Ease of service and safety are more important to me than a little chrome flash on the wheels.

With the proper pressure gauge (straight on end with no angle) you should be able to check the inner rear tires with no difficulty - after you remove the wheel cover. I took mine off a few years ago and left them off. The outer duals are tough if the valve stems aren't long enough to reach with the angled back end of a tire gauge. I use a small, inexpensive plastic extender on those two wheels. I have not had any trouble with them so far but I do carry spares and the means to pump my tires up to pressure. I understand extenders may fail causing serious loss of pressure. They tend to fail when checking the pressure, perhaps getting a bit of dirt in the seal, which isn't dangerous because you are stopped. A special tool to remove and install the extenders is probably a necessity. I use a 6 inch piece of plastic hose from the hardware store with a wood dowell handle.

dennyida wrote:
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Everything went very well except I still did not like the way it was handeling.
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Here is a link to a good article on front end caster and why more +caster is a good thing. In my personal experience I would say the most obvious symptom of not having enough +caster is "it seems like the steering box needs to be tightened". Just because your front end caster may be "within spec" it may not have enough +caster for highway driving. The specified range is gross (+1.5 TO +7.5), in my opinion the low end is meant for city delivery vans while the higher end is meant for our RVs on the highway. JMO

PS: Someone on this forum recommended this link previously, sorry I could not find the post/thread where you did so.

You'll want to get the solid metal stems from Tireman or Borg if you want to run TPMS, extensions won't handle the extra spinning mass attached. We have a TPMS set from TST truck, 4 flow through sensors for the back and 2 regular for the front. The flow through sensors allow air to be added to the tire without removing the sensor. They work well, and sensors normally transmit to the base unit every 5 minutes, so it will take up to 5 minutes to get a complete readout for all 6 tires. If there is a rapid pressure loss then the sensor will transmit immediately to allow the audible alarm feature of the base unit to trigger rapidly.

A sensor malfunction will cause a false trigger which will lead to you having to quickly pull over and verify it. So far we have not had any actual tire failures.

DW will check the base unit pressure and temperature periodically and so we get a good sense of how much the tires heat up and increase in pressure while driving in the summer and differences between inner and outer rear tires. The rear tires being at 80 psi usually run cooler than the fronts at 65 psi even though the rears have a heavier load. The rears will increase up to 92 psi hot and 102F. Fronts go up to 72 psi and 110F. The minimum settable temperature trigger on the base unit is 155F or so the tires must be relatively cool.

We only use the TPMS on long trips, for short trips I'll check the pressure with a tire gauge or the "thumb gauge" on the sidewall and monitor temperature with a infrared thermometer.

Get a set of six custom valves with air-through caps from Tire-Man and be done with tire checking and airing problems! I happen to have a different set from Borg but the price advantage we used to enjoy has mostly gone away, and the Tire-Man set is more comprehensive.
With those solid brass custom valves and air-through caps, I can check all six in just a couple minutes. But Wait! There's More! The valves are so well made that the tires just don't need air all that often. I haven't added air since New Year's Day.
I like the idea of TPMS, but I don't think they'll warn you in the last less-than-a-minute that it takes for a major tire injury to turn into a blowout. If I were to do TPMS I'd want it checking my TOAD as well, a Ten-Tire setup.
You've got a new coach. Make your tire valve setup right now, you'll be thankful for years.
EDIT: On a trip, so you're loaded up as for travel, visit a truck stop and weigh the rig. Four corners if you can, but at least Front Axle and Rear Axle. Then look up a Load/Pressure Chart and set both fronts and all four rears according to the chart. If the sides aren't equal, set them for the higher load. That "sidewall 80 PSI" is for max load, and your front axle's max load translates to only 65PSI.