Tow capacity

While I somewhat agree with the above post, it is not legal in NB to tow 3000+ without brakes. In fact his example requires brakes on both axles.

The OP is correct that he will have at least 7500 lbs behind him and yes I would do it BUT only with a Allison 3000 tranny and not before improving the hitch and putting a air operated braking system on the F150. I would also keep the MH weights down.

Interesting that the OP will not tell which different "bus" he's looking at that has the same HP as what he already has. Doubt we will hear back from him. I've learned to not waist my time on new members with just one post... He had two.

This forum makes the mentality that you need 500HP to have 5000lb toad behind.
I remember that not farther than 20 years ago - lot of 80,000 lb semi-truck setups have been powered by 318 HP. They did crawl on long grades, but still made it to destination.
Than common picture in Europe is 3000 lb car towing 4000 lb travel trailer.
Why in US 20-30,000 lb motorhome should not pull 5000 lb toad?
Sure cheap hitch will need replacement or reinforcement and toad brakes will add safety, but I have seen it in Nebraska that 5000 lb pickup tow 7000lb equipment trailers with no brakes.
Not legal in California, but legal in flat states.

I tow a 24' and a 28' featherlite enclosed trailer (not both at the same time) behind my 39' Winnebago DP all over the country.

I have the 330HP Cat motor - it's a little bigger than the ISB but smaller than all the other Cummins engines and I have NO issues with power.

The thing to look at is what transmission you have. The Allison 3000 is the big one and the lighter DP's has the Allison 2100 or 2500 which is where you will have a 5000lb tow limit.

Also have your hitch checked - as mine was rated for 10,000 lbs, but the tongue weight rating was only 500lbs. I got a new super heavy duty hitch built and I usually run a 9800lb trailer with about 1500lbs of tongue weight.

I use both an AirSafe air bag hitch and also weight distribution bars which makes a WORLD of difference in the tow quality. People think that the air suspension will compensate, which it does, but the ride quality is night and day with the weight distribution hitch.

The AirSafe hitch along with the weight distro bars makes it feel like I'm not even towing a trailer.

If you are flat towing - be sure to get a braking system for your TOAD!

rk911 wrote:
the amount of weight you can safely tow will be the lesser of the following:

- the gross combination weight rating of the MH minus the actual weight of the MH as it is loaded and configured fir travel

- the weight rating of your hitch

- the weight rating of your tow bar

...and:

- the coach's tow rating.

- the chassis's tow rating, some are different from above.

hipower wrote:
It seems that the OP is talking about two different units in his question. He is seeking info on an upgrade to a DP vs his currnet HR unit.

In my experience with the prospective upgrade to a 325 hp DP unit the drivetrain of engine, trans and rearend are more than capable of towing of a F-150 truck and HD cycle in the bed. The limiting factor is the hitch.

After inspecting the rear frame and hitch If I was satisfied that the frame was adequate I would upgrade the hitch to a 10k rated one and add supplemental braking to the truck and go about my business.

I can't say that I have personally worried about this point and have towed my 2009 Silverado for over 30k miles quite successfully behind my 2003 Newmar Dutch Star. I do inspect the hitch and its attachment points including fasteners at least annually and have seen no signs of any looming problems. Towing a trailer places a significant tongue load on a hitch where towing a four down toad is completely opposite, with its loads being fore and aft with minimal vertical stresses.

Yessir, that's the way I see it.
I towed a Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Unlimited, with custom bumpers, winch, and 30 gallon fuel tank with a Class C. I had the 3500 lb. rated hitch reinforced by a highly qualified welder, and had no problems.
I towed a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 quad cab short box 4X4 with a Class A with 5000 lb. rated hitch, no problems.
No, I have no idea what the Jeep or the truck actually weighed.
Yes, I towed both vehicles in the mountains, over the Continental Divide, several times.
I am giving serious consideration to upgrading the hitch on the coach and towing the truck in my sig.

OP, why don't you let us know what the bus is that you are looking at. It would help us help you. The ISB 5.9 you have now is rated 325 HP so are you really talking about what you already have? I would be concerned about the hydraulic disk brakes on your rig.

It seems that the OP is talking about two different units in his question. He is seeking info on an upgrade to a DP vs his currnet HR unit.

In my experience with the prospective upgrade to a 325 hp DP unit the drivetrain of engine, trans and rearend are more than capable of towing of a F-150 truck and HD cycle in the bed. The limiting factor is the hitch.

After inspecting the rear frame and hitch If I was satisfied that the frame was adequate I would upgrade the hitch to a 10k rated one and add supplemental braking to the truck and go about my business.

I can't say that I have personally worried about this point and have towed my 2009 Silverado for over 30k miles quite successfully behind my 2003 Newmar Dutch Star. I do inspect the hitch and its attachment points including fasteners at least annually and have seen no signs of any looming problems. Towing a trailer places a significant tongue load on a hitch where towing a four down toad is completely opposite, with its loads being fore and aft with minimal vertical stresses.

Jimmydi wrote:
Regarding my tow capacity, it has been suggested that I can modify the hitch either by Camping World or buy a U-Haul dealer.
This particular coach is a diesel pusher. What are you thoughts on the modification of the hitch.

The hitch won't be the problem, overhauling the transmission will. You'll probably eat torque convertors lock up clutch material, first and second gear clutch packs and generally overheating the transmission pulling that much weight. As the clutches wear out due to excessive slipping they will flood the transmission with friction material also.

Jimmydi wrote:
Regarding my tow capacity, it has been suggested that I can modify the hitch either by Camping World or buy a U-Haul dealer.
This particular coach is a diesel pusher. What are you thoughts on the modification of the hitch.

I would not do it. MAYBE if you were talking less than 500 pounds over. Have you worked the other numbers yet? If you increase the amount of weight you are towing will there even be enough cargo carrying capacity left for the rest of the stuff you want to carry in the coach. You still have to be able to stop it with the existing braking system. Which transmission do you have?

By the way, do you own it or are you looking at it? If you own it, have you had it four cornered weighed to see what your numbers are now?

Regarding my tow capacity, it has been suggested that I can modify the hitch either by Camping World or buy a U-Haul dealer.
This particular coach is a diesel pusher. What are you thoughts on the modification of the hitch.