AikenRacer wrote:
I used to tow a 2500 diesel with the golf cart in the bed with no problems. I no longer have that. Now I have a 1500 Silverado 4x4. The truck squats about 1.5" which I am a little concerned about. The rear wheels of the golf cart rest half way on the tailgate. Also a little concern. Cant load the golf cart backwards due to the rear seat and tailboard. I think my tow hook ups will work fine. Also wondering if there is a way to wire up the turn signals with the factory turn signals on the truck as opposed to running a separate wire and putting separate bulbs in the rear lights like I did with my old truck. If anyone is towing a 2016 Silverado 1500, please pm me. Thanks!
Any comments welcomed except to get rid of the new truck and get something else. Thanks again.
AikenRacer
Well, we're pretty close to operating a package that's very similar to what you're inquiring about. Our coach, an '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the C-7 330HP CAT, is hauling an '11 GMC Sierra 1500 Extended Cab 4x4. In the bed of that truck is what's called a Rampage motorcycle hauler/lift. On that lift/carrier is a 2008 Honda GL 1800 Goldwing motorcycle.
That truck, weighs exactly 5300 lbs. at a certified scale. I weighed it with a full tank of fuel, WITHOUT THE BIKE AND CARRIER. That Rampage hovers really close to about 275 lbs. The bike is listed at 900 lbs. So, the truck is hauling right close to 1300 lbs. The pay load for THAT truck is 1500 lbs.
I'd bet dollars to donuts that your payload on your truck is either exactly the same as ours or, maybe even slightly higher. I have no idea what your G/C weighs but, you should get it weighed and not guess at it. As for just how much your truck slumps with the weight of the G/C in it, well, ours drops about 2.5" with the bike and lift. I'm not worried about it at all. The truck handles that weight without issues.
We've driven around towns with the bike in the back for various reasons (we didn't unload it because of the short term stay at various campgrounds) and that truck has always done flawless. Sure, I'm not going to go road race with it back there so, the handling is a tad bit sloppy but, not anywhere near "unsafe".
Now, second, I too would be a bit leery of keeping that tail gate on there. We don't have it on the truck at all when we're hauling the bike but, that's because the Rampage is dong all the work and, the tail gate is useless anyways. So, why carry it?
As for your situation, if you need the "platform" to carry the wheels /tires on your truck, I'd maybe look into something that's less costly. But, one thing to consider, your tail gate IS only carrying 1/2 the total weight so, I'm not sure what tail gates are rated at these days. But, the total weight is still applied when loading and off loading, correct?
As for your tail lights. Well, I've been doing just what you're asking about for decades. I've tied into the factory wiring on almost 12 toads. And that means the present truck too. It's about as easy as it gets to do it. Yes, a couple of Radio Shack diodes are needed for down stream protection of the trucks wiring and assosiatated systems.
Now, I will say that, on our other present toad, a '15 Jeep JKUR, (That's Jeep JK, Unlimited Rubicon for those that are unaware) I recently purchased a factory made Hopkins harness for setting that one up. It's a genuine plug and play deal. It plugs right into the factory wiring in behind the left tail light of the Jeep. You then run the four wires up to the front and setup the pig tail connection, just like you would on any toad.
Now, those Jeep tail lights act the EXACT SAME WAY WHEN TOWING IT, as they do when it's being driven. They're bright and positive, unlike those with additional bulbs and sockets. Your choice on that one. Good luck.
Scott