Transmissioncontrols not working

As you can tell, my memory is shot!!! The TCU/TCM commonly referred to as the VIM(Vehicle Interface Module).....sorry. My initials were all off. And of course not to be confused with the ECU/ECM!!! Isn't working on a RV Fun??? !!!!

Update - I found the fuses in the vehicle interface module and they are fine. This unit was in the fuse bay in a separate unit with 6 relays and the two fuses. I found these through a conversation with John, the contact given to me through “Acampingwewillgo” on this site. John al-Sharif gave me instructions on how to check if ECU requires changing. I will also look at Wires as suggested by “Oldave”. Thank you to all. The group here are totally amazing.

You should have a wire from the positive post of the chassis ( start )
battery that goes to the trans ecm .
This wire is for the memory and will have an in line fuse .
Some people have found this fuse up the wire a distance perhaps hidden
from view .
Often times this wire is broken or left off when working on the batteries .
Some have found the wire was repaired with a butt connector and had
come loose .
Look closely in the battery area to see if you can locate the wire , then
start following and testing along the way for 12 volts .
The butt connector if present could be wrapped in tape with other wires .

What's important to note, the 5 amp fuses within the TCU, part of the relay package is NOT part of the ignition. When you turn your ignition on, that wakes up the transmission so if your not getting power to the ignition(I think you said you were getting power)than that would be a separate ignition fuse. As I previously stated, I thought the ignition may have been my issue and I replaced it but it wasn't. You should be able to hear the relays click in the TCU when the ignition comes on. As I mentioned in my private message, my TCU was located with my ECU but others can be located on the transmission itself(the housing).

What is battery voltage on the dash gauge (chassis battery) when you turn the ignition to ON (not start)? Low voltage will cause all kinds of symptoms like this.

I cannot get diagnostics from the shift pad as nothing lights up. Prior to parking the RV last time used, I felt like I was losing throttle power. When I got to my driveway at 1:00 am after driving for 11 hours and before I turned off the ignition key, the shift pad was reading N N not N1. Where would I find the ignition controlled panel please?

If your 96 is anything like mine, you should see another "Black" box that has about 10 screws holding it together...that would be your Transmission Control Unit containing the relays and the two 5 amp fuses(this box is separate from your ECU/ECM, that's the silver box that has the large wire loom/plugs going into it. Ad stated, you can spray contact cleaned on those loom contacts but let it dry before reconnecting and verifying the seating of those connections.

Like I said, I had everything taken apart, I tried feeding direct battery power to my ECU/ECM, cables running everywhere, I replaced relays, replaced fuses and even replaced the TCU(from a junk yard)….nothing worked....Of course it didn't, it needed to be rebuilt!!!

Don't lose faith though, maybe it is something simple, like a fuse, I just wacked my head several times for nothing thinking it was something simple. Oh yea, I replaced my ignition switch too.

Oh heck.....his name is John at Transmission Instruments of Texas at (866)439-9779. very helpful on the phone and will talk to you about things to try. The price I quoted above included having my Keypad/display rebuilt also. A WTEC2 is 495.00 rebuilt.

I had it sent and back in about 1 week!

Having spent a good part of about 4 months trouble shooting my Allison HD 4060 Trans and ECM, there is plenty of info on the internet of different solutions to try. I exhausted many in my quest to fix it myself. By the way, mine is a 1996 too. On my display I was getting what they call "Cat Eyes"....after a long search, I finally found someone who had the proper testing equipment to test the ECM outside of the RV. The ECM comes out fairly easily. The guy I took it to was an authorized Allison station. Long story short, he tested for Nothing/nada, told me it was bad, and said if I could get it rebuilt for the price I had been quoted, I should sent it to them. (His rebuilding was in the 2000-2500.00 range, I had it done for 700.00). Works perfectly now and I wish I had not wasted my time and effort and just had it tested first.

If interested, I can give you his name and number, he's very helpful also.

No, most likely the fuse will be in the coach "ignition controlled" fuse panel.

Have you checked diagnostic codse from the shift pad-- good place to start.