Turbo leak

mike brez wrote:

SidecarFlip wrote:
Best penetrating oil I've ever found (and cheapest too) is a mixture of acetone and Dexron / Mercon ATF. Mix 1/3 ATF with 2/3 rds Acetone and put in a sprttzer bottle. Eats rust and loosens stuck bolts. I keep a spritz bottle handy all the time.

Unless yo are crack home wrench, I'd take it to a shop to have it done. The turbo / manifold assembly has to come off, new gasket put on and everything buttoned up again, not for the home shop really unless you have the tools and a means to remove the parts safely.

You ca run it that way, no issue but like was stated above, soak the studs and nuts down (all of them, nit just that one more tan once before you get home. That will allow the removal without snapping a stud off which is a royal PITA and time consuming to extract. Most times they break off flush and have to be drilled out with a die reclaim bit... (solid tungsten carbide). Don't think you have one of those. Soaking them with penetrating oil will facilitate removal and save you a bundle in the end.

I will be fixing it myself. I have a decent assortment of tools but you are correct I don't have a die reclaim bit...(solid tungsten carbide)

Even with lots of penetrating oil and time to soak in, chances are you will break a stud or two and like I said, they tend to break off flush so the only avenue is drill it out but normal HSS drills won't do the job because the studs are heat treated many times over so you'll need to get a die reclaim (solid tungsten carbide drill) and drill and then pick out the remainder of the stud with a carbide pick. You can buy single reclaim drills in the diameter you require from MNSC online. They aren't cheap, around 30 bucks for a single drill but they will drill anything including glass if you want to. I have a set of them and use them once in a while to drill out broken taps in work I don't want to scrap.

Don't use any oil when drilling, just water as a lubricant and use it to flush away the drillings. Take your time and keep the drill straight. Hurrying up will break the bit.

Hopefully you don't snap any studs but usually they do snap on an engine that has went through many heat and cool cycles.

I know CAT (if you have a CAT engine, makes a drill jig to align the drill with the stud and if it is a CAT you should be able to borrow the jig from any engine shop that does CAT work. If it's some other make, I'm not sure about the jig, Only familiar with the CAT one.

Hope that helps.

Not a "must do", but just a suggestion. At the age of your engine, IME, it would be a good idea to replace the exhaust manifold/turbo studs, nuts, and gasket with factory OEM replacements, if possible/available. It looks from your photo that you have good access to the turbo.

Having a turbo exhaust leak puts additional stress on the remaining studs, as well as additional heat to the stud with the missing nut. You should be up and running in no time.

Chum lee

SidecarFlip wrote:
Best penetrating oil I've ever found (and cheapest too) is a mixture of acetone and Dexron / Mercon ATF. Mix 1/3 ATF with 2/3 rds Acetone and put in a sprttzer bottle. Eats rust and loosens stuck bolts. I keep a spritz bottle handy all the time.

Unless yo are crack home wrench, I'd take it to a shop to have it done. The turbo / manifold assembly has to come off, new gasket put on and everything buttoned up again, not for the home shop really unless you have the tools and a means to remove the parts safely.

You ca run it that way, no issue but like was stated above, soak the studs and nuts down (all of them, nit just that one more tan once before you get home. That will allow the removal without snapping a stud off which is a royal PITA and time consuming to extract. Most times they break off flush and have to be drilled out with a die reclaim bit... (solid tungsten carbide). Don't think you have one of those. Soaking them with penetrating oil will facilitate removal and save you a bundle in the end.

I will be fixing it myself. I have a decent assortment of tools but you are correct I don't have a die reclaim bit...(solid tungsten carbide)

Thanks to everyone who posted. Made it home without a issue. Climbed a couple of hills in PA. a little slow but no problem. Now to work on repairing. Let the soaking begin.

I would run it, soak it, even heat the nuts when you get home. I would run a file over both surfaces and if the studs come out instead of the nuts, replace with SS all thread.l and SS nuts.

Best penetrating oil I've ever found (and cheapest too) is a mixture of acetone and Dexron / Mercon ATF. Mix 1/3 ATF with 2/3 rds Acetone and put in a sprttzer bottle. Eats rust and loosens stuck bolts. I keep a spritz bottle handy all the time.

Unless yo are crack home wrench, I'd take it to a shop to have it done. The turbo / manifold assembly has to come off, new gasket put on and everything buttoned up again, not for the home shop really unless you have the tools and a means to remove the parts safely.

You ca run it that way, no issue but like was stated above, soak the studs and nuts down (all of them, nit just that one more tan once before you get home. That will allow the removal without snapping a stud off which is a royal PITA and time consuming to extract. Most times they break off flush and have to be drilled out with a die reclaim bit... (solid tungsten carbide). Don't think you have one of those. Soaking them with penetrating oil will facilitate removal and save you a bundle in the end.

sailor_lou wrote:
As the other have noted, this is not a job for WD40. Use a true penetrating oil like Kroil (the best IMO) or PB Blaster. Good luck and safe travels.

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy

AGREED!

As the others have noted, this is not a job for WD40. Use a true penetrating oil like Kroil (the best IMO) or PB Blaster. Good luck and safe travels.

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy

Isn't enough WD-40 for that. Get the torch out.

Yup, run it home-- probably avoid full throttle as much as you can.

Then, soak, soak, soak before even trying to break those nuts loose. Soak the top of the studs as well, you do not care whether the nut or stud come loose-- either works!

And, if they don't come loose, consider a torch and/or sharp raps to break them loose rather than breaking them off.