Using hydraulic bottle jacks for leveling

Yup. but they are working without buckling on my 26,000 pound (13 ton) motor home so I'm not worried.. The wheels are all still on the ground.

wa8yxm wrote:
Since my RV's hydraulics do not work properly, in fact one jack is missing entierly, That is how I level.. HOWEVER.. A suggestion.

I have found the bottle jacks tend to "Leak" a bit (internally, not externally) so they do not hold well, Oh for short periods (Like changing a tire) they are OK, but for long periods (Days of camping) they will not hold.

So, I pump 'em up past level, then lower 'em down onto a set of nice jack stands.. My stands are six ton (rear) and 2 ton (Front) which is overkill (though I( need the SIZE of the six ton jobs on the rear) all sitting on lumber to give 'em a better (bigger)"Footprint" but they do not "leak" being as there is nothign to leak.. Nice Soild Mechnical latch

Also the stands cost less than 4 Jacks would

See precautions above regarding making sure you jack on the frame. Stand under it too (jack stand that is)

Do bear in mind that most jack stands (and, for that matter, most ramps for oil changes) are rated per pair. Each jack stand in a "6 ton" jack stand set is rated to support 3 tons on its own.

Since my RV's hydraulics do not work properly, in fact one jack is missing entierly, That is how I level.. HOWEVER.. A suggestion.

I have found the bottle jacks tend to "Leak" a bit (internally, not externally) so they do not hold well, Oh for short periods (Like changing a tire) they are OK, but for long periods (Days of camping) they will not hold.

So, I pump 'em up past level, then lower 'em down onto a set of nice jack stands.. My stands are six ton (rear) and 2 ton (Front) which is overkill (though I( need the SIZE of the six ton jobs on the rear) all sitting on lumber to give 'em a better (bigger)"Footprint" but they do not "leak" being as there is nothign to leak.. Nice Soild Mechnical latch

Also the stands cost less than 4 Jacks would

See precautions above regarding making sure you jack on the frame. Stand under it too (jack stand that is)

If you have a good eye for level, stack wood under your current jacks and then drop the air on the coach.

Ed C wrote:
I would put them right under the built-in jacks.

NO!
The pads for the leveling jacks are normally a swiveling plate to compensate for unlevel surfaces. Placing a jack at this point will not be a secure or stable point. Better to find a location on the frame or under axles. JMHO.

rgatijnet1 wrote:
Harbor Freight will probably have the least expensive bottle jacks.

There's a reason for that. I'd get mine from NAPA

The non-functioning jacks would make a good lift point but a 40' coach is going to be difficult considering the potential weight in the neighborhood of 30k lbs. if not more. My gas coach tops out at 18K lbs. which is a bit easier to work with. Wheel leveling might be a better option.

Before I install a hydraulic system I leveled with two jack stands and a bottle jack all 12 ton. Only needed three (stands and jack) since you want to keep at least one rear firmly planted for the brakes. No bleed down from the jack. Found them at Northern Tool for under $100.

Only in Canada.

I have Harbor Freight chinese jacks and they all leak down about an inch per hour. Much easier to simply pull up on boards like the old days.

Yes , you can use hydraulic bottle jacks for leveling.. Just make sure your ON THE FRAME... like stated above , place them under the existing jack feet that do not work . . .

I used 4 of them on my TT for years with good results