I have an atwood g6a-8e water heater and have run into an issue -- it wont stay lit more than a few seconds. Back story: The pressure relief valve was weeping so i replaced that and while i was at it replaced the anode drain plug. When I put it all back together i made sure the tank was fully pressurized and the relief valve worked and in the process splashed some water on the front. Went to turn it on and it ignites, but then goes out very quickly. So i started to fiddle with it -- cleaned contacts and scrubbed the ignitor mainly. NADA. Before this it worked fine besides leaking water which was channeled from the front away using foil.I checked the distance between the ignitor and the ground rod. I also used a heavy torch to "side burn" if you will to try to get the ignitor to go out and signal it was functioning. The few seconds it runs the flame looks decent like it always has. I ran the stove a few minutes to make sure no air in the lines. And made sure the components on it were mostly dry. While messing the probe half the ceramic case broke off so i figure i should start there, but isnt that mostly to prevent stray sparks and wont impact its ability to "sense" flame. One of the thermostats looks a little rusted so maybe thats causing an issue? I know parts will need to be replaced -- but which and in what order?

Here's the Service Manual for it courtesy of Chris Bryant. I believe that in a way above my paygrade, the Ignitor serves as a Flame Prover. Not the old Thermocouple way, some kind of ionization test. So I'd guess that if you broke it you need a new one. Did you get the Control Board wet? I do know that Atwood water heaters are bad about poor contact at the edge connector to the control board. Unplug, clean the board edge contacts with a pencil eraser, re-tension the spring contacts in the connector with a dental pick.

Went through the same thing. New ignitor, cleaned everything, bypassed safeties. Card was bad all of a sudden. It was 14 years old so either buy $100 card or new wh for $350. Because of the age I went with a new wh.

Thanks. Ive already torn the manual up and down to see what to do. BTW, its also available here. I looked at it before I posted. From what ive read on many other forums the ignitor acts as a signal to tell the control board to stop igniting -- I could be wrong. I'll service the connector in the morning, sounds very similar to what I had to do to my nintendo a few months back. I still have the contact cleaner, brasso, and electronic rubbing alcohol.I checked the contact from the brown wire to green (as service manual instructs) and I get 14.2, the exact voltage of my batteries so the circuit board is powered. I dont believe the connector would be the source but Ill check anyways.As it is now Im going to replace some of the more worn and weathered parts (and parts i broke during this) -- thermostat and ignitor. While Im replacing the thermostats Ill get a new thermal cut off too as this one is a bit corroded.

This was installed in 99 so Im sure im due for a new one at some point. But no leaks so Im going to hang onto it for a bit. I see the cards are 100$ on amazon so may be the route i take. 100$ is far more palatable than the 700$ for a new one.

Major side note, I too am a good sam member how do you add that to your profile?

Water Heater Wont Stay Lit | Good Sam Community

j-d
Explorer II
Aug 17, 2016
Here's the Service Manual for it courtesy of Chris Bryant. I believe that in a way above my paygrade, the Ignitor serves as a Flame Prover. Not the old Thermocouple way, some kind of ionization test. So I'd guess that if you broke it you need a new one.
Did you get the Control Board wet?
I do know that Atwood water heaters are bad about poor contact at the edge connector to the control board. Unplug, clean the board edge contacts with a pencil eraser, re-tension the spring contacts in the connector with a dental pick.
azrving
Explorer
Aug 17, 2016
Went through the same thing. New ignitor, cleaned everything, bypassed safeties. Card was bad all of a sudden. It was 14 years old so either buy $100 card or new wh for $350. Because of the age I went with a new wh.
WanderingBrady
Explorer
Aug 17, 2016
Thanks. Ive already torn the manual up and down to see what to do. BTW, its also available here. I looked at it before I posted.

From what ive read on many other forums the ignitor acts as a signal to tell the control board to stop igniting -- I could be wrong. I'll service the connector in the morning, sounds very similar to what I had to do to my nintendo a few months back. I still have the contact cleaner, brasso, and electronic rubbing alcohol.

I checked the contact from the brown wire to green (as service manual instructs) and I get 14.2, the exact voltage of my batteries so the circuit board is powered. I dont believe the connector would be the source but Ill check anyways.

As it is now Im going to replace some of the more worn and weathered parts (and parts i broke during this) -- thermostat and ignitor. While Im replacing the thermostats Ill get a new thermal cut off too as this one is a bit corroded.
WanderingBrady
Explorer
Aug 17, 2016
This was installed in 99 so Im sure im due for a new one at some point. But no leaks so Im going to hang onto it for a bit. I see the cards are 100$ on amazon so may be the route i take. 100$ is far more palatable than the 700$ for a new one.
WanderingBrady
Explorer
Aug 17, 2016
Major side note, I too am a good sam member how do you add that to your profile?
IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Aug 17, 2016
WanderingBrady wrote:
Major side note, I too am a good sam member how do you add that to your profile?

Give this a try CLICK HERE
azrving
Explorer
Aug 17, 2016
Mine is a 2000. Yes the flame on the probe= milivolt signal to card. Old style had an expansion thermocouple tube type.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Aug 17, 2016
OK lets clear up a few things........

Atwood doesn't use an anode rod.
If it has one it is an aftermarket 'take your money' gimmick
Pick up a new Atwood Nylon drain plug.....nylon because tank has aluminum threads

Ceramic insulator is an isolator so 'flame proving' signal doesn't short to ground.

Replace the spark electrode assembly (make sure high tension wire makes tight/clean connection on new electrode AND at transformer on circuit board)
Set spark gap at 1/8" and make sure rod is positioned so flame engulfs it when it lights off
Spark electrode assembly mounting screw provides ground contact so make sure it is tight/clean

Replace t-stat/ECO and thermal fuse.......dripping T&P has corroded those contacts/connections

Make sure burner tube is aligned so gas flow is down center of tube and flame spreader on end of tube is square/parallel to end of tube
(if tube is crooked gas will bounce down tube and not properly mix with the air)
WanderingBrady
Explorer
Aug 17, 2016
Perfect, I'll look into those. Makes sense the drip down messed up the contacts.

You can call it a gimmick,but the one I replaced was heavily corroded with less than 25% left and there aren't any leaks in my tank. I'll keep it. Magnesium decays at a higher rate than aluminum so chemically speaking it makes sense. Rather sacrifice the rod than my tank walls. I'll swap those and report back.
Old-Biscuit
Explorer III
Aug 17, 2016
WanderingBrady wrote:
Perfect, I'll look into those. Makes sense the drip down messed up the contacts.

You can call it a gimmick,but the one I replaced was heavily corroded with less than 25% left and there aren't any leaks in my tank. I'll keep it. Magnesium decays at a higher rate than aluminum so chemically speaking it makes sense. Rather sacrifice the rod than my tank walls. I'll swap those and report back.

Atwood does NOT recommend use of anode rod.
Atwood doesn't even have a part number for an anode rod...wonder why?
That is because the tank is an aluminum clad alloy tank

But if it makes you feel better....go ahead.

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