Water heater

Thank you everyone for the superb information. I will dig into it today.
Tom

Just be very careful when changing them. The wires are routed behind the sheet metal face and the edges are very sharp. Cutting the wires is easy to do.

Thank you for the quick reply. I was hoping that there were two thermostats.

The thermostat for the electric side can be out of spec and opening too soon. They're cheap, I'd replace it as a first step.

Suburban water heater uses 2 separate sets of t-stats....(under rubber cover 'Push to Reset')
One 120V AC set for electric' (left side---black wiring)
One 12V DC set for propane (right side----red wiring)

OEM both sets are the same temp setting
130*F for normal temp t-stat
180*F for hi temp t-stat

140*F/180*F Optional set available for either electric and propane

120*F/180*F Optional electric only available


If t-stats are OEM (have NOT been replaced) then they are same temp

Electric heating takes LONGER to heat/recover-----1440W element with a 6.2 gal/hr recovery rate

Propane is a 12,000 btu/hr burner with a 10.2 gal/hr recovery rate


Run electric and propane at same time......16.2 gal/hr recovery rate




NOTE:
If t-stat was NOT controlling the heating cycle then temp would go HIGH
If t-stat was faulty then NO heating would occur

IF element is scaled up due to HARD water source then heat transfer could be restricted....but that would just take longer then normal to reach t-stat set point.

So either you are expecting faster recovery with electric, not waiting until full heat cycle has finished or Electric t-stats have been changed out to lower temp set

If the element is heating the water, it's working. It's more likely the thermostat is faulty. If it was a residential unit I would say it just needs an adjustment but I don't *think* RV WH's have them.

it sounds like you need a new heating elament.But the gas side on a norm is aet higher on the therm.

it sounds like you need a new heating elament.But the gas side on a norm is aet higher on the therm.