waxing Motorhome

rgatijnet1 wrote:

Rodz wrote:


Not even close. In the early 80's we went to a basecoat clearcoat system. The formulation for urethane clear coat is completely different from base coat. That Eastwood link isn't real world paint. In the lacquer days you could paint and clear coat was optional. Today's base coat has to be top coated. Look up the formulation for basecoat and urethane top coat.

Obviously you think you are right. I was only speaking from my own extensive experience. I don't need to spend any more time looking up what I already know.

I give up. Have a nice day.:R

Rodz wrote:


Not even close. In the early 80's we went to a basecoat clearcoat system. The formulation for urethane clear coat is completely different from base coat. That Eastwood link isn't real world paint. In the lacquer days you could paint and clear coat was optional. Today's base coat has to be top coated. Look up the formulation for basecoat and urethane top coat.

Obviously you think you are right. I was only speaking from my own extensive experience. I don't need to spend any more time looking up what I already know.

rgatijnet1 wrote:

Rodz wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:

Rodz wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:
The Clear coat is actually the same paint as used for the base color coat. The only difference is that it does not contain any pigments, thus it is clear.
That said, the clear coat is just a susceptible to damage from the environment as any pint and should protected with a wax designed for "clear coat" finishes.
The clear coat itself, with it's lack of pigments is actually a little softer and will scratch easily so use only clear coat safe products with no abrasives, including any rags or towels with synthetic fibers that can scratch the finish.
100% cotton works the best IF you pull out any threads around the edge that may be synthetic.

Absolutely false.

What's false? I'm sure that I have painted more vehicles, airplanes, and RV's than you but let's hear some details. I'm always willing to learn.

I've been restoring and building high end street rods and classic cars for over 45 yrs. Too many awards to count so I doubt that you have done more painting than me but that's not the point. Anyone that thinks base coat and clear coat is the same thing needs an education.

To use your words, Absolutely false
Two part resin with pigment added=basecoat.
Two part resin without pigments added=clear coat.
I guess you have never tinted clear coat to increase the depth of color. The more pigment added the more opaque the coating becomes.
Here is one link:Clear coat questions

Not even close. In the early 80's we went to a basecoat clearcoat system. The formulation for urethane clear coat is completely different from base coat. That Eastwood link isn't real world paint. In the lacquer days you could paint and clear coat was optional. Today's base coat has to be top coated. Look up the formulation for basecoat and urethane top coat.

sfo1969 wrote:
How often do you wax your motorhome and what product do you use?

Just in case -- not a question of right or wrong -- but what do you do.

When I leave my Coach with out something on it it looks like POOP so I use a lot of Stuff. Not trying to ...............

Let's keep to the Question at Hand.

Just Saying,

:S:?

Rodz wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:

Rodz wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:
The Clear coat is actually the same paint as used for the base color coat. The only difference is that it does not contain any pigments, thus it is clear.
That said, the clear coat is just a susceptible to damage from the environment as any pint and should protected with a wax designed for "clear coat" finishes.
The clear coat itself, with it's lack of pigments is actually a little softer and will scratch easily so use only clear coat safe products with no abrasives, including any rags or towels with synthetic fibers that can scratch the finish.
100% cotton works the best IF you pull out any threads around the edge that may be synthetic.

Absolutely false.

What's false? I'm sure that I have painted more vehicles, airplanes, and RV's than you but let's hear some details. I'm always willing to learn.

I've been restoring and building high end street rods and classic cars for over 45 yrs. Too many awards to count so I doubt that you have done more painting than me but that's not the point. Anyone that thinks base coat and clear coat is the same thing needs an education.

To use your words, Absolutely false
Two part resin with pigment added=basecoat.
Two part resin without pigments added=clear coat.
I guess you have never tinted clear coat to increase the depth of color. The more pigment added the more opaque the coating becomes.
Here is one link:Clear coat questions

rgatijnet1 wrote:

Rodz wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:
The Clear coat is actually the same paint as used for the base color coat. The only difference is that it does not contain any pigments, thus it is clear.
That said, the clear coat is just a susceptible to damage from the environment as any pint and should protected with a wax designed for "clear coat" finishes.
The clear coat itself, with it's lack of pigments is actually a little softer and will scratch easily so use only clear coat safe products with no abrasives, including any rags or towels with synthetic fibers that can scratch the finish.
100% cotton works the best IF you pull out any threads around the edge that may be synthetic.

Absolutely false.

What's false? I'm sure that I have painted more vehicles, airplanes, and RV's than you but let's hear some details. I'm always willing to learn.

I've been restoring and building high end street rods and classic cars for over 45 yrs. Too many awards to count so I doubt that you have done more painting than me but that's not the point. Anyone that thinks base coat and clear coat is the same thing needs an education.

I use Wash Wax All. It cleans and puts a protective coating on the rig. It takes me about the same amount of time as washing with soap and water. I am constantly getting compliments on how shiny the rig is.

Rodz wrote:

rgatijnet1 wrote:
The Clear coat is actually the same paint as used for the base color coat. The only difference is that it does not contain any pigments, thus it is clear.
That said, the clear coat is just a susceptible to damage from the environment as any pint and should protected with a wax designed for "clear coat" finishes.
The clear coat itself, with it's lack of pigments is actually a little softer and will scratch easily so use only clear coat safe products with no abrasives, including any rags or towels with synthetic fibers that can scratch the finish.
100% cotton works the best IF you pull out any threads around the edge that may be synthetic.

Absolutely false.

What's false? I'm sure that I have painted more vehicles, airplanes, and RV's than you but let's hear some details. I'm always willing to learn.

Another NU Finish user and I usually do it once a year. However, I missed last year and haven't got around to it yet this year either.

Lou
05 Travel Supreme Envoy

At least twice a year. I wash it with AmourAll Extreme Shine and Wax it with Protect All. If I can't find Protect All, then I use Turtle Wax Ice spray on Wax. Both products are good for ALL surfaces unlike some which are bad for rubber, vinyl and glass.