Who takes a motorcycle with them

I carry a 250 cc scooter.

Tim,
Thanks for the nice comment. I really liked hauling the Goldwing on the back of the coach. We had no issues what so ever but, things changed and, we wanted a different toad, a truck, so, we moved on to the Rampage Lift and now put the bike in the back of our GMC Sierra.

Now, as for protecting your "vulnerable parts" on the bike. I've buffed and polished a few hundred miles of aluminum, stainless and more and, you say you're concerned about going to Florida from your residence? Now, unless you get the bike completely coated with salt, and the go by way of Russia, Novi Scotia, Japan, Austrailia, Cuba and into Florida that way, I'd just about bet that you'd have no tarnishment, corrosion etc. on any exposed aluminum in that short of a time.

It's definitely your machine and you certainly can protect it as you see but, you may be over thinking this. Just an opinion here.
Scott

Scott, thanks for the info. I think having the bike on the back of our Ford Ranger would expose it to quite a bit of wind, buffeting etc.
Truth be told, if lucky, we'd have dry sailing form Ct to Fl.and no protection needed. But......
Now, I'm thinking about another approach. No cover, but apply something like S100 corrosion protector on exposed parts that I'm concerned about,especially the rear aluminum rim.
BTW when I googled Ultraguard motorcycle covers "Ultragard" came up.
I think your cover was more than $49.95.:S
Maybe, someone has actually used the S100 corrosion protector and may have some feedback.
Thanks again for your reply. BTW your set up sure looked good.

FIRE UP wrote:
Tim fm ct,
Well Sir, this is a bit of a tough one. You see, in an enclosed trailer, it's not problem because, when you tie it down, the tie downs do not get in the way of a cover because there's no need for a cover INSIDE the trailer.

But, when you tie a bike down, either on a lift, like what I and many had and presently have, and or, inside the back of a pickup, the tie downs get in the way of really cinching down a good cover. Ultraguard makes a travel cover that has multiple straps, buckles, gathering points etc. that really make it snug to the bike. It even has little "slits" in it for possible places to run "some" tie downs through it.

Well, that's perfectly fine if, IF, your tie downs just happen to be placed on the bike and, tie to whatever you're tying to, in just the right spot. But, as in our case, they (all 6 tie downs) were no where near the slits provided so, that makes for a very difficult time to really "seal" up a bike to keep it from the elements/dirt/debris/salt/rain/ etc.

That cover, is by far, the best travel cover made. It's about as thick as a real good sleeping bag. And, it conforms to multiple, normal protrusions like the windshield, handle bars etc. And because of the multiple buckles and cinch points, it really CAN snug up extra tight so there's no possibility "etching" of the paint. This is not a flimsy "throw over" cover just to keep the sun off. This cover means business.

But, if one gets one of these covers, then a good upholsterer is needed to "fit" that cover on your bike, with tie downs in place so that appropriate slits can be inserted and then "Button hole stitched" to keep them from running or un-raveling.

The other problem is, even if you were to get that Ultraguard cover and, have it modified to accept all your tie downs, the problem is, install it and working with it in the confined space(s) between the bike and the side beds, and front. I know because I tried it. Other than an enclosed trailer, it's pretty tough to really seal a bike, especially a large cruiser, i.e. Goldwing, Harley Street or Ultra Glide, Yamaha Venture full dresser and more to the point that there's no possible infiltration of the exterior elements and contaminates. Good luck.
Scott

Fire ups cover looks like a good idea. Why not sew on a fabric tube to connect to an air scoop on the roof by the ladder, to pressurize the cover with clean air?

Larry and the OP,
Here's a picture of the "Utraguard" travel cover I used a few times. I too was concerned about etching the paint while in motion behind the coach. But, I did a bit of research and read many reviews on this cover prior to my purchasing of it. Of all the reports, not one mentioned any etching or rubbing of the paint, on any bike, Goldwing, Harley etc.

So, I purchased one and used it. But, as you'll see in the picture, it fits real well everywhere but the very bottom. And, if I would have taken the time to "re-work" that cover, I could get it to tuck up to the belly of the bike and then it would do a better job of sealing things up.

Larry, you're right, you don't cover them when you're riding them but, as you most likely know, those bikes don't get nearly as dirty when riding them as they do when they're hanging on the back of the coaches. The turbulence back there, along with some rain, makes them seriously ugly. But, the cover did "some" good. It wasn't quite as bad as no cover at all. And, absolutely no paint etching what so ever. Just some thoughts here.
Scott

Covering the bike WAS one of my biggest concerns when I installed the lift. Talked to several and conclusion was this, you don't cover it when you are riding it do you??. Made sense to me. I just washed it and all was fine. Movement of the cover will rub the paint and possible remove the paint if left long enough. Larry

We have a gasser and pull ours on a trailer.

Tim fm ct,
Well Sir, this is a bit of a tough one. You see, in an enclosed trailer, it's not problem because, when you tie it down, the tie downs do not get in the way of a cover because there's no need for a cover INSIDE the trailer.

But, when you tie a bike down, either on a lift, like what I and many had and presently have, and or, inside the back of a pickup, the tie downs get in the way of really cinching down a good cover. Ultraguard makes a travel cover that has multiple straps, buckles, gathering points etc. that really make it snug to the bike. It even has little "slits" in it for possible places to run "some" tie downs through it.

Well, that's perfectly fine if, IF, your tie downs just happen to be placed on the bike and, tie to whatever you're tying to, in just the right spot. But, as in our case, they (all 6 tie downs) were no where near the slits provided so, that makes for a very difficult time to really "seal" up a bike to keep it from the elements/dirt/debris/salt/rain/ etc.

That cover, is by far, the best travel cover made. It's about as thick as a real good sleeping bag. And, it conforms to multiple, normal protrusions like the windshield, handle bars etc. And because of the multiple buckles and cinch points, it really CAN snug up extra tight so there's no possibility "etching" of the paint. This is not a flimsy "throw over" cover just to keep the sun off. This cover means business.

But, if one gets one of these covers, then a good upholsterer is needed to "fit" that cover on your bike, with tie downs in place so that appropriate slits can be inserted and then "Button hole stitched" to keep them from running or un-raveling.

The other problem is, even if you were to get that Ultraguard cover and, have it modified to accept all your tie downs, the problem is, install it and working with it in the confined space(s) between the bike and the side beds, and front. I know because I tried it. Other than an enclosed trailer, it's pretty tough to really seal a bike, especially a large cruiser, i.e. Goldwing, Harley Street or Ultra Glide, Yamaha Venture full dresser and more to the point that there's no possible infiltration of the exterior elements and contaminates. Good luck.
Scott

I'm trying to get suggestions on protecting a motorcycle being towed on the back of a pick up.
This topic is the best I could fine using the search.
How do some of you protect your M/C from the salt etc when towing in the winter?
tim cm ct

B's Bunch wrote:

FIRE UP wrote:

B's Bunch wrote:
I just installed a hydra lift and took a 1, 400 mile trip. Very satisfied. Had to learn to load and unload but other than that never had any issues hauling it along with toeing out 2012 focus. However there are concerns with the install. I think each is differant but doable. The way I installed mine I can install or remove in30 min. Or less. I really like this mount. Larry

Hey Larry,
Is that you Bud? Scott here. How's the Hydralift doing? Got all the "kinks" worked out and get the loading and unloading down? Hope all is well. Still thinking about taking you up on your offer for tours when we get back that way.

MNawman,
If Larry is who I think he is, he's got my old Hydralift. Without a doubt, the Hydralift is by far, the best lift/carrier on the market. I've thoroughly gone over all of them before I purchased and, while Hydralift is pretty proud of their product in terms of price, the quality and type of construction, mechanism, amount of moving parts, strength of moving parts and pivots, design of moving parts, are all superior to any other lift on the market.

When I say they're proud of their product, they are by far, the highest cost too. The last time I checked, a brand new Hydralift, hovers around $4,500, plus or minus. And that does not include tax and shipping. Hydralift, predominantly only ships to a "dealer/installer" of your choice when purchasing new. If you're lucky to find one used, it's up to you to get it to your location.

The durability, quality and assurance of their product is top shelf. Both the Cruiserlift and the Hydralift are powered by an electric motor but, one powers a hydraulic pump and one powers a winch. The dependability of hydraulics now days are outstanding. After all, about 99.99999999% of the jacks/levelers on todays coaches are all hydraulic. Very, very few folks have issues in terms of leaks or problems in the hydraulic side.

I used that Hydralift for over 8,000 miles on our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 C-7 CAT and, never, repeat NEVER, had any issues of any type. That includes handling problems of any type, structural problems of any type, or anything related to that. The primary reason I sold it was because we were a bit over weight and, we wanted a change in toads. So, the Hydralift went bye-bye and we purchased a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Extended Cab.

Now, we still wanted to carry the Honda Goldwing so, the intent was to purchase a "Rampage" lift/carrier for the truck. Well, that's our picture as of now.

As for your choice, if you were to put both lifts side by side, and watch the action of both, I'm pretty sure you'd like the Hydralift over the other. It all depends on just how much you want to spend.

Now, the second part of the equation. What kind of coach, length, engine, etc. do you have to mount this kind of weight on? The Hydralift itself weighs in the neighborhood of 300, plus or minus a few. Most of the "unknowing" will tell you about all kinds of issues you're going to have. Unless they've done it, and drove with it, and had that kind of weight addition back there, I don't put much faith in what many have to say. Larry will give you first and, new experience on just what kind of effects it had/has on his particular coach.

Ours, like stated, is a 36' diesel and it did flawless. I weighed our coach, front and rear prior to the lift install and the weight of the bike, and it removed exactly 100 lbs. off the front end. BIG DEAL!

The ride height sensors compensated for the additional weight and the coach road at the exact same stance fully loaded as it does now, with no lift or bike on it. Larry used the same mounting characteristics and components that I had. Although with a little "sneer" here, Larry's a bit slow on the removal of the lift for rear of the coach service. If I recall, start to finish, I could have that lift off the back in right close to 8 minutes. I'm sure he's got the process down though. LOL.

Anyway, as you can see and read, I'm definitely a fan of the Hydralift. And, I've got experience with both types of lift mechanisms. The Rampage lift utilizes a winch. Without a doubt, the winch system is antiquated and not near as positive as the hydraulic operation is. Your choice.
Scott

Hey Scott yes it is me. Had a great trip to OBX Not one problem with the lift. I removed the foot pegs on the crashbars and clearance issues went away. To the OP This Hydra Lift works as smooth as you could ask for. Distance from the ground from attachment point was my issues on install. HL recommends 22 inches or a little less for the angles to work. Never knew it was there and we towed a 2012 Focus along with it. Works for me. Larry

FIRE UP wrote:

B's Bunch wrote:
I just installed a hydra lift and took a 1, 400 mile trip. Very satisfied. Had to learn to load and unload but other than that never had any issues hauling it along with toeing out 2012 focus. However there are concerns with the install. I think each is differant but doable. The way I installed mine I can install or remove in30 min. Or less. I really like this mount. Larry

Hey Larry,
Is that you Bud? Scott here. How's the Hydralift doing? Got all the "kinks" worked out and get the loading and unloading down? Hope all is well. Still thinking about taking you up on your offer for tours when we get back that way.

MNawman,
If Larry is who I think he is, he's got my old Hydralift. Without a doubt, the Hydralift is by far, the best lift/carrier on the market. I've thoroughly gone over all of them before I purchased and, while Hydralift is pretty proud of their product in terms of price, the quality and type of construction, mechanism, amount of moving parts, strength of moving parts and pivots, design of moving parts, are all superior to any other lift on the market.

When I say they're proud of their product, they are by far, the highest cost too. The last time I checked, a brand new Hydralift, hovers around $4,500, plus or minus. And that does not include tax and shipping. Hydralift, predominantly only ships to a "dealer/installer" of your choice when purchasing new. If you're lucky to find one used, it's up to you to get it to your location.

The durability, quality and assurance of their product is top shelf. Both the Cruiserlift and the Hydralift are powered by an electric motor but, one powers a hydraulic pump and one powers a winch. The dependability of hydraulics now days are outstanding. After all, about 99.99999999% of the jacks/levelers on todays coaches are all hydraulic. Very, very few folks have issues in terms of leaks or problems in the hydraulic side.

I used that Hydralift for over 8,000 miles on our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD with the 330 C-7 CAT and, never, repeat NEVER, had any issues of any type. That includes handling problems of any type, structural problems of any type, or anything related to that. The primary reason I sold it was because we were a bit over weight and, we wanted a change in toads. So, the Hydralift went bye-bye and we purchased a 2011 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4 Extended Cab.

Now, we still wanted to carry the Honda Goldwing so, the intent was to purchase a "Rampage" lift/carrier for the truck. Well, that's our picture as of now.

As for your choice, if you were to put both lifts side by side, and watch the action of both, I'm pretty sure you'd like the Hydralift over the other. It all depends on just how much you want to spend.

Now, the second part of the equation. What kind of coach, length, engine, etc. do you have to mount this kind of weight on? The Hydralift itself weighs in the neighborhood of 300, plus or minus a few. Most of the "unknowing" will tell you about all kinds of issues you're going to have. Unless they've done it, and drove with it, and had that kind of weight addition back there, I don't put much faith in what many have to say. Larry will give you first and, new experience on just what kind of effects it had/has on his particular coach.

Ours, like stated, is a 36' diesel and it did flawless. I weighed our coach, front and rear prior to the lift install and the weight of the bike, and it removed exactly 100 lbs. off the front end. BIG DEAL!

The ride height sensors compensated for the additional weight and the coach road at the exact same stance fully loaded as it does now, with no lift or bike on it. Larry used the same mounting characteristics and components that I had. Although with a little "sneer" here, Larry's a bit slow on the removal of the lift for rear of the coach service. If I recall, start to finish, I could have that lift off the back in right close to 8 minutes. I'm sure he's got the process down though. LOL.

Anyway, as you can see and read, I'm definitely a fan of the Hydralift. And, I've got experience with both types of lift mechanisms. The Rampage lift utilizes a winch. Without a doubt, the winch system is antiquated and not near as positive as the hydraulic operation is. Your choice.
Scott

Hey Scott yes it is me. Had a great trip to OBX Not one problem with the lift. I removed the foot pegs on the crashbars and clearance issues went away. To the OP This Hydra Lift works as smooth as you could ask for. Distance from the ground from attachment point was my issues on install. HL recommends 22 inches or a little less for the angles to work. Never knew it was there and we towed a 2012 Focus along with it. Works for me. Larry