Forum Discussion

mtn_wife_530's avatar
mtn_wife_530
Explorer
Aug 26, 2016

Why did my coach batteries die?

On a recent boondock trip,I started with fully charged coach batteries. The first nigh my CO2 detector goes off.The windows are already open, I shut down the LPG.The next morning,aux batteries are completely dead.I have to use the engine to get enough power to start the gen. Ran it 4hrs,but an hour later they were dead. Charged them again, but hit the cut off switch. Couple hours later, guess what, DEAD! Anyone have any ideas?Please
  • RoyB's avatar
    RoyB
    Explorer II
    It is most likely your 94 model RV is not equipped with a modern smart mode converter/charger unit. Your converter/charger may a unit that is only producing 13.6VDC when you are plugged into shore power or generator and this is the DC voltage that is used to keep your RV batteries charged.

    13.6VDC is known to boil out battery fluids if left ON for long periods of times. One must start a battery maintenance program to at a minimum start checking the battery fluids and not ever let them get drained below the battery core tops.

    When the fluids get below the cores inside the batteries then this allows the cores to start building up crud and eventually creates a short circuit. When that happens it is usually game over for the batteries...

    Unless you just have lots of money and like to keep buying batteries everytime you take your old rig out for trips this is going to continue to happen.

    The batteries is the center function of the 12 Power Distribution Center and one needs to learn all they can on how the battery system works and what to watch for to maintain the great performance. You just can't install new batteries and thats all you do from then on...

    I measure my battery terminals with a hand held multimeter every time I walk around the unit. When a battery is fully charged it will read 12.6-7 Volts DC just sitting there. When I get back from a camping trip I like to read the battery terminals when I shut down everything and then the next morning Ilike to read the terminals again after it sits over night. If they are down to 12.2 or lower after just sitting there in place for 8-10 hours then this is indeed a red flag.

    A multimeter can be picked up at WALMART-LOWES- or any number of auto parts stores for less than $20. Harbor Freight used to give you one free when you made purchases there...

    Then I will engage shore power or generator and read the battery terminals again with my multimeter and it should now be reading 13.6VDC or what ever mode my converter/charger unit is in at the the time. This tells me my charging is working fine and the battery cable path and connections is all connected properly with no tripped DC circuit breaker if equipped or blown in line fuses. When looking around the battery terminals it will be very noticeable to see when they have been boiling out fluids... When they boiling out is actually occurring you may smell something like rotten eggs and your battery case case may also be warm to hot.

    I check my battery fluids about every two weeks now but never find them low any more since I upgraded my converter/charger unit to a modern three stage smart mode charging unit. This almost takes care of your batteries for you...

    My trailer came setup with four 85AH 12V Interstate batteries in 2008 and I lost one right away due to my inferior single mode converter/charger unit. Boiled out the fluids in one and I didn't catch it. Then this battery ended up with a shorted cell inside it and would not hold a charge. I have been using the remaining three 85AH 12V Batteries every since doing just great. These batteries are just failing and need replaced... Pretty good for being eight years old I would say...

    Just things I do here in the battery department on a regular basis with my pride and joy Camper unit.

    I usually don't respond to CLASS A forums comments as all of this is way above my $$$ class. But you did ask "Why did my coach batteries die?"

    Hope some of the comments help...

    Roy Ken
  • If you have a radio, as well as the CO detectors, you will always have SOME draw from your batteries. This is to keep the channel memory intact and the CO detector functioning. There are other things that may also be causing a power draw such as leaving the Inverter/charger/converter on full time, lights in the basement compartments, mirror heat, etc. Check to make sure that all 12 volt items are turned off and you will probably find something that you left in the on position.
  • mtn wife 530 wrote:
    OK,I'll try that. Their only 2 years old and this was only the second dry trip.


    If the batteries check good, try this:
    after re-installing the batteries, leave the positive cable off, mount a amp meter between the positive post and the positive cable and see what the load is. there is either some thing left on providing a load or a high resistance short.
    When you don't have a good meter, mount a 12 volt bulb between the battery and the cable. a bright bulb = a big load. dim light small load.
  • I can handle most mechanical issues, just did the ca!ipers ,but I don't like electrical.Had an electrical fire 30...... years ago
  • My main likes to die but I just disconnect the neg.terminal. This is the first time I've had a problem with the coach batteries
  • I'm currently having battery problems myself. I bought a new Gel Cell battery (Chassis Battery) and it won't stay charged? My son told me that Gel Cell batteries are good but you have to use them a lot or you will have charging problems.
  • OK,I'll try that. Their only 2 years old and this was only the second dry trip.
  • One of your batteries has an internal failure. Pull all your house batteries and clean them and recharge, see which one fails a rapid discharge check.