Window Replacement - looking for source or advice

Photomike wrote:

TyroneandGladys wrote:
?????? check with a fiberglass shop about removing the window and glassing over it?

I really wish you would not have said this. I have a single pane window in the cab over and this was my idea to add to the warmth and to prevent leaks and I had just talked myself out of it...... now I will look more into it :-) I think it is a good idea as really how often do you look out the window when camping plus stops heat in summer and cold in winter.

Sometimes it is the smartest and cheapest solution. Especially when the thing just won't quit leaking no matter what you do.

Buying a old motorhome, especially an orphan where the maker is out of the business will require some ingenuity to replace or repair odd items like non-standard tail light lenses. I own a 2004 Fleetwood Tioga 26Q, I did get electrical schematics that were generic and not very helpful in troubleshooting. Generally the factory customer contact will advise owner to refer any repairs , etc., to their dealer's service department. I imagine that this is typical with most volume-selling RV lines.

Walts is now Star Deck. They are in Corona CA. They do have a bunch of surplus stuff - I have bought a lot there. I also had them remove the carpet from my coach and put in sheet linoleum - I like it much better now... They did a good job for reasonable...

Walt's RV in Pomona Ca. had tons of RV stuff that was old/obsolete and whatever. He sold that business and it moved to Chino I believe. Walt's was a collection of RV stuff that was an adventure to explore.

Has anybody removed the window on their front cap and not replaced it, in other words capped it closed with some sort of fiberglass? Seems costly.

I just thought I would post up the resolution to this problem. Jeff at MotionWindows.com gave me a really good quote (about 50% of others I received). I purchased the window and it looks really good. Window is sealed to the frame with mastic like your car windshield is.
Window was at the correct size per the order - I had to sand out the corners to clear a tiny bit and got it in and sealed. He provides double stick closed cell foam to bind the frame to the coach, and thhen you seal around the perimeter to finish the job.
I used ProFlexRV clear flexible sealant and it worked great so far. No more leaks up front - makes me Happy!

I would recommend this company to anyone looking for a replacement window. They also packed it really well for shipment and it arrived intact. They are located in Vancouver Wa.

Thanks all for your input - I hope this thread helps someone else with a leaking window. It is so hard to find good vendors to work with you. Fleetwood was completely useless as were local rv sales offices. If you have an older RV - you are totally on your own...

Thanks All!
Doug

OK, Time to update this ongoing saga...
Pulled window again and got full measurements. Contacted Duncan RV Parts in Elkhart IN, and also Pelland Ent looking for a replacement.
Sue at Duncan was helpful, but could not find a replacement. She got hold of Fleetwood and they said the window is obsolete, and they have no replacement (Thanks SOOOO much, Fleetwood).
Pelland can make a new window for me, but they quoted a corner radius that is larger than what my current window is - I am afraid that there would be no seal in the corners as I only have about 1/4 to 1/8" overlap with the factory window.

Here are my window and cutout measurements:

Cutout in RV wall:
65.875" wide x 13.00" tall.
The wall thickness is 1.75" all around
The radius cut into the RV look to be 2.5" at all 4 corners

The frame on the window measures (where it fits into the cutout):
65.38" wide x 12.50" tall
The window frame where it mates with the cutout has 3.0" corner radius at all 4 corners

The outside window flange measures:
67.00" x 14.25" (the radius at the outside of the flange looks like 4.00")
The inside window flange measures:
66.94" x 14.12"

Note: the cutout has a smaller corner radius than the window which gives a very small overlap on the outer fascia at the corners. This looks like a potential future leak point as all four corners have only .25" max to .12" min overlap to seal with. Please advise if you think this can be improved on? (Again - Thanks SOOOO mush Fleetwood for the Quality and Workmanship. I am VERY impressed)

Pelland also quoted me about $900 by the time it was shipped to me.

I still need a window - who else can quote me a replacement? I have tried and struck out at the local RV Stealership for Fleetwood - They have not been able to produce a replacement either.

Pelland appears to be a professional company and responded promptly - they just can't make a smaller corner radius than 3.19", and the price with shipping at $900+, and 6-8 weeks to deliver is tough. I have a trip planned for late march and need this done before leaving.
There must be other professionals in the RV window business - I am hoping that all of you can provide a couple of additional contacts?

Sorry for the novel,
Doug

Thanks for the link. My problem is that I have to disassemble the window to get measurements of the rubber channel. I was trying to work thru fleetwood to get the seal in advance. Tearing the window apart to measure the channel, realizing assemble and reinstall it, order channel, and repeat after receiving the new seal really socks as an option. At this point I am looking for a full replacement. Less work and less risk. It is easy to get the window out and another in. I did it already all from inside with no issue.
Ithe looks like I need to do it again to get correct measurements of the cutout and corner radiuses. Pain in Kester but not many good options at this point with no info available.

Note to Fleetwood: I will remember this when looking for my next coach!

Thanks all for your input....
Doug

Chris, try http://uni-grip.com/

Photos would help a lot as far as getting advice here.

Mine is different, no mastic at all. Just a rubber u channel between glass and frame that is now hard. I can shift the glass around now that the rubber is hard and shrunk in the sun. I wish I could seal it with mastic but not designed for that.
Thanks,
Doug