I have just switched my old batwing antenna for a new Jack digital antenna, and I only have one single coax leading from the existing winegard booster, to the jack antenna.I am not getting any tv signal from the Jack antenna, and I am wondering if it may not be getting any power from the booster.My question is, should I be reading a voltage from the coax that is coming out of the winegard booster, going to the Jack antenna.I tested the coax coming out of the booster, and read a zero voltage.If so, could this be a bad booster box?The instructions that came with the Jack antenna said that you could use your existing booster box, or use the one provided with the Jack antenna. But NOT both.Any thoughts??

Good chance you shorted the coax and popped the fuse during installation. There should be voltage on the coax. Pop the wall plate out and see if there is a fuse close by or on the circuit board.

The first check is to see if you have voltage on the roof at at end of the coax. If not, is there a light that comes on when you push the button or slide the switch on the front of that power supply?Did you Batwing work before you replaced it (or I should say, was there voltage)?If it's a fuse it's likely not near the power supply but will be found in the fuse panel along with your other 12V fuses.If you have power to the power supply and you hook up a coax to the correct Ant. port and measure voltage on that cable and find no voltage then you have a bad power supply.

You may (or may not) have bad termnology.. I understand that in some cases the wall plate module really is a booster, This unit is not compatable with the JACK antenna unless the wall module is a Sensar Pro.In most cases the wall unit is only a power supply and should provide near battery voltage to the Jack So will the Sensar Pro wall module.

Post the part number of the wall unit. There are two type. One that only has a push button and sends up 12VDC to power-up a pre-amp that is located in the head of the roof mounted antenna.There is also a model that has the preamp located in the wall panel to use for roof mounted antennas that do not have a preamp installed in their base...I don't have the part number on the tip of my tongue haha...NOTE: just looked up some numbers.. I think the most popular are the WINEGARD RV7012 for the NON-AMPLIFIED WALL PLATE and the WINEGARD RA7296 for the AMPLIFIED WALL PLATE. They look identical from the outsideRoy Ken

Does it look likeThisIf so it has a poly switch in it that will shut down for 2 minutes if there is a short and the Green light wont come on.This PDF may help in trouble shooting the problem. Wineguard power supplyI hooked my Jack up to it and had no problem with it as long as the green light was on.You have to remember with the new signals that are put out now you wont get snowy picture when you are close to the signal, like the old days, just a blank or blue screen, it is all or nothing. I had to point it toward the signal and put my TV on auto scan each time I moved location, it has worked 10 times than my old Bat Wing.Hope This helps.

TV Antenna Booster - Jack Antenna | Good Sam Community

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Jul 28, 2013
wa8yxm wrote:
You may (or may not) have bad termnology..
I understand that in some cases the wall plate module really is a booster, This unit is not compatable with the JACK antenna unless the wall module is a Sensar Pro.

In most cases the wall unit is only a power supply and should provide near battery voltage to the Jack

So will the Sensar Pro wall module.

While frequently called a booster, that's just not the case unless you go back to the early 90's. The wall plate is a power supply and is fully compatible with the Jack. The Sensar Pro is also a power supply with a secondary amplifier but has nothing at all to do with compatibility.
IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Jul 28, 2013
Does it look likeThis
If so it has a poly switch in it that will shut down for 2 minutes if there is a short and the Green light wont come on.

This PDF may help in trouble shooting the problem.

Wineguard power supply

I hooked my Jack up to it and had no problem with it as long as the green light was on.

You have to remember with the new signals that are put out now you wont get snowy picture when you are close to the signal, like the old days, just a blank or blue screen, it is all or nothing.

I had to point it toward the signal and put my TV on auto scan each time I moved location, it has worked 10 times than my old Bat Wing.

Hope This helps.
RoyB
Explorer II
Jul 28, 2013
Post the part number of the wall unit. There are two type. One that only has a push button and sends up 12VDC to power-up a pre-amp that is located in the head of the roof mounted antenna.

There is also a model that has the preamp located in the wall panel to use for roof mounted antennas that do not have a preamp installed in their base...

I don't have the part number on the tip of my tongue haha...

NOTE: just looked up some numbers.. I think the most popular are the WINEGARD RV7012 for the NON-AMPLIFIED WALL PLATE and the WINEGARD RA7296 for the AMPLIFIED WALL PLATE. They look identical from the outside

Roy Ken
wa8yxm
Explorer III
Jul 27, 2013
You may (or may not) have bad termnology..
I understand that in some cases the wall plate module really is a booster, This unit is not compatable with the JACK antenna unless the wall module is a Sensar Pro.

In most cases the wall unit is only a power supply and should provide near battery voltage to the Jack

So will the Sensar Pro wall module.
Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Jul 27, 2013
The first check is to see if you have voltage on the roof at at end of the coax. If not, is there a light that comes on when you push the button or slide the switch on the front of that power supply?
Did you Batwing work before you replaced it (or I should say, was there voltage)?
If it's a fuse it's likely not near the power supply but will be found in the fuse panel along with your other 12V fuses.
If you have power to the power supply and you hook up a coax to the correct Ant. port and measure voltage on that cable and find no voltage then you have a bad power supply.
YC_1
Nomad
Jul 27, 2013
Good chance you shorted the coax and popped the fuse during installation. There should be voltage on the coax. Pop the wall plate out and see if there is a fuse close by or on the circuit board.

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