Assessing an RV

SpotsyRV wrote:
I've heard a lot about the chassis: Ford v. Chevy. I don't know what kind was used for the vehicle I may purchase. I've heard the Ford is, overall, better than the Chevy. Is this accurate? If so, why?

one issue to think about is getting it serviced. when I had my chevy P-30/32 chassis motorhomes, no local Chevy/GM dealer would service it. the local ford dealer serviced my Ford 1999 chassis.
but Ford VS Chevy, I don't like fords older than the new 1999 chassis or chevys with the old P-30/32 chassis re-badged as a workhorse.
bumpy

First check for water and rodent damage. Find either, run. Drivetrains are secondary to damage like that.

As Ford versus Chevy, both have their fans, both have their detractors. Can't really go wrong either way. Fords are more common, and other than the two piece spark plug issue, have been pretty reliable.

If I were buying a 2002 E-450 chassis, after making sure it is in decent condition (if a "C", checking the cabover for hidden leaks, etc.), here is what I'd probably do next:

1: Replace the coils and plugs. If the auto shop doesn't know what a Lisle tool or Time-Serts are, I'll find one that does.

2: Reseal all seams. Best way is the rvroof.com epoxy roof spray. Second best is Rhino's similar offering. Third best is going to town with Eternabond, and dead last is Dicor.

3: Change the oil in the generator with an oil extraction pump, mainly so I get the sludge in the pan as well. Newer Onans use splash lube, so go with synthetic because the oil gets an extreme workout with this mechanism.

4: Have the generator checked out by someone who can monitor voltages and load tests. Likely in an '02, the carb needs work or replacing. The coils may be corroded and may not give good voltage under load.

5: Replacement tires, brakes, and batteries.

6: Engine oil, ATF, grease, radiator, etc. All fluids changed.

7: Sanitize the tanks thoroughly.

8: Have all bedding, carpets, and such steam cleaned/disinfected. Ideally heated to over 160 degrees for a few hours so if there are any bedbugs or whatnot, they will be quite dead.

9: Probably chuck the mattress unless it is an oddball shape (corner queen).

10: Check the RV converter. If a single stage, chuck it and get a multiple stage one that won't roast your jars.

11: Have the vehicle rekeyed, PATS reset and only your keys entered into it. This way, if someone who owned it previously had a key to your rig, it won't open the vehicle, much less start the engine. Chevies, this is easy. Fords require a stop to the dealer for a reprogramming.

There are a lot of good used rigs out there, but it takes some good looking to find the genuine gems versus one that is one stop from the city dump due to water damage.

I've heard a lot about the chassis: Ford v. Chevy. I don't know what kind was used for the vehicle I may purchase. I've heard the Ford is, overall, better than the Chevy. Is this accurate? If so, why?

The things I knowingly ran into on my new to me 2002 were tires, shocks and all batteries had to be replaced. That is a chunk of change. I think that was about $3k plus extra. Depending on chassis (Ford or Chevy) other things should be discussed with your father-in-law.

Just what has been done on recalls or improvements. Example, I was told the fridge was updated for fire prevention. When I contacted the MFG, after purchase. It needed another update! It was free but had I not pursued the issue I would not have known. I did know thanks to rv.net it could be a possible fire hazard.

The one thing I spent good money on was steering stabilizers. Just to get the MH down the road the way I wanted to drive it. That is just a fwiw.

Look at PPL for what you are signing up to pay and what it is worth at this time. The memories using it are priceless.

not only check the payback but what the payoff is and what it will take to get a loan at a better interest rate, assuming that the current interest rate is high.
bumpy

First you need know what the total amount of the payback will be. As said in another post you should be looking at something less than 20K on a 1998.

Based on my experience purchasing 3 used units in the last 10 years, plan on spending 3-4k on new tires and a few repairs that will be most likely needed. I knew this going in on each unit and bought them at a price that reflected those conditions.

Do a very good search for any water damage/stains that may be present. Look in every closet, drawers, around showers and tubs, under the sinks and along the inside headliner and vents.

Hope this helps.

Michael

michelb wrote:
I'd be very careful taking over the payments on any vehicle because I do believe that many owners are quickly upside-down so it really depends on the terms.

As far as making a decision, you really need to confirm the model, length, mileage and condition. As a very gross ballpark, I think you can easily get a mid-late 90s gasser for about $15-20k. You can also easily put $10k of repairs in a mh with common issues which is why condition is so important.

my 1999 Chieftain which was winnies top of the line gasser at the time which I just traded in was listed at $35,000. obviously the dealer would take a bunch less I would guess $27 or so.
bumpy

Thanks to all for the good guidance. The seller is completely trustworthy: my father-in-law. I believe he and his wife have owned the MH for fewer than five years. They've used maybe 10-15 times in that span. All trips under 500 miles.

One other issue I need to take into consideration is that it's been parked outside all this time. Lot's of trees all around so no major sun issues, but weather, all the same.

As for the roof, is a fiberglass roof a good or bad thing?

Can anyone recommend a reputable MH inspector in the central VA area? I know there's a CampingWorld in Winchester, and a MH dealer just north of Richmond, both of which are accessible. Would these be good places to start?

I'd be very careful taking over the payments on any vehicle because I do believe that many owners are quickly upside-down so it really depends on the terms.

As far as making a decision, you really need to confirm the model, length, mileage and condition. As a very gross ballpark, I think you can easily get a mid-late 90s gasser for about $15-20k. You can also easily put $10k of repairs in a mh with common issues which is why condition is so important.

how much is owed vs the actual value of the unit? are you assuming a loan at a high interest rate? it will have a fiberglass roof which many/most others of that vintage won't.
bumpy