NADA

google the rv see what there really selling for. nada is just a very ruff idea.

The dealer is going to try to make as much profit as possible,
Start with a low offer and negotiate the price.

The 'starter kit' will probably be lower quality items to make you think you're getting a good deal.

If you are new to RV's, hire an independant RV Tech to inspect the unit you are seriously considering. Or, if you know someone who is familiar with RV's, maybe they can check it for you.
The cost for an inspection will be well spent.

Do not rely on the dealers inspection. And, get everything in writing.
Also, do not put money down until or sign any agreements until the unit is up to your standards.
Many dealers will tell you to bring the unit back after you make the purchase and they will fix any problems.
The problems should be fixed before you buy.

If possible, take your time. Don't rush into a purchase. Ask lots of questions on the forum. Someone will have an answer.

Also if you are looking at a dealership, consider all the fees they will be adding, documentation of $399, PDI $500, and even dealer prep of between $700 and $1000. I even saw one large dealer in Ashland Va that had a transportation cost line on a used trailer they took in trade. With a private party sale, all those supposed cost magically *go away*.
Your real cost is likely a lot more than you think.

X2 they,ll add fees the only fee you should be looking at is the out the door price.then you neg off that.

Negotiate, negotiate, negotiate. Get the numbers where you want them and feel free to walk away if it's not happening.

The problem with NADA is that most people add in items as options when in fact a lot of those items are original equipment.
If you can find an original brochure online or invoice, for the the unit your considering, you can then get a better price idea from NADA or any other pricing source. But it will still only be a general guideline as to the true value.

Anything is only worth what someone will pay for it.
Good luck.

My general guide was to go to rvtrader and find what the lowest price in the country was. In my case my local dealer was tied with two others for the lowest price. I then found a site that claimed to list dealer invoice for the big manufacturers, according to that the price offered was 10% above invoice which seems reasonable given what the dealers costs are to carry a unit. My final out the door price was about $1,5000 over the list price plus tax but that included about $6-700 in work and equipment to my tow vehicle so really the miscellaneous fees were in the $8-900 range.

You should be able to compare prices online for the model you are thinking of purchasing, as stated above NADA is not all that realistic in terms of current market conditions. Always negotiate as dealer has added a hefty profit margin to the price, most are willing to haggle on the price, particularly this time of year when most RVing is winding down for the long winter ahead and having the unit sit on their lot another 4-6 months is not advantageous. They all throw in a starter kit, for the most part they are substandard items that will need replacing more than likely after their first use, at least that is what we did. Good luck!!!

fyrflie wrote:
The problem with NADA is that most people add in items as options when in fact a lot of those items are original equipment.
If you can find an original brochure online or invoice, for the the unit your considering, you can then get a better price idea from NADA or any other pricing source. But it will still only be a general guideline as to the true value.

THIS!^^^^^
Often they come with forced "options" packages, like a/c, oven, awning, stereo. Things that nearly all RVs have. You don't add value for that stuff.
An upgraded item would be added value, like a 15k a/c or a 2nd bedroom a/c or a slide topper.

Do you have a trade in? If not, the dealer will sell it cheaper. They always price to allow for trade in so you think you're getting a good price for your old one.